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Early Polerouter Sub Discussion

C
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LouS LouS
Here we go: that watch is authentic. Mess with it as little as possible. If you want to keep it, polish the crystal, service the movement, DONT TOUCH THE LUME. Make sure whatever watchmaker works on it understands this. If you want to sell it, don't do anything at all. What you regard as improvements are likely to be regarded as heinous mutilations by the vintage watch crowd,
Thanks for your advice. I am not interested in selling. It has my fathers name engraved on the back case and it has sentimental value. Id just like to wear it, unless folks think that is a bad idea.

Could you explain the basics of operation? I'm afraid that I will do something incorrectly.

When my dad got it out of his drawer (I was with him) it began working almost immediately. I wound the lower crown clockwise a few times as I was exploring the function of it--I wasn't sure which crown controlled the bezel. I then pulled the crown out and set it, being careful to only move it forward. Is that necessary?

I've read something about not setting time on automatics when the time is near midnight, but that seemed to refer to models with date. What cautions should I take on this movement?

Another thing I noticed--the time seems fairly accurate compared to the digital clock in my phone, but the point of the minute hand doesn't align with the index mark at the moment the second hand passes 12. Instead, the minute passes the index about thirty seconds past. Is that evidence of an issue with the movement?

When trying to set the time, the second hand didn't stop. This made it a little difficult to set the time accurately. Advice? I believe the crown was all the way out, but I didn't want to pull too hard less I force it.

Lastly, is there an authority on Universal watches who could service this that somebody on here recommends? I live in the US near Chicago. Thanks
Edited:
 
LouS
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Good for you for keeping it - quite right. Top crown controls the bezel, bottom to wind and set, exactly as you have done. No worries about the midnight thing on this model. The hand alignment issue is of no consequence. The second hand will not stop when setting time on this watch - that's called "hacking," and this movement does not hack. Lastly I have no specific watchmaker recs but perhaps our Chicago members might chime in.
 
C
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LouS LouS
Good for you for keeping it - quite right. Top crown controls the bezel, bottom to wind and set, exactly as you have done. No worries about the midnight thing on this model. The hand alignment issue is of no consequence. The second hand will not stop when setting time on this watch - that's called "hacking," and this movement does not hack. Lastly I have no specific watchmaker recs but perhaps our Chicago members might chime in.
LouS-- that is very useful info. As for winding the crown--is there a min or max number of winds that I should make on the crown--especially now when I'm first starting the watch up out of hibernation? Can I over wind? Some generic instructions for automatics say something like "30 winds" on the crown.
 
styggpyggeno1
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First I would like to commend you for your first post. Too many come here and do not bother to read up on the subject before asking. You took your time and found out what you had - then you asked advice. Like it.

An automatic movement can never be overwound. It has a "release" that makes it impossible.

If the watch has been put away for a very long time, have it (the movement) serviced before using it/winding it. The oils and grease has dried - and there will be grinding of material at, for instance, the bearings. I would recommend you to leave the watch unwound from now until you find a reputable watchmaker specializing in vintage watches. LouS is right in advicing about this - the watchmakers orders shall be - DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING - except service of movement, new seals (keeping water out) and polish of the crystal. The winding you have done - do not worry about it - just stop and let it run out.

You have a watch many of us covet. Take care of it. It is also worth a good sum. I know you are not selling it but anyway - beware of suggestions and ask advice here if anyone approach you with bids - and you are considering them.

Best of luck and congratulations on a wonderful watch.
Edited:
 
C
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styggpyggeno1 styggpyggeno1
First I would like to commend you for your first post. Too many come here and do not bother to read up on the subject before asking. You took your time and found out what you had - then you asked advice. Like it.

An automatic movement can never be overwound. It has a "release" that makes it impossible.

If the watch has been put away for a very long time, have it (the movement) serviced before using it/winding it. The oils and grease has dried - and there will be grinding of material at, for instance, the bearings. I would recommend you to leave the watch unwound from now until you find a reputable watchmaker specializing in vintage watches. LouS is right in advicing about this - the watchmakers orders shall be - DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING - except service of movement, new seals (keeping water out) and polish of the crystal. The winding you have done - do not worry about it - just stop and let it run out.

You have a watch many of us covet. Take care of it. It is also worth a good sum. I know you are not selling it but anyway - beware of suggestions and ask advice here if anyone approach you with bids - and you are considering them.

