Hello, and please tell me about my watch!

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There is no doubt however that 1) that watch has not been serviced with an amplitude that low and the Hyde range of plus/gain in different positions, 2) the dial you say is refinished.

Obviously it’s your choice but those two alone would be more than enough to prevent me keeping it.
 
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There is no doubt however that 1) that watch has not been serviced with an amplitude that low and the Hyde range of plus/gain in different positions, 2) the dial you say is refinished.

Obviously it’s your choice but those two alone would be more than enough to prevent me keeping it.

The dial refinishing doesn't bother me, because of the reason I bought the watch. If I could have bought a mew 36/37 yellow gold watch I would have.

The performance of the watch does bother me.

What should the amplitude be on a watch of this age?
 
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Wishing it was a chronometer is not going to make it happen!
 
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Wishing it was a chronometer is not going to make it happen!

Where have I said I wish it were?

I've got a number of chronometers and they aren't my most accurate watches.

In fact chronometer rating can sometimes be a curse more than a blessing, because you can have a brand new watch losing 4 seconds per day and the manufacturer just shrugs and says "it's within COSC, no intervention required". No chronometer rating and they tend to listen when I say I want any error to be forward.
 
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What should the amplitude be on a watch of this age?

Omega specs require that 24 hours after fully winding this movement, that the amplitude in any position should not fall below 190 degrees.

Your initial numbers were below that, presumably fully wound. Even if they have come up to 200 or so, it's unlikely they would stay above 190 after 24 hours of running.

Also, if you are checking this on a timing machine, make sure the lift angle is set correctly - should be 49 degrees. If you left the lift angle set to the default, which is normally 52 degrees, then the amplitude readings will appear higher than they actually are.
 
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Omega specs require that 24 hours after fully winding this movement, that the amplitude in any position should not fall below 190 degrees.

Your initial numbers were below that, presumably fully wound. Even if they have come up to 200 or so, it's unlikely they would stay above 190 after 24 hours of running.

Also, if you are checking this on a timing machine, make sure the lift angle is set correctly - should be 49 degrees. If you left the lift angle set to the default, which is normally 52 degrees, then the amplitude readings will appear higher than they actually are.

I have the timegrapher at 49.

The amplitude has improved actually and is now at 230 dial up. In other positions it can drop to 170 however.

I am inclined to agree that it either hasn't been serviced or otherwise needs replacement parts.
 
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I have the timegrapher at 49.

The amplitude has improved actually and is now at 230 dial up. In other positions it can drop to 170 however.

I am inclined to agree that it either hasn't been serviced or otherwise needs replacement parts.

Well out of spec, as is the positional variation. I'm sure there are people who service and sell who do a good job, but for me there is an inherent conflict of interest involved that can lead to very poor decisions being made with regards to whether a given part "needs" to be replaced or not. The person doing the service is the seller, so they know that every penny spent during the service comes straight off their bottom line...
 
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Interesting read.

One thing that after reading throughout the entire thread seems apparent is that you (@Vizard ) seem to be looking against all your better sense for a reason to keep the watch. Or a reason to justify its flaws.

Simply put, you don’t need a reason. It’s your money, if you like it so much that you’re struggling to see if it performs better or if there could be a reason for the mis- qualification of chronometer rating for that movement etc then you like it enough to keep it.

The watch is not going to change, it is what it is and all ( extremely knowledgeable) advice has made clear what it is. So the only thing that can change here is your opinion of it . We can’t help with that .
 
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Well out of spec, as is the positional variation. I'm sure there are people who service and sell who do a good job, but for me there is an inherent conflict of interest involved that can lead to very poor decisions being made with regards to whether a given part "needs" to be replaced or not. The person doing the service is the seller, so they know that every penny spent during the service comes straight off their bottom line...

I agree. I also think that many customers will just be happy to have a pretty watch on which the hands go round and round. So what if it's 2 minutes per day fast or slow? By the time that it actually stops it is out of warranty.
 
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Interesting read.

