I want to know about my Fathers Omega he passed to me

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Thankyou @R3D9 for summing the whole 'dibs' concept up so well, and thankyou @eugeneandresson for your thoughts on the matter... (similar to my own). It seems to be a thoroughly honarable arrangement which encourages regular 'log ins' so as not to miss anything wonderful that may come up. Very clear in my mind now and I agree with @UncleBuck with regard to it being included with the stickies.馃憤

The only thing that I can see being an issue is with regard to higher value transactions (in excess of say...$10,000) where a vendor may want to select a buyer based upon the practicalities of a 'face to face' meeting, bank payment and handover???馃槙 I have followed recent sales on this forum in which the person advertising the Watch has expressed a preference of location or payment method as part of the sales post.

Thankyou.
Jonathan.
Edited:
 
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yes, interesting watch. mvmt. looks ok. case is ok. bezel=fine. dial not easy to judge with these pics, but i would buy it. hands look good as well. i have the correct case back as a spare. yours is blank, but we need better pictures to see, why. does not look like it was machined blank. the band is crap. it is a nice watch to wear; not an investment piece. and that has it`s own charm..... price wise the back is the deal breaker. these backs go for $ 5000 plus in the moment. and you will not find them on ebay, i guess..... therefore as is i`d pay $ 12.000. service it, clean it up, get the Omega factory Excerpt and auction it in Geneva ( only in Geneva...) , if you want to make money. kind regards. achim

Would it not be a frankenwatch then ?
 
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Would it not be a frankenwatch then ?

Perhaps. But a very expensive and desirable one.
 
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Would it not be a frankenwatch then ?
Frankenwatch generally refers to a watch that's been created via a collection of mismatched parts (I.e. A Speedy with an incorrect caseback incorrect sub-dial hands, maybe even an incorrect dial, etc). If all parts are period correct (but weren't originally on the watch), I wouldn't call that a frankenwatch. That's just a successful project watch.
 
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Frankenwatch generally refers to a watch that's been created via a collection of mismatched parts (I.e. A Speedy with an incorrect caseback incorrect sub-dial hands, maybe even an incorrect dial, etc). If all parts are period correct (but weren't originally on the watch), I wouldn't call that a frankenwatch. That's just a successful project watch.

So as long as you gather together parts that could have been together, it is as collectible and valuable as if it left Bienne like that, even though it never did ? But if you get one or several parts wrong it's a frankenwatch, and not desirable and less valuable?
 
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So as long as you gather together parts that could have been together, it is as collectible and valuable as if it left Bienne like that, even though it never did ? But if you get one or several parts wrong it's a frankenwatch, and not desirable and less valuable?
If the parts aren't all period-correct, of course it's not as valuable as one that is. That's pretty common sense. Personally, I wouldn't care about a watch that was originally purchased without a correct bezel, handset, etc as long as when I'm buying it, it's been sorted. If you narrow the funnel to only NOS safe queens, your potential watch universe shrinks to a tiny fraction of what it would be. If all parts are authentic and period correct, does it really matter how they got there? In my case, the answer is likely "no."

Further, these were purpose-built tool watches. Documentation is not as extensive as something like a Patek. If someone told you all the parts were the same as the ones that left the factory (together), how would you validate that? You can't. So what does it matter?
 
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If the parts aren't all period-correct, of course it's not as valuable as one that is. That's pretty common sense. Personally, I wouldn't care about a watch that was originally purchased without a correct bezel, handset, etc as long as when I'm buying it, it's been sorted. If you narrow the funnel to only NOS safe queens, your potential watch universe shrinks to a tiny fraction of what it would be. If all parts are authentic and period correct, does it really matter how they got there? In my case, the answer is likely "no."

Further, these were purpose-built tool watches. Documentation is not as extensive as something like a Patek. If someone told you all the parts were the same as the ones that left the factory (together), how would you validate that? You can't. So what does it matter?

Interesting discussion, could be worth a thread in its own right. When you mean period-correct though, do you mean something correct for this specific watch model or something that comes from that same period even if incorrect for the watch?
Sounds like you mean the former, and not the latter.
I find there's one interesting question, what should one consider a watch with parts that are incorrect for the model, but "period-correct" in the sense they belong historically to the same period as the watch?
What if they are such that it appears they were most likely swapped during service in the early days of the life of the watch?
 
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If the parts aren't all period-correct, of course it's not as valuable as one that is. That's pretty common sense. Personally, I wouldn't care about a watch that was originally purchased without a correct bezel, handset, etc as long as when I'm buying it, it's been sorted. If you narrow the funnel to only NOS safe queens, your potential watch universe shrinks to a tiny fraction of what it would be. If all parts are authentic and period correct, does it really matter how they got there? In my case, the answer is likely "no."

