Omega T17 Restoration - Local or Through Swatch Group?

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Hi All,

Newcomer to the forums, and I have reviewed the guidelines to make sure this post doesn't violate the rules but I can't be sure I am not breaking convention so please let me know if I have posted in the wrong place or otherwise incorrectly. I recently returned home to Chicago from Russia where my grandfather gave me this T17 that he received as a graduation present in 1940 from his mother, who purchase it in Tehran. I believe, based on the serial/model, it was manufactured between 1930 and 1936. I have read every single thread on these forums about the T17 and I understand that other people have had similar experiences with receiving this watch passed down through family in eastern europe, but I wanted to post again to see if there are any updates or new insights since the last post like this. Though the watch was working well for the first 24 hours or so I looked over it, something has broken in the mechanism after the first winding. I took it apart and inspected every piece but couldn't pinpoint the issue exactly--I know it's not the mainspring, which was in perfect working order, and all the gears are intact and functional. The jewels seem fine, as do the lower parts. Something is off with the ("balance") hairspring and maybe also the crown area (where the tightening screw secures the jacket). Also has a cracked crystal and some normal cosmetic wear issues. Images of the watch pre-disassembly below:



I would like to have the watch reassembled to functionality, to replace/upgrade the crystal, and to make only minor cosmetic improvements to the face and the bracelet. My question is whether anyone on these forums has experience using the S.G./Omega restoration procedure in Switzerland (based on their FAQ and a conversation I had with their customer service) in terms of ultimate price points, timing, and customer service? Money is not an issue and not super sensitive to timing, but I would very strongly prefer not to have it botched for sentimental reasons. I am located in Chicago and to date haven't really been able to identify a master around here I like and seems like would have the wherewithal to complete something like this very reliably (not to say there isn't one, I just don't know how to know for sure and haven't felt a great vibe anywhere). Though this isn't really relevant, one consideration I'll raise is that I'm a younger woman and I have found several masters I've approached about this somewhat dismissive of me/the watch and unwilling to talk details. I would welcome any recommendations anyone might have for a friendly, talented master that specializes in vintage Omega (can be anywhere in the US if they accepted shipped jobs)? I would even be willing to pay premium to a private enthusiast, it's just a matter of feeling comfortable that it will get done with care and attention.

I also considered making a huge long lesson of it and buying donor movements and trying to put it back together myself because of the excellent research and parts manual excerpts available here on the forums--but I am not especially skilled, and there is a real dearth of assembly guides for this particular tank geometry and movement (though a couple of threads about mechanism quirks come close, they don't show any specific part guidelines that I would need to feel even remotely confident I could get it done). If I botch a job like that and buy a donor movement, would a master be able to help me get it over the finish line, or would that be verboten?

Apologies for the very basic questions--I am in love with these forums and the real love for Omega that is clear here on the vintage side of things, and I welcome thoughts, suggestions, and even criticisms (if it helps me restore the watch). Thanks all!

--Lally
 
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Greetings @samizdat and welcome to the forum! What a lovely watch you have.

Generally speaking, many of the vintage watch collectors on this forum would encourage you to seek out a talented independent watchmaker who specializes in vintage watches, rather than send your heirloom off to Omega. I believe one of our venerable forum members @Larry S resides in your area and will hopefully visit this thread and offer you a recommendation as well as who to avoid.

In the meantime, I'll point you to some other T17 examples that have made an appearance on the forums:
https://omegaforums.net/threads/any-t17-omegas-out-there.47483/
https://omegaforums.net/threads/an-omega-cal-t17-tank-has-arrived.65659/
https://omegaforums.net/threads/omega-ads-catalog-sheets-for-t17-20f-caliber-watches.64350/
https://omegaforums.net/threads/omega-t17.83401/
https://omegaforums.net/threads/omega-ck730-tank.70810/
 
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I would second the recommendation to start with Archer and I also commend the OP on one hell of a good first post.
 
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I am so grateful for these responses!! I will do exactly as you suggest here. I can't believe there's such a great community of folks around these gorgeous timepiece. Thank you!
 
