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Big Triangle thoughts? Franken or not?

JimInOz
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B Barnz
We’ll have fun boys. Thanks for sharing your knowledge so freely. I’m sure your responses will encourage others to ask questions about watches they don’t think are genuine.

thanks to redpcar for the only useful suggestion. It seems there is one person here who will offer more than empty baseless opinion.
Why would I want to come back for more of this abuse? Grow up!

I'm under the influence of Guinness at the moment, so forgive me if I don't get it all right.

In your original post, you came across (to me) as someone who knew a bit about this model, and you noted various points that indicated that this watch (in your opinion) was authentic, but had minor issues.

The members on this forum have no interest in denigrating you, and simply point out in their usually blunt way, the issues with your watch.

Some of the replies have been brutal, but I'm sure none are intended in spite, and some have been helpful.

You may feel that you've blundered into an "old gentleman's club" and you've been offended by the angry rustling of the Times, and a few gruff "harrumphs", but once you get to know the members, you understand their particular idiosyncrasies and either tolerate them, or even set up a rapport with them.

If you can take this on the chin, and hang around, I'm sure you'll learn a lot more than you know now.

Cheers
Jim
 
B
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JimInOz JimInOz
The members on this forum have no interest in denigrating you, and simply point out in their usually blunt way, the issues with your watch.
 
Passover
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B Barnz
thanks to redpcar for the only useful suggestion. It seems there is one person here who will offer more than empty baseless opinion.

Thats not true: Many of the members who did post here have a yearlong experience with vintage (SM 300) watches.
This is the base they have for their opinions. This includes the online sources that where mentioned by @redpcar +

https://www.omegaseamaster300.com/
 
B
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Cheers Jim

for you all…
I expect an attempt to explain will seem like I am trying to justify my mistake, which I freely admit. After all the title of my post is clear that I was concerned exactly about this.
Also, my pre reading before purchase did include both the links that have been shared. I found manuals online for other 1960s Seamasters. I had also read another piece about bezels and the different fonts for different years. I won’t bore you by posting it as I’m sure you all know that too.

The photos I was sent, in hindsight did not show the detail I should have demanded.
the movement appeared genuine (but the serial number was hidden by the position of the rotor.) I looked for but could not see the stubbies on the images provided. In hindsight they are too grainy and the curve of the glass obscures them. The 6 and 9 did have a gap. The crown was a naiad but I thought that was in keeping with an earlier BT model. And of course the back did not contain the spelling errors that I should check for. The hands, to my untrained eye, were correct sword hands and the second hand didn’t have a circle or other obvious difference. I did wonder if the tip was a bit long but also found that was an acceptable variation.

The photos I posted here were taken by a local watchmaker (who claims to be omega certified) I will ask further of course.

As I have already said, I was simply looking for a 1968 seamaster, not for a rare collectable example so I was content to accept one which may have had replacement parts that reduced the historical value. (Try to resist the need to mock this statement)

I saw this one on Chrono24 and yes I believed the reassurances about buyer protection requiring dealers to be authenticated, their dedicated team working hard to ensure authenticity etc.
I will try to return it but I don’t fancy my chances!

it’s easy to see the obvious mistakes afterward.

Yes this was to be my first second hand omega (I am old enough to have purchased one new 20 years ago and another since)

I did not profess to be all knowledgeable, I simply said I had done some research.

Glad to have provided some cannon fodder - maybe I will hang around and wait for something useful to be said. After all I appreciate my watches at least enough to want something complementary in my collection and see the progression of seamasters over the years.
Barnz
 
JimInOz
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While your first post may have been less than successful in garnering the responses you may have expected, it was a great deal better than the occasional "I got this Omega watch, how much is it worth" drive by shots.

So, welcome to the club.
There's an empty Chesterfield next to old Fothergill-Smythe in the South alcove, settle in and don't hesitate to ask questions or contribute when you want to.
 
JwRosenthal
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Thank you @JimInOz and @redpcar for being kind to our new member, and let’s start this again, Welcome to OF @Barnz

If you step back and reread the posts, most were commentary directed at the watch, not at you- and all were being cheeky. It doesn’t excuse the lack of tact, but we get a lot of “drive-by” posts from people looking to unload a turd here or wanting a free estimate service before they post it on eBay and never return.
SM300’s are a minefield and no matter how much research you do, it’s dangerous going into a transaction with this much money on the line without experienced eyes. Best advise we give everyone new is ask here before you buy.
Sorry you got burned on this one but I hope it doesn’t sour you against vintage or OF, this is really a wonderful group of people- some just like to jab and jibe which can feel unwelcome when you don’t know the landscape.

Stick around and read much and get into the conversations. This is a great hobby and the path can actually be far more gratifying than the goal.

As said above (in varying degree of snark), try to get a refund- this was clearly an older cobbled watch with fake parts that was meant to deceive, anyone who is a dealer or “expert” would have clearly known that. They should be held accountable.
 
Tad
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Did you mentioned that you had purchased this via Chrono24? I would raise a case with them immediately. Their site states that ‘In the rare instance that the watch is counterfeit, you will receive your money back’. In future feel free to drop a post on the site before your are considering a purchase.
 
