About Omega buckles

About Omega buckles,

Having collected many Omega buckles over the years, I wanted to make a thread called “Let’s make the Ultimate Omega buckle thread”. I felt there was a lack of info on the subject and many fakes on the market, which led people to ask the same questions over and over. So, I started by looking at all the buckles I had and realised that it was not as simple as I thought. They looked the same, but in fact were all different in some way. There are different manufacturers and these manufacturers have not always used the same signature or markings. Worse, you can find the same buckle with or without the manufacturer’s signature. One can be very quickly overwhelmed by the Ikea syndrome, feeling disoriented and not knowing why you were there in the first place.


Over time, I noticed some recurrent elements and that you could absolutely not rely on the shape of the Omega symbol to identify the buckles.

In my investigation, I came to the conclusion that there are two ways to identify a buckle:

1. The markings.
2. The profile.

Using these two elements together, I believe one can achieve a logical classification and a way to indentify a buckle.

I don’t know the name of the manufacturers and I couldn’t find any relevant information about them. I have identified 4 manufacturers for which I will give a name to make things clear.

I don’t know the name of the manufacturers and I couldn’t find any relevant information about them. I have identified 4 manufacturers for which I will give a name to make things clear.



1. MG.

2. AW.

1. B.
   

4. EK.

I will only consider here Swiss made buckles and not those made for other markets like U-K and USA, since I have no knowledge about them.

Of course this is only my personal theory and observations, it still has to stand the test and be criticized. Feel free to ad your personal input, to increase our knowledge about Omega buckles, especially the American and British versions.
Since the launch of the Omega Centenary in 1948, Omega has proved to be very modern in branding and conscious of its importance. Buckles are part of that history.

GM. And AW. are the most prolific manufacturers.

In old style buckles, there are two different profiles, oblong or straight.

Oblong profile buckles were made by GW.




Straight profile buckles were made by AW.

(There is an oblong buckle made by EK. but it is bigger.)


The markings or signature are written in the same direction as the Omega symbol for GW. and opposite direction for AW.

So AW. Buckles are easy to identify because the markings are always the other way around and AW. is the only one doing it.

Markings of GW. in the same direction as the Omega symbol.




Markings of AW. in opposite direction of the Omega symbol.



Markings of EK. in the same direction as the Omega symbol.




Markings of B. in the same direction as the Omega symbol.

The missing link or buckle.

MG. has had two different markings or signature.

First this one



Then later this one



I discovered it thanks to these buckles, old style buckles identical to the others bearing the new marking.




Another interesting buckle is this one which is transitional between the old style and the modern style. It has the same body but a different Omega symbol which announces the modern one we all know.




Pics of a modern style MG. Buckles:




2 identical MG. buckles, one is signed the second is not, but both are genuine.

Size matters.


When I refer to a size, I refer to the size inside the buckle, which is the size of the strap that fits in. All the buckles pictured in this thread are 16 mm. except when mentioned otherwise.

In vintage Omega buckles, there are 3 sizes for men’s straps, 14;16 and 18 mm. 14 mm is a bit small and requires a strap arched from 18 to 14 mm. It is not a very modern strap and is very difficult to find. If you have a big wrist it will give you a boyish look.

16 mm is the most desirable because it will fit modern straps 18-16 mm.

18mm is so rare that you can forget about it and use your energy to find an Ed White speedy.



A very rare 18 mm gold-plated buckle by AW. (Below the 16 mm GM. )





The rule


The rule would be that there are no rules. You can find genuine buckles with any combination of marking. But there is a general trend towards two markings.


Swiss for where it was made.

Acier inox., plaque G, 0,750 for the metal used.



This trend does not disqualify any buckle and one has to learn how to recognise genuine buckles from fakes that you see 99,9 % of the time on sale on Ebay.

There are so many exceptions and that EK. buckle that annoyed me a lot because it broke all my theories, but you always need exception. I believe that early buckles were not signed properly or nobody cared.



The same with different markings

18k or 750 gold buckles

As far as I know they exist in 14 mm and 16 mm.

As you can see, when it is an 18k gold buckle it is always fully signed with Swiss, 750 and the manufacturer’s mark. So in that case it is easy to disqualify fakes.

Most are made by AW. And those should have an 18k gold spring bar.





The one made by GM. Has a gold-plated spring bar, but the buckle is heavier in gold




Evolution in time or chronology

This is a proposition I make out of observation. I have no proof and I am open to suggestions. I think it will be very difficult to date those buckle, but maybe if we make a survey we will come to something.

1.Early EK.

2.Later oblong EK.

3.Older style MG.




Note how the older style Omega symbol is much thicker




4.Old style MG.



Evolution of MG. buckles




Older style AW.





Old style AW.




Evolution of AW. buckles





5.Special EK.




8.Later B.



9.Even later B



Well, I think that's all folks.
I hope it will be usefull to someone.
Mounir

You're a star! Excellent source of info here on Omega buckles. Thanks vm for sharing! 👍

Great write-up !

So amongst my old omega bits I have a "9. Even later B" in 14mm, and a "Modern Style MG" in 16mm. So I learnt something today 😀

Outstanding research! This thread should go in archives!

And this is why I love this forum.

Thank you so much for this informative post!
I have a similar improperly signed buckle that I too thought was genuine.
Where is the S?

A follow up on counterfeits would be great.