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Greetings @samizdat and welcome to the forum! What a lovely watch you have.

Generally speaking, many of the vintage watch collectors on this forum would encourage you to seek out a talented independent watchmaker who specializes in vintage watches, rather than send your heirloom off to Omega. I believe one of our venerable forum members @Larry S resides in your area and will hopefully visit this thread and offer you a recommendation as well as who to avoid.

In the meantime, I'll point you to some other T17 examples that have made an appearance on the forums:
https://omegaforums.net/threads/any-t17-omegas-out-there.47483/
https://omegaforums.net/threads/an-omega-cal-t17-tank-has-arrived.65659/
https://omegaforums.net/threads/omega-ads-catalog-sheets-for-t17-20f-caliber-watches.64350/
https://omegaforums.net/threads/omega-t17.83401/
https://omegaforums.net/threads/omega-ck730-tank.70810/
Done…
 
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Wouldn’t Swatch Group want to send an oldie like that to Switzerland for repair?
 
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Wouldn’t Swatch Group want to send an oldie like that to Switzerland for repair?

yes, confirmed by the fact that they specifically told me they would send it to switzerland for repair
 
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yes, confirmed by the fact that they specifically told me they would send it to switzerland for repair
Their restoration program starts at $1500 and they would make it like new. I get the sense that OP doesn't want that. Why I shared my friend's link.
 
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you have to buy that one here very quickly as a donor movement.... they do not come up often. good luck ! https://vintagewatchspecialist.com/products/omega-t17-movement-hands-and-dial

Again: Is that too cheap for a donor movement with all parts, any Watchmaker needs to bring back your beloved watch ? This forum is widely read. So don't expect that deal to last long. After that, you can decide which Watchmaker is best for you.... Do not expect any Watchmaker to have parts like the balance cpl. lust laying around.....
 
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I advertised a complete, running T17 movement for sale, on this MB, about 2 years ago. Original dial and hands, (but no case dammit). Never got a nibble! Now I don’t even know where I put it! 🙁
 
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I advertised a complete, running T17 movement for sale, on this MB, about 2 years ago. Original dial and hands, (but no case dammit). Never got a nibble! Now I don’t even know where I put it! 🙁
Crazy how different the serial number is on the one you listed too.
Canuck's: 8589420
OP's: 8128391

Omega was pumping out some watches even back than (even if it took a few years).
 
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Their restoration program starts at $1500 and they would make it like new. I get the sense that OP doesn't want that. Why I shared my friend's link.
I got the sense it would end up being more w things like eg new crystal?
 
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I advertised a complete, running T17 movement for sale, on this MB, about 2 years ago. Original dial and hands, (but no case dammit). Never got a nibble! Now I don’t even know where I put it! 🙁
I would have bought haha!
 
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Though the watch was working well for the first 24 hours or so I looked over it, something has broken in the mechanism after the first winding. I took it apart and inspected every piece but couldn't pinpoint the issue exactly--I know it's not the mainspring, which was in perfect working order, and all the gears are intact and functional. The jewels seem fine, as do the lower parts. Something is off with the ("balance") hairspring and maybe also the crown area (where the tightening screw secures the jacket). Also has a cracked crystal and some normal cosmetic wear issues. Images of the watch pre-disassembly below:

If I botch a job like that and buy a donor movement, would a master be able to help me get it over the finish line, or would that be verboten?
If the watch was working well for 24 hours, then it doesn't sound like you need a donor movement (which will probably have worn out parts as well) unless you damaged something when stripping it. The hairspring issue may very well be recoverable, it depends on what the damage is.

I think that the best is to get it to a watchmaker even though it is in parts. It may cost more as the watch arrives disassembled but leave it to the watchmaker to advise and most of us won't take on a small "get it over the line" job so, expect to pay for a full service. Ask the watchmaker for advice on how to send it as you don't want all the parts rattling around and damaging each other.

Good luck and I'm sure it will be a lovely reliable watch at the end. If you can get Al (@Archer) to look at it, that would be a bonus.

Cheers, Chris