Shabbaz
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Did you bought it from a professional dealer in Europe and do you live in Europe?
 
Puma_135o
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Shabbaz Shabbaz
Did you bought it from a professional dealer in Europe and do you live in Europe?

He said that he bought on Chrono24, as far as i can read.
 
Shabbaz
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Puma_135o Puma_135o
He said that he bought on Chrono24, as far as i can read.
Yes. But chrono is just a marketplace where private and professional dealers sell watches.

Anyway, here's the chrono communication about authenticity and refunds
 
Screenshot_20211112-143716_Chrome.jpg
Dan S
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I don't follow these prices too carefully, but if this watch was sold as an authentic military SM300, then I assume the price was somewhere in the neighborhood of $30k-$50k USD and the actual item is worth virtually nothing. Given the amount of money involved, it seems to me that one would want to pursue every avenue for a refund, including involving the authorities.
 
Shabbaz
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And here is some more. It only applies for professional dealers
 
Screenshot_20211112-143855_Chrome.jpg
aggie
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After all, everyone is trying to help you! You passed your batism of fire, you found it rough, but the main commentators here are very good guys indeed ! As being a newbie here, a philistine in watches and a woman (!!!! not many on this forum) I found everyone very friendly AND I am now quite fond of watches. So much to learn, so little time! Haha! So, welcome on board!
Edited:
 
Puma_135o
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Shabbaz Shabbaz
Yes. But chrono is just a marketplace where private and professional dealers sell watches.

You're right. I always don't pay attention to private sellers on CH24 for the reasons you're pointing out later. And I assumed that the OP did the same.
 
Shabbaz
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Puma_135o Puma_135o
You're right. I always don't pay attention to private sellers on CH24 for the reasons you're pointing out later. And I assumed that the OP did the same.
Yes. You have to be careful out there. Although I'm a private seller on chrono. And I think the watches I sold there were quite good and priced well. Nowadays I sell less and more here on OF.
 
bgrisso
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if you buy from a professional dealer on C24 you have 14 day return window for any reason, no questions asked. (Not the case with private sellers).
 
gemini4
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In conducting the most basic pre purchase due diligence, how is it possible that the OP (or his advisors) did not notice that this watch contains a caliber 562 movement. This movement is not only incorrect BUT contains a date wheel?????
 
Puma_135o
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gemini4 gemini4
In conducting the most basic pre purchase due diligence, how is it possible that the OP (or his advisors) did not notice that this watch contains a caliber 562 movement. This movement is not only incorrect BUT contains a date wheel?????

Damn, you're right! Maybe because it was reversed, it seemed a 552 to me!
 
ConElPueblo
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bgrisso bgrisso
if you buy from a professional dealer on C24 you have 14 day return window for any reason, no questions asked. (Not the case with private sellers).

While that is one avenue to explore, the right thing to do would be to destroy this completely as it is a counterfeit - if this is possible within Chrono24 rules. I seem to remember that this is the case on eBay.
 
TexOmega
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B Barnz
Cheers Jim

for you all…
I expect an attempt to explain will seem like I am trying to justify my mistake, which I freely admit. After all the title of my post is clear that I was concerned exactly about this.
Also, my pre reading before purchase did include both the links that have been shared. I found manuals online for other 1960s Seamasters. I had also read another piece about bezels and the different fonts for different years. I won’t bore you by posting it as I’m sure you all know that too.

The photos I was sent, in hindsight did not show the detail I should have demanded.
the movement appeared genuine (but the serial number was hidden by the position of the rotor.) I looked for but could not see the stubbies on the images provided. In hindsight they are too grainy and the curve of the glass obscures them. The 6 and 9 did have a gap. The crown was a naiad but I thought that was in keeping with an earlier BT model. And of course the back did not contain the spelling errors that I should check for. The hands, to my untrained eye, were correct sword hands and the second hand didn’t have a circle or other obvious difference. I did wonder if the tip was a bit long but also found that was an acceptable variation.

The photos I posted here were taken by a local watchmaker (who claims to be omega certified) I will ask further of course.

As I have already said, I was simply looking for a 1968 seamaster, not for a rare collectable example so I was content to accept one which may have had replacement parts that reduced the historical value. (Try to resist the need to mock this statement)

I saw this one on Chrono24 and yes I believed the reassurances about buyer protection requiring dealers to be authenticated, their dedicated team working hard to ensure authenticity etc.
I will try to return it but I don’t fancy my chances!

it’s easy to see the obvious mistakes afterward.

Yes this was to be my first second hand omega (I am old enough to have purchased one new 20 years ago and another since)

I did not profess to be all knowledgeable, I simply said I had done some research.

Glad to have provided some cannon fodder - maybe I will hang around and wait for something useful to be said. After all I appreciate my watches at least enough to want something complementary in my collection and see the progression of seamasters over the years.
Barnz


But this example is NOT a 1968 Seamaster, but you are correct, not a collectible, for sure.
 
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