Further, these were purpose-built tool watches. Documentation is not as extensive as something like a Patek. If someone told you all the parts were the same as the ones that left the factory (together), how would you validate that? You can't. So what does it matter?

Well I'm just asking. It is rather interesting view, that a watch that has lost major parts, like bezel or caseback, or case and movement I presume can be "reconstructed" and get back it's value as if it was original.
 
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Well I'm just asking. It is rather interesting view, that a watch that has lost major parts, like bezel or caseback, or case and movement I presume can be "reconstructed" and get back it's value as if it was original.
Ask yourself why people are willing to pay $5k for a bezel when you can buy a similar one from Omega for $250.
 
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Just because one is knowledgable doesn't make one immune to being an arse!!

Some people really need to get out more, the fresh air will do you good!!
 
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Interesting discussion, could be worth a thread in its own right. When you mean period-correct though, do you mean something correct for this specific watch model or something that comes from that same period even if incorrect for the watch?
Sounds like you mean the former, and not the latter.
I find there's one interesting question, what should one consider a watch with parts that are incorrect for the model, but "period-correct" in the sense they belong historically to the same period as the watch?
What if they are such that it appears they were most likely swapped during service in the early days of the life of the watch?
Correct, I meant everything that would have originally been outfitted on that specific reference. In some cases there's overlap (stick sub hands being kosher on all late ref 2998s versus the sword hands on -3 and priors being a perfect example).
 
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Hi @Darcy, welcome and thanks for sharing your watch with us.

I always want to explain this place to people when they arrive with a post like yours. We have a mix of people from all over the world and the only thing we all have in common is a love (addiction to?) of watches. Some of the biggest collectors; most knowledgeable experts; and, true watch nerds assemble here to discuss things that we can't talk about in the real world without someone trying to institutionalise us. The result is an incredibly deep knowledge base but there can also be a sense of trepidation.

Think of this as a Concours or a group of art experts. Many will not even offer an opinion without first getting some confirmation that the watch being asked about is kosher. When those opinions do start to roll in, we can get fixated on the small things (because the small things are important to us).

So, let me say this: congratulations on acquiring what is a lovely, rare watch. That parts of the watch have been replaced during its life is not the end of the world. That is has the wrong back is only a problem to the avid collector who needs (not wants, we actually NEED) it to be original. But that's us. Imagine taking your grandfather's pride and joy of a car to a Concours to ask the experts opinion of it and the experts get hung up on the fact that it has the wrong filler cap; wrong bumper; and, seats that came from a model 10 years after the car was made. That's what we have here.

While we're on with the car analogy, you wouldn't take a car that's been sitting in a barn for 20 years and start driving it around. You'd make sure that all the important things were working, lubricated and safe to operate first. Same goes for watches. You need to have this serviced before you wear it or you risk damaging the movement.

Please love and enjoy your watch ... and forgive some of our comments where the inner nerd shows too much.
 
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Ask yourself why people are willing to pay $5k for a bezel when you can buy a similar one from Omega for $250.

Because they are stupid ? Is that what you mean? Or is it that the 5000 dollar bezel will make their watch worth 6000 more? I have no clue what you are implying
 
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Because they are stupid ? Is that what you mean? Or is it that the 5000 dollar bezel will make their watch worth 6000 more? I have no clue what you are implying
Maybe a bit of both.
 
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I think the dibs concept here on the OF is fairly simple to explain... it comes down to the notion of courtesy.

If someone calls dibs on an item, the courteous thing for the owner to do would be to make note of said dibs.

Should the owner decide to sell the watch at some point they would: a) determine the price they want to realize on the piece and then b) connect with the individial who called dibs and offer them the opportunity to purchase the watch at the price the seller wishes to realize on their sale.

At that point, the individual who called dibs has two options: a) buy the watch at the asking price or b) decline.

The dibs-caller is allowed to counter, but at that point, the seller is under no moral/social obligation to negotiate and can list the watch for their price with an entirely clear conscience.

This is all based upon the notion of courtesy. The owner is under no actual obligation to sell to someone who happened to be the first person to call dibs on an internet forum.

It comes down to the "do unto others" concept.

The majority of established members of this forum are good, honest collectors who sought out this place to learn about watches and share their passion with other like-minded individuals.

Most aren't here to pick up a watch for a steal so they can flip it for a quick buck... they're looking to pay a fair price for a watch from a seller they can trust.

So, to summarize, no, you don't need to follow through on dibs if you don't want to, but it would be the courteous thing to do 馃槈

Much more eloquently put then me, and spot on Sir 馃憤馃憤馃憤. Still called dibs first regardless of my troglodytic command of the English language 馃榿 Now if only courteousness was a virtue of the present age...
 
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D Darcy
LOL! It's took me 2 1/2 minutes to figure out how to post a picture
The time on the wristwatch when it was photographed was not 4:40.