Are omega (swatch group) struggling?

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To be fair, for the prices they charge, Rolex does offer some impressively thin watches for what they are. A GMT diver and automatic chronograph at 12mm thick is pretty cool. I'd like to see Omega refine their case dimensions as their prices rise. I'd rather they spend revenue on the R&D required for that instead of making their own in-house version of COSC.
 
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I think it's more than thickness. Admittedly, I'm very partial to vintage watches and I have a tiny (15cm) wrist, but if I look at the current Rolex catalog, there are at least two models that I would love to own: the 34mm OP and the 36mm Explorer. I don't see anything comparable in Omega's offerings. There are some 34mm and 36mm Constellations but the modern Constellation design is, IMHO, uggggly. Closest is the new 34mm Aqua Terra, but I much prefer the design of the larger version.

It's a bit sad because Omega is by far my favorite brand. (I own 7 vintage Omegas, but no more than 2 of any other brand.) Yet if someone gave me $10K that I had to spend on a modern Omega watch, I honestly would not be able to buy one that I'd actually wear.

100% wholeheartedly agree with all of this.
 
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To me, a lot of it is how Omega watches are proportioned. The 39.5mm PO is a good example. It's about 14mm thick which isn't too bad if the watch was 42mm but at 40 it makes it hockey puck. The 41mm AT at 13.5 is at the upper limits of thickness but the 38mm AT at 12.3mm thick needs to be closer to 11mm.

I never see anyone complain about the first gen PO, the Speedmaster Pro, or the prior versions of the Seamaster 300M Pro. All of those watches had the proportions spot on.
 
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I think this watch had the potential to be awesome, if their was no fauxtina and the bracelet was fully brushed. My biggest gripe is the fauxtina. If it had regular lume I'd purchase one in a heartbeat. And as others have said it should be thinner. No reason for it to be 13.9 thick. Could have easily been 12-13 thick.

I'm more a collector of vintage Omega, but I have to respectfully disagree that Omega has lost its way with its current designs. Of the three "modern" watches that I own, this is one of my favorites. It's a beautiful watch, certainly not that thick or heavy (strapped on a Tudor hockey puck lately?), not at all flashy and I think that the fauxtina is rather nicely done. I like the innovation of the sandwich dial, the traditional aluminum bezel that has been hardened (more innovation), the bracelet is excellent and the accuracy is astonishingly good. What's not to like?
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. Your heritage Seamaster, beautiful as it is, is 13.9 mm thick, while the standard Diver is 13.6 mm thick. The current Rolex Submariner 124060 is 12-12.5 mm thick (Rolex don't say and sources vary) and the original Seamaster Pro's from the 90's and 00's were 11.5 mm thick.

The crystal on the heritage is domed, and sits higher than the SMPs crystal. Despite being taller on paper it wears less chunky.

Rolex uses completely flat crystals with very little above bezel rise. I can't speak to the 6 series actual thickness and I hope somebody with some calipers and a 6 series chimes in, but the 5 series (date) is 13mm tall with a flat crystal. I don't recall height between the 5 series and 6 series being a discussed issue. Whether that is because they have essentially the same height or because when you are comparing Rolexes to Rolexes height isn't worth talking about ( 😎 ).
(EDIT: as far as I can tell the five and six series have essentially the same height at about 12.3-12.5mm including the crystal).

While I absolutely agree that the dressy aquaterra should be shorter than 13 mm, it's worth pointing out that if the Heritage had a comparably flat Crystal to the Submariner it would be very, very similar to a 5 series in height.

This isn't really a criticism of rolex's flat crystals, there isn't anything wrong with them. However, domed crystals give a different visual look and absolutely recall the vintage style. Vs the original SM300 @14.2-14.5mm tall @300M water resistance I'd say the heritage is proportioned incredibly well. (the shorter 165.024 had only 200M water resistance)
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The crystal on the heritage is domed, and sits higher than the SMPs crystal. Despite being taller on paper it wears less chunky.

Rolex uses completely flat crystals with very little above bezel rise. I can't speak to the 6 series actual thickness and I hope somebody with some calipers and a 6 series chimes in, but the 5 series (date) is 13mm tall with a flat crystal. I don't recall height between the 5 series and 6 series being a discussed issue. Whether that is because they have essentially the same height or because when you are comparing Rolexes to Rolexes height isn't worth talking about ( 😎 ).

While I absolutely agree that the dressy aquaterra should be shorter than 13 mm, it's worth pointing out that if the Heritage had a comparably flat Crystal to the Submariner it would be very, very similar to a 5 series in height.

