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  1. omegastar

    omegastar Mar 19, 2016

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    About Omega buckles,

    Having collected many Omega buckles over the years, I wanted to make a thread called “Let’s make the Ultimate Omega buckle thread”. I felt there was a lack of info on the subject and many fakes on the market, which led people to ask the same questions over and over. So, I started by looking at all the buckles I had and realised that it was not as simple as I thought. They looked the same, but in fact were all different in some way. There are different manufacturers and these manufacturers have not always used the same signature or markings. Worse, you can find the same buckle with or without the manufacturer’s signature. One can be very quickly overwhelmed by the Ikea syndrome, feeling disoriented and not knowing why you were there in the first place.

    boucles Omega 4 108.JPG
    Over time, I noticed some recurrent elements and that you could absolutely not rely on the shape of the Omega symbol to identify the buckles.

    In my investigation, I came to the conclusion that there are two ways to identify a buckle:
    1. The markings.
    2. The profile.

    Using these two elements together, I believe one can achieve a logical classification and a way to indentify a buckle.

    I don’t know the name of the manufacturers and I couldn’t find any relevant information about them. I have identified 4 manufacturers for which I will give a name to make things clear.

    I don’t know the name of the manufacturers and I couldn’t find any relevant information about them. I have identified 4 manufacturers for which I will give a name to make things clear.



    1. MG. upload_2016-3-19_15-56-32.png




    2. AW. upload_2016-3-19_15-57-2.png



    1. B. upload_2016-3-19_15-57-38.png


    4. EK. upload_2016-3-19_15-58-12.png



    I will only consider here Swiss made buckles and not those made for other markets like U-K and USA, since I have no knowledge about them.

    Of course this is only my personal theory and observations, it still has to stand the test and be criticized. Feel free to ad your personal input, to increase our knowledge about Omega buckles, especially the American and British versions.
    Since the launch of the Omega Centenary in 1948, Omega has proved to be very modern in branding and conscious of its importance. Buckles are part of that history.

    GM. And AW. are the most prolific manufacturers.

    In old style buckles, there are two different profiles, oblong or straight.

    Oblong profile buckles were made by GW.

    boucle omega 3 020.JPG


    Straight profile buckles were made by AW.

    boucle omega 3 018.JPG

    boucle omega 3 016.JPG


    (There is an oblong buckle made by EK. but it is bigger.)

    boucles Oméga 055.JPG

    boucles Oméga 052.JPG
    The markings or signature are written in the same direction as the Omega symbol for GW. and opposite direction for AW.

    So AW. Buckles are easy to identify because the markings are always the other way around and AW. is the only one doing it.

    Markings of GW. in the same direction as the Omega symbol.

    boucles Oméga 025.JPG

    boucles Oméga 031.JPG

    boucle Omega 2 079.JPG

    boucle Omega 2 108.JPG


    Markings of AW. in opposite direction of the Omega symbol.

    boucles Oméga 004.JPG

    boucles Oméga 006.JPG

    boucles Oméga 010.JPG

    boucle Omega 2 114.JPG

    Markings of EK. in the same direction as the Omega symbol.

    boucle Omega 2 036.JPG

    boucle Omega 3 008.JPG


    Markings of B. in the same direction as the Omega symbol.


    boucle Omega 3 002.JPG
     
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  2. omegastar

    omegastar Mar 19, 2016

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    The missing link or buckle.

    MG. has had two different markings or signature.

    First this one

    upload_2016-3-19_16-35-37.png

    Then later this one

    upload_2016-3-19_16-36-8.png

    I discovered it thanks to these buckles, old style buckles identical to the others bearing the new marking.

    boucle Omega 2 058.JPG


    boucle Omega 2 063.JPG

    boucle Omega 2 067.JPG

    boucle Omega 3 016.JPG

    boucle Omega 3 017.JPG

    boucle Omega 3 021.JPG


    Another interesting buckle is this one which is transitional between the old style and the modern style. It has the same body but a different Omega symbol which announces the modern one we all know.

    boucle Omega 2 094.JPG





    boucles Omega 4 003.JPG



    boucles Omega 4 005.JPG

    boucles Omega 4 008.JPG


    Pics of a modern style MG. Buckles:

    boucle Omega 2 105.JPG

    boucles Omega 4 019.JPG

    boucle Omega 2 104.JPG

    boucles Omega 4 022.JPG

    boucle Omega 2 107.JPG

    boucle Omega 2 108.JPG

    boucles Omega 4 024.JPG

    boucles Omega 4 112.JPG

    boucles Omega 4 115.JPG


    2 identical MG. buckles, one is signed the second is not, but both are genuine.

    boucles Oméga 025.JPG


    boucles Oméga 026.JPG
     
    boucle Omega 2 001.JPG boucle Omega 2 099.JPG boucle Omega 2 097.JPG
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  3. omegastar

    omegastar Mar 19, 2016

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    Size matters.


