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Which Vintage Submariner?

sgoody1
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I think the bracelet looks good.
I was really looking at the 16800 matte dial, but this is something a bit different and rare.
I haven't seen any others - can you send a picture of yours?
What do you think of the colour?
 
sgoody1
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The 2nd 16800 (on the white leather background) is £5,800.
Not sure which is a better bet?
 
M
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sgoody1 sgoody1
I think the bracelet looks good.
I was really looking at the 16800 matte dial, but this is something a bit different and rare.
I haven't seen any others - can you send a picture of yours?
What do you think of the colour?
IMG_1600.JPG

Mines a 9 million serial from 1989...

Hard to comment on your example without more/better pictures. Patina looks great but can't comment beyond that. If you're serious about this one I'd ask for more pics and head over to TRF for expert verification.
 
M
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sgoody1 sgoody1
The 2nd 16800 (on the white leather background) is £5,800.
Not sure which is a better bet?
It comes down to age and condition. One mans 'sharp' is another mans 'over polished'.

I wouldn't pay any premium for the triple zero. Rare and unusual but not visually different enough be easily identifiable and desirable over other refs.

Assuming they're legit, find one you like and bite the bullet then don't look back.
 
M
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sgoody1 sgoody1
The 2nd 16800 (on the white leather background) is £5,800.
Not sure which is a better bet?
Do you prefer the matt dial on the 16800 or the WG surrounds on the 168000?

The corrosion on the hands of the 168000 are a little worrisome. Not a show stopper but a condition point to negotiate on...
 
sgoody1
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Thanks - I do prefer the 16800. And hadn't noticed the 168000 corrosion. And I think you are right - if there is no visible difference, then whats the point of it?
I should stick with the Matte 16800 and just wait till the right one comes up.
 
M
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sgoody1 sgoody1
Thanks - I do prefer the 16800. And hadn't noticed the 168000 corrosion. And I think you are right - if there is no visible difference, then whats the point of it?
I should stick with the Matte 16800 and just wait till the right one comes up.

The points in favor of the 168000 are subtle... glossy dial with WG surrounds, harder 904L steel, and if it's legit, the knowledge that it's one of the rarest Subs made... great bragging points but not worth any price premium.

Again, pick one you like and can afford then don't look back.
 
wkimmd
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hey @sgoody1 it seems like your focus is more into buying a watch - any watch - that fits into your budget rather than finding the right watch. i would recommend stepping back a bit, and thinking more about what watch it is you want, and then being vigilant. i had been looking for a late 70s GMT, for over 6 months, with a particular patina, and other criteria i had in mind. finally i found the perfect watch, at a price i thought was more than fair - so I quickly pulled the trigger. remember there are always subs out there...some cost a little more, some less. but just because of numbers - you will find the right one, if you do some more research and stay patient.
 
jimmyd13
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@sgoody1 - I've got to second the comment above. I was not a born Rolex fan but, over the years, the draw of a classic submariner increased to the point where I had to add an example of the iconic watch to my collection. I decided that the one for me was a 5513 metres first and set to looking for a "perfect" example. I idly watched auctions and sale for a very good example for 6 years. When I realised it would take much more work to get what I wanted, I settled down to getting every catalogue and online search imaginable. It took a further 6 months to locate a really good one (with just slightly later hands, everything else original) in Qatar.

Work out what you want first and then your budget; then, start some seriously hard researching.
 
emilio
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If I were you I would go for a 5513 with the glossy dial it will be in your price range. Then you at least have a plexi..

The matte dial of the 168000 looks strange with the sapphire crystal.
 
M
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jimmyd13 jimmyd13
@sgoody1 - ... I idly watched auctions and sale for a very good example for 6 years. When I realised it would take much more work to get what I wanted, I settled down to getting every catalogue and online search imaginable. It took a further 6 months to locate a really good one (with just slightly later hands, everything else original) in Qatar.

Wow, you spent nearly ~7 years looking for a Sub? That's dedication!

I'm glad you found it in the end. Do you still have it ? Is it a daily wearer for you or just part of the collection?
 
jimmyd13
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M morningtundra
Wow, you spent nearly ~7 years looking for a Sub? That's dedication!