This isn't really a criticism of rolex's flat crystals, there isn't anything wrong with them. However, don't crystals give a different visual look and absolutely recall the vintage style. Vs the original SM300 @14.2-14.5mm tall @300M water resistance I'd say the heritage is proportioned incredibly well. (the shorter 165.024 had only 200M water resistance)

I agree with all of this. Perhaps even more to the point is this: try on a 300 Heritage before you conclude that it's too thick, too heavy, too whatever. The case diameter is 41mm, with a relativley thin bezel, and a lug to lug of 50mm. That's a well proportioned watch. Yes, it's 13.9 mm thick, but the Speedmaster Professional is 13.2 mm thick and its proportions, as one of my OF colleagues says, makes it wear "like a dinner plate." Would I like it if the Heritage was thinner? Sure. But here's a photo of it next to my 36mm Ranchero. It's larger, but far from being gigantic. It's every bit as comfortable to wear as the Ranchero which, in my opinion, has one of the best wearing cases that Omega has ever made. .
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1. Why do we need to compare Omega to Rolex all the time? Omega is entry level, just ask Kevin.

2. Why is the special editions and variation in Omegas production bad? Too hard to choose?
 
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hen hen
2. Why is the special editions and variation in Omegas production bad? Too hard to choose?

Of course, if Omega did this it would bring out the " where are all the Limited editions!?!" Crowd and the toxic "Omega is trying to be just like Rolex and by doing away with their limited editions has lost their brand identity" posts
 
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I think it's more comparing Omega to the price bracket they are nudging into. I personally would like them to refine their designs more if they are going to charge more money. They are incredible watches with incredible movements and they deserve to be in a premium price bracket, but as you hike the pricing exponentially more and more, you have to start giving the customer more and more. I think most would agree that in Omega's case, that should be realized in the form of slimming down their movements and cases.

Edit: I wouldn't even be opposed to more price increases across the board next year if they came with the introduction of two new, ultra-thin movement series designed to replace the 8800 and 8900 and all their variants.
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I think it's more comparing Omega to the price bracket they are nudging into. I personally would like them to refine their designs more if they are going to charge more money. They are incredible watches with incredible movements and they deserve to be in a premium price bracket, but as you hike the pricing exponentially more and more, you have to start giving the customer more and more. I think most would agree that in Omega's case, that should be realized in the form of slimming down their movements and cases.

Slimming down cases, sure. But absolute thickness is a Fool's narrative. Maximizing thinness requires not just case dimensions but crunching and limiting bezel design and Crystal dome, both things that add to brand individuality and unique attractive looks.

As far as what Omega is currently offering to customers regardless of reality, the average watch person thinks the coaxial escapement is truly milk of the Gods. In terms of unique brand identity that isn't a bad thing.
 
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Sure and that's why I very purposefully use the word refinement. I love Omega's design language. I like to hold my modern AT next to my 166.032 sometimes and look at all the enduring similarities in the Seamaster line. I certainly don't want them to change what makes the Seamaster a Seamaster, or a Speedy a Speedy. But there's definitely room for refinement and improvement across the board. Nips and tucks rather than complete overhaul really.

One thought I've had for a while is, why not make all De Ville's have manual wind movements so that line can truly just be a classic, thin dress watch offering? How about removing GMT movements from the already bulky PO sub-line and instead making the SMP 300M your GMT platform?
 
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hen hen
1. Why do we need to compare Omega to Rolex all the time? Omega is entry level, just ask Kevin.

2. Why is the special editions and variation in Omegas production bad? Too hard to choose?
1. Ehhh Tudors Are entry level, but Omega is mid-tier. I might get a lot of hate but Invicta Reserves are entry level Swiss lololol.

Either way I prefer simple watches, I think Richard Millie and Jacob & co are overkill on the wrist
 
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How about removing GMT movements from the already bulky PO sub-line and instead making the SMP 300M your GMT platform?

Especially on this point I strongly agree. It doesn't make any sense to me to have a GMT function on a watch with 600 M of water resistance. That is a seriously dedicated dive watch and the addition of a GMT function is nonsensical.

It would make more sense to work with the aquaterra, but that would compete with the world timer... even just keeping the planet ocean as the design, which is very classic Omega, but reducing the water resistance, would make a lot of sense.
 
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You can just ignore the GMT function and it isn't compulsory to use every meter of water resistance, indeed you might go all Darlek and say "resistance is futile!"


it's ok to have complications the you seldom or even never use!
 
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The crystal on the heritage is domed, and sits higher than the SMPs crystal. Despite being taller on paper it wears less chunky.