    When I refer to a size, I refer to the size inside the buckle, which is the size of the strap that fits in. All the buckles pictured in this thread are 16 mm. except when mentioned otherwise.

    In vintage Omega buckles, there are 3 sizes for men’s straps, 14;16 and 18 mm. 14 mm is a bit small and requires a strap arched from 18 to 14 mm. It is not a very modern strap and is very difficult to find. If you have a big wrist it will give you a boyish look.

    16 mm is the most desirable because it will fit modern straps 18-16 mm.

    18mm is so rare that you can forget about it and use your energy to find an Ed White speedy.

    boucles Omega 4 094.JPG


    boucles Omega 4 097.JPG


    boucles Omega 4 098.JPG

    A very rare 18 mm gold-plated buckle by AW. (Below the 16 mm GM. )


    boucle Omega 2 027.JPG


    boucle Omega 2 029.JPG


    boucle Omega 2 030.JPG


    The rule


    The rule would be that there are no rules. You can find genuine buckles with any combination of marking. But there is a general trend towards two markings.


    Swiss for where it was made.

    Acier inox., plaque G, 0,750 for the metal used.

    boucle Omega 2 018.JPG


    boucle Omega 2 021.JPG


    boucle Omega 2 036.JPG


    boucle Omega 2 055.JPG


    boucle Omega 2 067.JPG


    boucle Omega 2 074.JPG


    boucle Omega 2 079.JPG


    boucle Omega 2 114.JPG


    boucle Omega 3 002.JPG


    boucle Omega 3 011.JPG



    boucles Omega 4 012.JPG


    boucles Omega 4 017.JPG


    boucles Omega 4 050.JPG

    This trend does not disqualify any buckle and one has to learn how to recognise genuine buckles from fakes that you see 99,9 % of the time on sale on Ebay.

    There are so many exceptions and that EK. buckle that annoyed me a lot because it broke all my theories, but you always need exception. I believe that early buckles were not signed properly or nobody cared.


    boucle Omega 2 036.JPG
    The same with different markings

    boucle Omega 3 0000.jpg
     
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  4. omegastar

    omegastar Mar 19, 2016

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    18k or 750 gold buckles

    boucles Omega 4 090.JPG

    As far as I know they exist in 14 mm and 16 mm.

    As you can see, when it is an 18k gold buckle it is always fully signed with Swiss, 750 and the manufacturer’s mark. So in that case it is easy to disqualify fakes.


    boucles Omega 4 053.JPG


    boucles Omega 4 083.JPG


    boucles Omega 4 084.JPG

    Most are made by AW. And those should have an 18k gold spring bar.


    boucles Omega 4 064.JPG



    boucles Omega 4 065.JPG



    boucles Omega 4 067.JPG


    boucles Omega 4 071.JPG


    boucles Omega 4 074.JPG


    boucles Omega 4 077.JPG


    boucles Omega 4 080.JPG


    boucles Omega 4 081.JPG


    boucles Omega 4 086.JPG



    boucles Omega 4 087.JPG


    The one made by GM. Has a gold-plated spring bar, but the buckle is heavier in gold

    boucles Omega 4 054.JPG



    boucles Omega 4 055.JPG



    boucles Omega 4 056.JPG


    boucles Omega 4 059.JPG


    Evolution in time or chronology

    boucles Omega 4 117.JPG


    This is a proposition I make out of observation. I have no proof and I am open to suggestions. I think it will be very difficult to date those buckle, but maybe if we make a survey we will come to something.

