Best thread ever.

 

Great thread and very helpful.

One problem I worry about is I heard in the 1960s onwards the best quality Taiwan Omega and Rolex fakes were so good that manufacturer experts could only tell real from fake from the metal quality under microscope, as the better ones had copied the whole watch so well.

That may be old urban legend. Would be good to know if this is nonsense.

 

A urban myth for vintage 1960s

Plausible for modern Rolex nowadays, it’s getting to the stage a watchmaker has to strip the watch down
This might help
http://nickhacko.blogspot.com/2012/05/tough-times-ahead-for-collectors-of.html

 

Great thread. A wealth of knowledge here. Thank you for sharing!

 

Very good insight!

 

Just a further two cents worth after reading many threads in which new collectors seeking guidance are sometimes advised to look at the 'Private Sales' section of this Forum.

All well and good but It’s not entirely straightforward, even there. Posters/sellers on OF always give good descriptions and excellent photos, particularly of the face, case and movement. You can probably rule out the risk of frankenwatches, redials (unless stated) or worse.

As a lower end (financially) collector with a liking for 50s & 60s watches I’ve never spent a great deal but even buying here, adopt the same mindset as you might when you buy on eBay or elsewhere.

In recent years, I’ve bought twice. The first was a 65 year old bumper. It looked as good when I got it as it had in the photos, it ran well and was just what I’d hoped it would be. I had it serviced and cleaned and my repairer confirmed everything that the seller had asserted. It is still running well and I remain a very satisfied customer.

The second purchase was comparatively inexpensive. The seller advertised that the watch hadn’t been serviced recently and that a hand had been changed. He sent the original removed hand with the watch.

It ran beautifully initially but then stopped. My watch repairer advised on parts that were need for this 63 year old timepiece. I sourced original spares from Finland, Poland and Holland. My repairer repaired, restored and serviced it and it now runs perfectly.

I have absolutely no criticism of the seller and I’m certainly not complaining. It is just what can happen when one buys an old watch either on OF or elsewhere. But I spent more on the parts and servicing than I spent on the original purchase. The upside is that I found the parts and that the watch could be, and was, repaired.

 

Great rundown with lots of info. Thank you very much for taking the time to do this. You really do have to take your time and go through the different aspects of the watch to ensure you don’t get duped. Although at some point I find getting too picky can prevent you from getting a piece you might otherwise thoroughly enjoy, even if it is not perfectly untouched. I think you should buy what you love and make sure you are not getting scammed but after that go for it and enjoy!

 

One last thought then I’m out... I think everyone should ask themselves if the watch they are buying is really going to be collectible and increase in value. A fair amount of us probably buy mostly things we want to wear and I know I personally usually don’t buy something planning to sell it and so “value” or being 100% untouched original is really not critical down the line. The big issue is knowing (being aware of) what you are getting and whether or not the price is fair.

 

Wonderful information. Thank you.
I love an even, heavy patina. To me, it adds character to a watch and makes it absolutely unique. Most of my watches at this time are pocket all over 100 years old and I love the occasional crack wondering how it may have arrived on the dial. I rotate wearing both pocket and wrist. I have one pocket NOS Hamilton that is 110 years old and virtually brand new. I never wear it. Not because I’m worried about putting the first miles on it, but because it has no “character” to me. Each watch has its own story, and I like that.
Thanks again for this wonderful group.

 

This is fantastic! Thanks for taking the time to put together such a thorough guide.

 

A great reminder for all, novice and experienced collectors alike. Well done, mate.

 

I am new to the forum and vintage watches as well. Thanks so much to the OP (and everyone else's contributions), such a great resource for someone overwhelmed like myself!

 

Stick around, learn from Troels (ConElPueblo) and others and before you know it, you'll be broke, divorced and out of work.

 

Haaaaa! Great minds think alike!

 

I am new to the Forum and was stuck doing all the research on my own. Stumbling onto this goldmine has been wonderful as I can now go out and look on eBay/chrono24/antiqueshops with much more confidence. I can also slowly drive my partner crazy with all the vintage watch terminology!! I'm sure she finds it charming ...

Thank you ConElPueblo for generously taking the time to put this together

 

Thanks for the tidbits, I owe you some timbits.

 

Can I ask if this went through re-dial or retouch? I notice that this dial only “swiss” and not “swiss made”. Most of the examples I find on the internet is “swiss made”.

 

I am still learning like a lot of people in this quest. One of the things that seems consistent throughout the different eras on these is the script logos and so on. For example, on this one pictured the word “Seamaster” and even “Omega” are very heavy compared to solidly original ones you see. Also I have learned to look at the word Seamaster very very carefully and when you look at those original ones there’s a giveaway in the shape of the letter “m”. I am glad you inquired about the word being only “Swiss” Rather than Swiss maid because I myself and looking for an answer in that regard. Most of the ones that I see which are a few that say just Swiss always appear to have some other indication of redialing. I bought a semester recently and solid gold because I couldn’t resist it from the early 50s and it does not have Swiss or Swiss maid on the bottom of the dial. Someone out there In non Omega Forum land said they have seen ones like this but I kind of doubt it myself. Sometimes these things just get scrubbed off the dial when improperly cleaned. Do you make a form is in valuable for this type of information because there are collectors and dealers on here with beaucoup years of experience looking at these things.

 

Thanks for all the info, certainly makes trawling through ebay a lot more fun...
Ebay: fake, redial, fake, wtf is that?, uh nice no wait fake.....

 

Great and very informative thread! Thank you for taking the time to do this, it means a lot for us newbies!