One thing that after reading throughout the entire thread seems apparent is that you (@Vizard ) seem to be looking against all your better sense for a reason to keep the watch. Or a reason to justify its flaws.

Simply put, you don’t need a reason. It’s your money, if you like it so much that you’re struggling to see if it performs better or if there could be a reason for the mis- qualification of chronometer rating for that movement etc then you like it enough to keep it.

The watch is not going to change, it is what it is and all ( extremely knowledgeable) advice has made clear what it is. So the only thing that can change here is your opinion of it . We can’t help with that .

Deep. 😉

In fact I am broadly indifferent about whether I keep or return the watch.

If I decide that it needs to go back, I have a chap to call on Monday about a manual wind Patek Calatrava that has just come back from service at the manufacturer. Unless Patek has now become a shower of charlatans, it will hopefully be in good shape.
 
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Deep. 😉

In fact I am broadly indifferent about whether I keep or return the watch.

If I decide that it needs to go back, I have a chap to call on Monday about a manual wind Patek Calatrava that has just come back from service at the manufacturer. Unless Patek has now become a shower of charlatans, it will hopefully be in good shape.
Cool.
 
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I think Erich has come up with the most likely solution (my emphasis in bold):

"I am always happy to stand corrected if a deal turns out better than feared... the movement finally presents very well - congrats, it is a nice watch.

BTW I have seen 3 watches with this weird combination of cal. 283 and a chronometer labeled dial. But I am convinced these did not leave the factory as chronometers. Maybe they have used up surplus chronometer dials towards the end of the 30 Rg chronometer production around 1952/53. The dial on the OP´s watch is characteristic for that late period..."


Remember, at that time, England (and the rest of Great Britain) were still suffering from supply shortages after WWII and many things were either re-purposed or held together with string and hope. Rationing in England didn't end until the middle of 1954.

I would also note that to obtain a chronometer certification for a Swiss manufactured movement, a series of movements had to be submitted to an authorised Swiss testing entity (Bureaux officiels de contrôle de la marche des montres) and they would issue the chronometer certification, not the watch case manufacturer.

PS: And if there is anyone on the planet more qualified than @mac_omega to advise on Omega Chronometers I'd like to know who it is.
 
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It's a bit like buying a "Turbo" badge to add to the back of your non-turbo car.

😁
I once had a car dealer try to sell me a ‘Quattro’ with the same pedigree as your ‘turbo’ car
 
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PS: And if there is anyone on the planet more qualified than @mac_omega to advise on Omega Chronometers I'd like to know who it is.

As they say, "He wrote the book!"

😁
 
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Hi all,

Yesterday I have come back late from a short journey to Germany (visited a terrific exhibition of Vermeer paintings in Dresden) and so I was too tired to read through all the long thread.
This morning I took the time to do so and I was a bit amused that it took that long that somebody came across these older threads where we already discussed similar watches.
Well to make it short:
There have appeared 4-5 watches (if I recon correctly) after the release of my book which show the same "pattern" - cal. 283 and chronometre on the dial. All of them were found in England and those which were looked up in the microfiche of Omega archive share serials in a small range of numbers but cannot be found in the archives due to damage/loss of a part of the microfiche film. I wanted to research these watches more closely in the Omega Museum but due to the pandemic situation I have to postpone this for some time...

Meanwhile I tend to set up a new category of chronometres the "UK chronometres". All share "late" three line dials and of similar style (not much variation found) and all but one have Dennison cases of the same shape. The movements don´t show special finish like the Rg-chronometres but this is not necessary to make a watch a chronometre as we all know. IMO it is possible that a small batch of movements were chronometre rated and sold to UK to be cased and sold as chronometres. There have been special chronometres for France, Spain and Italy - so why not for the UK?
I hope to find proof for this theory in the Omega archives once I get the chance to go there once again.