Best of luck and congratulations on a wonderful watch.
Thank you very much for the word of caution about the movement. I didn't even think to consider that winding could've damaged it, but that makes perfect sense. We took it out of storage yesterday afternoon and I probably wound the crown three times, then a few more this morning. I wore it yesterday and this morning. Naturally now I'm worrying about possible damage, but I'll try not to 😀

It's funny to have happened upon this rarity. My father had no idea that it was a collector's piece. He was a professional oceanographer and just used this as his diving watch for some time--he purchased it used around 1970. I mentioned that I was looking to buy a watch and he kindly offered it. In thirty years I've never seen him wear it, so it's been dormant for a while. I'm glad I found the corner of he internet where the polerouter experts convene!

A quick Internet search has brought up what looks to be a highly regarded antique watch repair shop on Chicago called Father Time. I'll give them a call to ask about servicing. Until then, the watch will sit in my drawer. Thank you again for your advice!
 
Dre
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Just another "Aussie" from WoK

http://watchesofknightsbridge.com/view-auction-catalogues.html

Lot 396

original.jpg
 
akajack
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Just wanted to drop by and give a big "thank you" for the education on Polerouter Subs. Saved me some embarrassment and dollars!
 
LaurentBxl
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IMG_2217.JPG


Here is a picture of mine for the record. It is a first generation. The case is pristine, very well finished, crowns are identical to the Tiffany one mentioned in a post, Micky Mouse did picture the top triangle on the rotating bezel, Genève shows no space, SWISS is entirely visible, the small lume dots are still there even if not very visible on this pictures, hands and dial show the same patina, the back has no engraving whatsoever, just the 2 reference and model numbers.

I do believe it is a nice one, i thank very much everyone on this forum who educated me on this model.

Nice weekend!
 
Diabolik
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I just got fed up of waiting for one to come along ... and got this 😀

IMG_5089.JPG
 
Mazoue
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Another "Australian" Polerouter Sub up for auction in the UK at William George by the looks of it.
PolerouterSub.jpg
 
LaurentBxl
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Mazoue Mazoue
Another "Australian" Polerouter Sub up for auction in the UK at William George by the looks of it.
PolerouterSub.jpg
Very likely, it has all the signs, crowns, the case with black spots, the space in Geneve, the swiss not entirely visible, hands looking new ...
Honestly there is so much debate about quality controls on the second version and so many fakes like this one that i decided to only get the first generation that is a lot less prone to fakes....
There is also a private sale at Chrono24 that looks odd with only Universal Geneve on the dial...
Edited:
 
LaurentBxl
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I'm not sure what to think of that one. The case looks OK to me, it does show a good finish, no black spots, lugs look fine too. The back is heavily polished, no serial number. Dial looks ok too, patina looks coherent between the hands and the dial, there is a lot of debate about Swiss not being entirely visible on gen 2... The crowns look wrong to me, at least the bottom one, it is too big and look like a replacement. The top one I don't know, it could be original as on some the top crown is bigger than the bottom one. The movement does not look very clean, but it does not look as bad as on the fakes we have seen....
 
jordn
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aap aapalileo
I'm surprised this seller will sell this watch. I've never seen Sassella sell something dubious before, right @jordn ?
No dealer is impervious to selling dubious watches unfortunately. I know most of us here have relegated this one to be a counterfeit watch, but the greater watch community often disagrees. I contacted an auction house that was selling one, and they flat out told me that I was wrong... (shrug)
This particular example has survived pretty well, but you can tell that the case is chrome plated along with all of the other signs.
 
LaurentBxl
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Again, this one does not show all the obvious signs of a fake. The hands do not look new, patina on dial and hands look ok, and I don't know how you can say that the case is chrome plated... I would not buy it because of the crowns and polished back and all the doubts this watch will always raise, but this does not look like an Australian fake to me...
 
jordn
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LaurentBxl LaurentBxl
Again, this one does not show all the obvious signs of a fake. The hands do not look new, patina on dial and hands look ok, and I don't know how you can say that the case is chrome plated... I would not buy it because of the crowns and polished back and all the doubts this watch will always raise, but this does not look like an Australian fake to me...
It's fairly easy to tell by the way the metal reflects the light that a case has been treated with chrome. It is only conjecture until I see the watch in person, but it is an educated one. And the dial definitely does not look right
 
Diabolik
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fully support the above and add that it has had a lume job ...
 
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