Rolex uses completely flat crystals with very little above bezel rise. I can't speak to the 6 series actual thickness and I hope somebody with some calipers and a 6 series chimes in, but the 5 series (date) is 13mm tall with a flat crystal. I don't recall height between the 5 series and 6 series being a discussed issue. Whether that is because they have essentially the same height or because when you are comparing Rolexes to Rolexes height isn't worth talking about ( 😎 ).
(EDIT: as far as I can tell the five and six series have essentially the same height at about 12.3-12.5mm including the crystal).

This is a fair point I hadn't considered, the dome height would make the figures I quoted slightly misleading. I am still of the opinion the overall point holds true, Omega has a thickness issue, but it is probably not quite as significant as the numbers suggest. Whichever way you hold the calipers, many Omegas today are chunkier than the equivalent Omegas of 10-20 years ago. I would still like to see that change, personally.

hen hen
Why do we need to compare Omega to Rolex all the time?

When I did it a page ago, it was because Rolex are Omega's closest competitor and they have a number of similar models. Availability not withstanding, most people looking at a Seamaster Diver will have at some point considered a Submariner, so the specifications of each are quite relevant. To my opinion that Omega does have a thickness problem, it is relevant to point out that the competing Submariner is thinner not only than the Seamaster Diver, but the Seamaster Aqua Terra as well. Though dome may account for some of that.
 
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This is a fair point I hadn't considered, the dome height would make the figures I quoted slightly misleading. I am still of the opinion the overall point holds true, Omega has a thickness issue, but it is probably not quite as significant as the numbers suggest. Whichever way you hold the calipers, many Omegas today are chunkier than the equivalent Omegas of 10-20 years ago. I would still like to see that change, personally.

I don't disagree- my point was solely about the Heritage. To be a bit more concise about the dimensions, The First generation heritage had a slightly domed crystal very similar to the AT and SMP, and was 14.95mm in height. The second generation not only decreased the height from 14.95mm to 13.88mm- a 1.07mm decrease in thickness- it also increased the height of the crystal by somewhere in the neighborhood of 0.5mm - 0.7mm. That means the actual change in case height is much greater than is listed on paper. I've owned both of these watches simultaneously, and it's a pretty hefty difference between the cases. As much as I loved the dial on my SM300MCC (and that's a lot) the gen 2 wears a lot better. It also wears better than my on-paper shorter SS Speedy, and it's not close there either.

Now- regarding the SMP and AT, they have a slightly domed crystal much closer to what the gen 1 heritage has. That means that they are, in a way, comparably a lot more chunky than the Heritage- a fact that seems to go fairly unnoticed by anyone who hasn't had a chance to handle the heritage in person and just saw the listed height. The G2 heritage may very well be Omega's best proportioned watch currently (obviously, my opinion). Compared to the AT and the SMP it's a lithe, comfortable, and elegantly proportioned watch. I wouldn't go so far as to say it's a sleeper, but definitely underappreciated. And yes, the AT and SMP line especially could afford to lose some chunk- it would be nice if Omega could pull off the NTTD case in steel in terms of dimensions.
 
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Omega has lost their way and I say this as a huge Omega fan, I have more Omega watches than Rolex etc. Omega's watches are too thick, too heavy too flashy and with way too many special editions and fake patina dials.
Early 2000's Omega watches were their pinnacle in my opinion, 1st gen PO, 1st gen Aquaterra, proper Seamaster Bond watches.
Omega has an amazing catalog of historical watches. They should stick to a small core of watches, Speedmaster, PO, Bond, Aquaterra but with less variations. Make them thinner and lighter. Do a proper modernized reissue of the original Seamaster 300 like they did with the 321. Charge higher prices for that core group of watches.
Agree with these points. Corporate should listen to their biggest fans. Quality over Quantity.
 
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Bottom line is that a public company is generally managed to the expectations of the major shareholders

Well, let's say:
(1.) You were a "major" shareholder AND
(2.) Senior management AND
(3.) You believed Swatch Group would be more successful private

Maybe you wouldn't care so much that stock price was falling by quite a bit, since that would make it MUCH cheaper for you to buy.

Funding secured?
 
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Especially on this point I strongly agree. It doesn't make any sense to me to have a GMT function on a watch with 600 M of water resistance. That is a seriously dedicated dive watch and the addition of a GMT function is nonsensical.

It would make more sense to work with the aquaterra, but that would compete with the world timer... even just keeping the planet ocean as the design, which is very classic Omega, but reducing the water resistance, would make a lot of sense.

My choice would be the seamaster planet ocean 600m reviewed by dsio. The gmt master II is less usable. Both brands can always improve.
 
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It would not take much for Omega to be on top of their game again, like releasing a spot on redesign of the Seamaster Pro with thinner case, non-wave dial, no date option, etc..
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