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Barnz
·Hi
I have recently acquired this Big triangle military Seamaster. I have been looking for a '68 SM for some time and own several others. I didn't purchase as a valuable piece but as one that has aged as much as me (and still has life and style (haha). Like me it has seen some action and needs some work! I accept my watches should be worn and need regular service.
The authentic things about this are .. military marking on case back, fixed lugs, non-screw down crown, 20,...,... movement (dates to early 60s). My omega specialist locally thinks the glass face is too loose (possible replaced with the wrong size?) and that has let some water in. Entirely serviceable however. They confirm the bezel, movement, case and hands are authentic. Dial may have been re-finished??
I have researched numeric fonts, hand shapes, long tipped second hand and can seem to make the case for authenticity.
Thoughts on how much work makes it non-authentic? How little to do to retain value if authentic?
I have recently acquired this Big triangle military Seamaster. I have been looking for a '68 SM for some time and own several others. I didn't purchase as a valuable piece but as one that has aged as much as me (and still has life and style (haha). Like me it has seen some action and needs some work! I accept my watches should be worn and need regular service.
The authentic things about this are .. military marking on case back, fixed lugs, non-screw down crown, 20,...,... movement (dates to early 60s). My omega specialist locally thinks the glass face is too loose (possible replaced with the wrong size?) and that has let some water in. Entirely serviceable however. They confirm the bezel, movement, case and hands are authentic. Dial may have been re-finished??
I have researched numeric fonts, hand shapes, long tipped second hand and can seem to make the case for authenticity.
Thoughts on how much work makes it non-authentic? How little to do to retain value if authentic?
