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Habitant
·There's nothing for it but to strip it and reprint it. I don't think it was an original print, in any event. It is the sort of thing that C&F would be able to do.
Watchmakers - Dial Restoration
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befobe
·Roberto Tarabella seems to be well-recognised and pretty skilled in dial restoration and relume work as I just recently found out.
Here you can see an example of a SM 300 he relumed: https://omegaforums.net/threads/roberto-tarabella-and-advice-on-relume.104158/
B.
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Caliber561
·There's nothing for it but to strip it and reprint it. I don't think it was an original print, in any event. It is the sort of thing that C&F would be able to do.
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BDHD
·I will be able to post in a few days some photos of his work... According the previews I got, seems not bad 😁... That was on a 145.012 which had lost its tritium on most of the index. I'm looking forward to seeing it!... Keep you informed...
B.
Looking forward to see it as well! Very interested in Roberto's work specially
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BDHD
·Updated List (11/19/2019)
•Classic Watch Repair (Hong Kong) (http://www.classicwatchrepair.com/english/dial-restoration)
•Roberto Tarabella Watchmaker (Italy) (https://www.instagram.com/roberto.tarabella_watchmaker)
•C&F Dial Restoration (England) (https://www.watchdialrestoration.co.uk/asp-pages/dial-restoration-gallery.asp)
•LA Watchworks (Los Angeles, CA USA) (http://www.lawatchworks.com/service.html)
•Rene (Germany) (https://www.instagram.com/of_golden_times)
•Aldo (Italy) (http://www.milwatchmaker.com/lavori.php?lavoro=lavoro8)
•D R Bill and Sons Ltd (England) (https://drbillandsons.com)
•Classic Watch Repair (Hong Kong) (http://www.classicwatchrepair.com/english/dial-restoration)
•Roberto Tarabella Watchmaker (Italy) (https://www.instagram.com/roberto.tarabella_watchmaker)
•C&F Dial Restoration (England) (https://www.watchdialrestoration.co.uk/asp-pages/dial-restoration-gallery.asp)
•LA Watchworks (Los Angeles, CA USA) (http://www.lawatchworks.com/service.html)
•Rene (Germany) (https://www.instagram.com/of_golden_times)
•Aldo (Italy) (http://www.milwatchmaker.com/lavori.php?lavoro=lavoro8)
•D R Bill and Sons Ltd (England) (https://drbillandsons.com)
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befobe
·Looking forward to see it as well! Very interested in Roberto's work specially
Satisfied, as expected...
(Buts I'm not a photographer.... Don't know how to manage reflecting light...)
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Willbur
·So If I well understood, it's not a redial but only a relume ?
Relume is a different job which requires different skills and tools than a redial.
Anyway it's a nice result.
Note : For reflecting light you need to add a polarizing filter on your camera.
Relume is a different job which requires different skills and tools than a redial.
Anyway it's a nice result.
Note : For reflecting light you need to add a polarizing filter on your camera.
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BDHD
·So If I well understood, it's not a redial but only a relume ?
Relume is a different job which requires different skills and tools than a redial.
Anyway it's a nice result.
Note : For reflecting light you need to add a polarizing filter on your camera.
Thanks for the polarizing filter tip! Had no clue about it
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befobe
·Exact, only a relume, and I like the result, I had a look with a lens, it is really perfect.
Bravo Roberto... !
I just made a quick test in the dark: the index are visible, but I did not see the hands... I need to make a serious test again...
(The watch is a 145.012 from 1968)
Bravo Roberto... !
I just made a quick test in the dark: the index are visible, but I did not see the hands... I need to make a serious test again...
(The watch is a 145.012 from 1968)
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BDHD
·Exact, only a relume, and I like the result, I had a look with a lens, it is really perfect.
Bravo Roberto... !
I just made a quick test in the dark: the index are visible, but I did not see the hands... I need to make a serious test again...
(The watch is a 145.012 from 1968)
You relume the hands as well? If the lume is too visible in the dark then is an obvious relume and it loses value in my opinion. Since is a vintage watch from the 1968 the indexes and hands should not be shining in the dark.
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befobe
·You relume the hands as well? If the lume is too visible in the dark then is an obvious relume and it loses value in my opinion. Since is a vintage watch from the 1968 the indexes and hands should not be shining in the dark.
The watch did not see the sun today.
At home, tonight. I go in a dark room: see nothing.
Switch on a light, place the watch under it for 20s, switch off, and then, I barely see the index. And not the hands, or it is too weak to see.
And yes, the hands have been relumed...
Is it normal?...
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befobe
·Correction: I see the hands. But it is very very weak...
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befobe
·And I have the confirmation that Roberto uses real tritium... Wonder how he can get this forbidden substance...
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Willbur
·He may have an old stock.
I was not sure that hands were relumed when I see the crack on the hour hand lume.
I was not sure that hands were relumed when I see the crack on the hour hand lume.
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BDHD
·What I did:
The watch did not see the sun today.
At home, tonight. I go in a dark room: see nothing.
Switch on a light, place the watch under it for 20s, switch off, and then, I barely see the index. And not the hands, or it is too weak to see.
And yes, the hands have been relumed...
Is it normal?...
I will say the intention of the watchmaker is to make those real weak! A 1968 watch can not shine as new, it does not look right. I would not want my vintage watch to shine in the dark as a brand new watch.
The look of the lume on the hands with the crack is really good! Only a true artist can do something like that!
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Habitant
·The Centenary dial? The printing is original.
Edited:
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Habitant
·Thanks for the polarizing filter tip! Had no clue about it
High end watch photography is often done with the glass off and/or shot as a two part composite.
Edited:
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Caliber561
·That's as may be, but the lacquer is unlikely to get better. With that raised lettering, you wouldn't be able to remove the surrounding lacquer without damaging the printing. It's a dilemma, and as I said, if the lacquer deterioration is a visual problem, then there are few options open to one. So…live with it or reprint it.
I understand that the lacquer is not going to improve, but gold Omega dials from this period have been able to be re-lacquered because the printing is underneath the lacquer. I'm not sure what you're referring to by the raised lettering – if it's the dial indices which you mean, then those can be carefully removed from the dial by tapping them out from the bottom side. If you're referring to the printing, using the proper solvent to eliminate the lacquer leaves the printing intact. From my understanding, this doesn't mean the entire dial needs to be reprinted, just that the lacquer needs to be removed, the minute track repaired, and then a fresh coat of lacquer applied.
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Habitant
·The lettering saying the brand name appears to be raised, printed heavily on the surface of the dial. After that was printed on, the dial would have been lacquered, as lacquer is usually the top coat. Depending on the lacquer used, it can sometimes – not always – cleaned off. But once you get to the lettering you have a problem, ditto the minute track. So you have to leave the lacquer in place in those areas and this can look a bit rubbish. The printing ink and lacquer are different materials and you'd be very lucky to remove one without damaging the other. Not sure what "solvent" you are imagining. Commonly, people refer to acidic solvents such as citric acid and this would be in solution with water. Some dial printing inks are water soluble, some not.
The indices are not part of the conversation.
The indices are not part of the conversation.