I'm glad you found it in the end. Do you still have it ? Is it a daily wearer for you or just part of the collection?
161_5.jpg 384253-99c70659569fc5441f54fdaae6f82fc4.jpg


I'm going to be buried still wearing her 😉
 
wkimmd
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And this is my GMT, all original, Mk4 dial, unpolished with beautiful chamfers. Patience pays off!!
IMG_1405.JPG
 
sgoody1
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Thanks for the thoughts - the issue with waiting too long is the prices seem to gradually climb.
I keep coming back to the 16800 matte dial one.
I feel I may need to spend more than I intended, but I guess that will just hurt that once, and then I should have a good one.
That meters first example is beautiful - I did see one come up for auction recently, but went for more than I was happy to pay, and I wasn't loving the patina, looked a bit white (but I think for some of them, thats how its meant to be).
On the 16800 Matte dials, I have only just found out there are 4 types!!! Is there one that is better than the others, or are they all really much the same?
 
M
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The joy of owning these things is in wearing them. In waiting too long you're forfeiting the enjoyment...while you watch the price creep up. It took me about 3 months from deciding to buy one to pulling the trigger. Sure, I probably over paid for it, but I like it and when I give it to my son one day, I don't think he'll care what I paid for it.
Edited:
 
wkimmd
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sgoody1 sgoody1
Thanks for the thoughts - the issue with waiting too long is the prices seem to gradually climb.
I keep coming back to the 16800 matte dial one.
I feel I may need to spend more than I intended, but I guess that will just hurt that once, and then I should have a good one.
That meters first example is beautiful - I did see one come up for auction recently, but went for more than I was happy to pay, and I wasn't loving the patina, looked a bit white (but I think for some of them, thats how its meant to be).
On the 16800 Matte dials, I have only just found out there are 4 types!!! Is there one that is better than the others, or are they all really much the same?
I would go w the one that draws your eyesnin the most. Value wise in my opinion, consition matters more than the dial "type." Me personally I like the Mk I or the Mk IV.
 
M
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Wing Zero Wing Zero
1960 Vintage = Gilt Chapter Ring dials, Plexi 4 digit references like 5512, 5508, 6536, 6538, 5510, 6546 are WAY out of your price range
1970 Vintage = matte dials, plexi 4 digit references. like 5512, 5513, 1680, 1675, 1665 are all out of your price range.
1980 Vintage = matte dial transitions with sapphire crystals, 5 digit references like the 16800, 16750 might be in your budget if they are beat to crap and need servicing.
1990 Vintage = Glossy dials with sapphire crystals like the 168000, 16610, 5513 will be in your price range. But IMHO are not vintage.

Good Luck.
I agree. Anything post 1980 is modern classic, not vintage... IMO anyway.

Given your location try Giles Oakley at Oakley Watches.
Edited:
 
jfmiii
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M morningtundra
I agree. Anything post 1980 is modern classic, not vintage...

Given your location try Giles Oakley at Oakley Watches.

wrong. a Maxi 5513, Matte 16750, Matte 16800, Matte 16660 are all vintage and all made in the 1980s. Not to mention 1016, 1655, and 626x Daytona were all made in the 1980s. But these are all "modern classics?" Sure dont have "modern classic" prices.
 
wkimmd
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jfmiii jfmiii
wrong. a Maxi 5513, Matte 16750, Matte 16800, Matte 16660 are all vintage and all made in the 1980s. Not to mention 1016, 1655, and 626x Daytona were all made in the 1980s. But these are all "modern classics?" Sure dont have "modern classic" prices.
kinda but maybe. i think the reason why 5513 and 1016s are considered vintage (even if produced in the 80s) is because the reference starting production way before that - the 1960s. 16750 matte, as a transitional that bridged the 1675 (and which itself started production in the late 70s) is considered vintage for that reason. I think 16800 and 16660 are borderline. I guess what I am saying is that each watch needs to be taken and regarded on its own merits - not sure there is a specific cut off time that should say a watch is vintage or not. But I think most would say at least 30 years (which would put us at 1987). Also there is the individual wearer - I am sure whether you were born in the 60s or 90s has an impact on what you would consider vintage...
my 0.02.
 
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