gur8sing
·Great post with very useful info. Much appreciated.
Size matters.
When I refer to a size, I refer to the size inside the buckle, which is the size of the strap that fits in. All the buckles pictured in this thread are 16 mm. except when mentioned otherwise.
In vintage Omega buckles, there are 3 sizes for men’s straps, 14;16 and 18 mm. 14 mm is a bit small and requires a strap arched from 18 to 14 mm. It is not a very modern strap and is very difficult to find. If you have a big wrist it will give you a boyish look.
16 mm is the most desirable because it will fit modern straps 18-16 mm.
18mm is so rare that you can forget about it and use your energy to find an Ed White speedy.
A very rare 18 mm gold-plated buckle by AW. (Below the 16 mm GM. )
The rule
The rule would be that there are no rules. You can find genuine buckles with any combination of marking. But there is a general trend towards two markings.
Swiss for where it was made.
Acier inox., plaque G, 0,750 for the metal used.
This trend does not disqualify any buckle and one has to learn how to recognise genuine buckles from fakes that you see 99,9 % of the time on sale on Ebay.
There are so many exceptions and that EK. buckle that annoyed me a lot because it broke all my theories, but you always need exception. I believe that early buckles were not signed properly or nobody cared.
The same with different markings
If that buckle is 18K, I think the pin should be stamped that way as well, which I have seen multiple times but not 100% consistent.