OP´s watch could well be one of these UK chronometres but - what a pity - has a restored dial. So we don´t know if it started out with a chronometre labeled dial or if a "regular" 283 Dennison cased watch was pimped up to make it a chronometre.
Edited:
 
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Hi all,

Yesterday I have come back late from a short journey to Germany (visited a terrific exhibition of Vermeer paintings in Dresden) and so I was too tired to read through all the long thread.
This morning I took the time to do so and I was a bit amused that it took that long that somebody came across these older threads where we already discussed similar watches.
Well to make it short:
There have appeared 4-5 watches (if I recon correctly) after the release of my book which show the same "pattern" - cal. 283 and chronometre on the dial. All of them were found in England and those which were looked up in the microfiche of Omega archive share serials in a small range of numbers but cannot be found in the archives due to damage/loss of a part of the microfiche film. I wanted to research these watches more closely in the Omega Museum but due to the pandemic situation I have to postpone this for some time...

Meanwhile I tend to set up a new category of chronometres the "UK chronometres". All share "late" three line dials and of similar style (not much variation found) and all but one have Dennison cases of the same shape. The movements don´t show special finish like the Rg-chronometres but this is not necessary to make a watch a chronometre as we all know. IMO it is possible that a small batch of movements were chronometre rated and sold to UK to be cased and sold as chronometres. There have been special chronometres for France, Spain and Italy - so why not for the UK?
I hope to find proof for this theory in the Omega archives once I get the chance to go there once again.

OP´s watch could well be one of these UK chronometres but - what a pity - has a restored dial. So we don´t know if it started out with a chronometre labeled dial or if a "regular" 283 Dennison cased watch was pimped up to make it a chronometre.

Thank you for this. I hope Germany was enjoyable.

As I have said, I don't mind that the dial is restored due to the reason for buying the watch. I bought it as a smart watch, not a historically correct piece with attendant patina.

The fact that it COULD be correct would be good enough to me.

BUT it still runs poorly by the standards of every other watch I own and, according the the guys here, Cal. 283s in general when they are running properly. The advert said that it runs at an "arrow straight -10 per day". Perhaps it meant the parabola of an arrow.

This presents the same problem that I hate with new watches. You buy a new watch, wear it, and find that it's running outside spec. You take it back to the retailer who, with a cheery smile, says that he will send it back to the factory to be sorted. Cue two months without your new watch.

If I get the dealer to sort it out, the same thing will happen.

So, much as I like the little thing, I cannot see any option other than returning it.
Edited:
 
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OP, if you find yourself in need of a reputable dealer of vintage watches, I would recommend James Kibble at Kibble Watches in London. I have done business with him personally and he has a good reputation. I have seen him recommended by other members of OF as well. I purchased this 1959 Omega Geneve from him last year. Beautiful watch, original (other than the crystal and the band, both of which were disclosed up front as replacements), and it came serviced with a one year warranty. I have been very satisfied with this purchase.
 
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............

So, much as I like the little thing, I cannot see any option other than returning it.

I think that's the best option.

As you get deeper into the vintage watch world, you start to understand originality, appearance etc and if you kept this one I think you would soon get to wince every time you looked at it.

I talk from experience.
 
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I think that's the best option.

As you get deeper into the vintage watch world, you start to understand originality, appearance etc and if you kept this one I think you would soon get to wince every time you looked at it.

I talk from experience.

I doubt that I will get into the vintage watch world. I used to have classic cars and gave all that up.

Also, I have reached an age where I need to look really smart. I am personally quite patinated enough, without my watch also looking aged.
 
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I doubt that I will get into the vintage watch world. I used to have classic cars and gave all that up.

Also, I have reached an age where I need to look really smart. I am personally quite patinated enough, without my watch also looking aged.

I have also reached the age where I need to look really smart, and although I've also become "patinated", it doesn't really show 😉.



and not all vintage watches are patinated or "aged", this example from one of our members @MMMD.



I believe he has many more of similar quality and age.

However, for the last two years I haven't worn a suit, or a dress shirt or anything other than "house clothes", and my daily watch (not that time means anything ATM) has been a titanium Citizen.

We have only 4 days, 1 hour, 49 minutes until the longest lockdown in COVID history is lifted, and then I may get out a nice shirt and suit up.

Or I might just change into a fresh pair of tracky daks.