    1.Early EK.

    boucle Omega 3 003.JPG


    boucle Omega 3 008.JPG



    2.Later oblong EK.

    boucle Omega 2 033.JPG

    boucle Omega 2 039.JPG


    boucle Omega 2 042.JPG


    boucle Omega 2 045.JPG


    boucle Omega 2 044.JPG
     
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  5. omegastar

    omegastar Mar 19, 2016

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    3.Older style MG.


    boucle Omega 2 070.JPG


    boucle Omega 2 074.JPG

    Note how the older style Omega symbol is much thicker

    boucle Omega 2 084.JPG


    boucle Omega 2 085.JPG


    4.Old style MG.

    boucles Oméga 026.JPG


    boucle Omega 2 004.JPG


    boucle Omega 2 005.JPG


    boucle Omega 2 009.JPG

    Evolution of MG. buckles

    boucle Omega 2 086.JPG


    boucle Omega 2 088.JPG


    Older style AW.


    boucle Omega 2 051.JPG


    boucles Oméga 001.JPG


    Old style AW.


    boucle Omega 2 115.JPG


    boucle Omega 2 116.JPG


    boucle Omega 2 117.JPG


    boucle Omega 2 118.JPG

    Evolution of AW. buckles


    boucle Omega 2 111.JPG


    boucle Omega 2 112.JPG


    5.Special EK.

    boucles Omega 4 045.JPG


    boucles Omega 4 046.JPG


    8.Later B.

    boucles Omega 4 039.JPG



    boucles Omega 4 044.JPG

    9.Even later B

    boucles Omega 4 034.JPG



    boucles Omega 4 036.JPG

    Well, I think that's all folks.
    I hope it will be usefull to someone.
    Mounir
     
    boucle Omega 2 055.JPG boucle Omega 2 071.JPG boucle Omega 2 114.JPG
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  6. Tony C.

    Tony C. Ωf Jury member Mar 19, 2016

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    Thank you for the terrific resource! Unfortunately, some will have trouble with the slow-loading image server.

    Regards,

    Tony C.
     
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  7. LiquidSolid

    LiquidSolid Mar 19, 2016

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    You're a star! Excellent source of info here on Omega buckles. Thanks vm for sharing! :thumbsup:
     
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  8. w154

    w154 Mar 19, 2016

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    Great write-up !

    So amongst my old omega bits I have a "9. Even later B" in 14mm, and a "Modern Style MG" in 16mm. So I learnt something today :)
     
    image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
    Edited Mar 19, 2016
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  9. wwhntr

    wwhntr Mar 19, 2016

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    Outstanding research! This thread should go in archives!
     
  10. rbob99

    rbob99 Mar 19, 2016

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    Very helpful. Many thanks.
     
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  11. gatorcpa

    gatorcpa ΩF InvestiGator Staff Member Mar 19, 2016

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    This rates a sticky at the top of the forum.
    gatorcpa
     
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  12. ahsposo

    ahsposo Most fun screen name at ΩF Mar 19, 2016

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    Nice work! Thanks!
     
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  13. nickw

    nickw Mar 19, 2016

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    And this is why I love this forum.
     
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  14. Giff2577

    Giff2577 Quick with the tools! Mar 19, 2016

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    Thank you so much for this informative post!
    I have a similar improperly signed buckle that I too thought was genuine. image.png
    Where is the S?
     
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  15. UncleBuck

    UncleBuck understands the decision making hierarchy Mar 19, 2016

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    Quadrophenic-Schizophrenia

    Absolutely fabulous!
    More buckle insight in one lump... than I have seen in three years following Omega.

    You are a credit to the hobby and the help you give in specific areas like this, @Tire-comedon with pre-war, @John R Smith with Centenaries and on and on is why this forum and this membership is so absolutely priceless.
    40 years ago, it would have taken a lifetime to learn the information that people like you and the many here have placed within our fingertips

    "This rates a sticky at the top of the forum."
    gatorcpa

    Here, here!
     
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  16. JimInOz

    JimInOz "Helpful Hints from Heloise" of bracelet cleaning. Mar 19, 2016

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    This will assist many of us in our collecting, and settle many arguments about "Uncle" watches.
     
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  17. kingsrider

    kingsrider Thank you Sir! May I have another? Mar 19, 2016

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    A follow up on counterfeits would be great.
     
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  18. UncleBuck

    UncleBuck understands the decision making hierarchy Mar 19, 2016

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    Easy on us Uncles, mate!

    Great idea, but I'd rather study the finite list of real buckles than the infinite list of fakes.
    Actually, if you know one list, you know the other!
     
  19. JimInOz

    JimInOz "Helpful Hints from Heloise" of bracelet cleaning. Mar 19, 2016

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    Not real Uncles Jim, more like the ones who leave all of these nephews "rare" watches.
     
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  20. UncleBuck

    UncleBuck understands the decision making hierarchy Mar 19, 2016

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    I don't think they are really getting them from "Uncles", Jim, I think they may be speaking untruthfully!
    We are innocent, decent and honorable fellas getting a bad rap ever since Uncle Ernie "fiddled about".

    untitled.png .
     
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