The Planet Ocean

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That has a 2500c date wheel, that's all I can tell you . 😁

Wivac, thanks for reply.

I also Found a previous thread & I think i'm now pretty sure that it is 2500c as you say (boy, does that "Archer" know his stuff). I think it could probably do with a service as was new in 2009 (but made in 2008 it seems) & never been opened. I'm just reluctant to service it as I will probably not wear it for a long time due to a new purchase which I cant seem to take off, and Omega want £450 GBP for a service. And it runs well when worn/wound.

Jeeper
 
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Wivac, thanks for reply.

I also Found a previous thread & I think i'm now pretty sure that it is 2500c as you say (boy, does that "Archer" know his stuff). I think it could probably do with a service as was new in 2009 (but made in 2008 it seems) & never been opened. I'm just reluctant to service it as I will probably not wear it for a long time due to a new purchase which I cant seem to take off, and Omega want £450 GBP for a service. And it runs well when worn/wound.

Jeeper

Archer is THE King
 
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Wivac, thanks for reply.

I also Found a previous thread & I think i'm now pretty sure that it is 2500c as you say (boy, does that "Archer" know his stuff). I think it could probably do with a service as was new in 2009 (but made in 2008 it seems) & never been opened. I'm just reluctant to service it as I will probably not wear it for a long time due to a new purchase which I cant seem to take off, and Omega want £450 GBP for a service. And it runs well when worn/wound.

Jeeper
Wearing the watch with servicing it is like driving your car without oil! The gears will grind and wear down and then need replacing. It’s better to maintain proper service or simply leave it in a drawer unwound to avoid damaging it if you’re wearing something else.
 
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Archer is THE King

It certainly seems to be the case, reading through this forum.

Jeeper
 
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Wearing the watch with servicing it is like driving your car without oil! The gears will grind and wear down and then need replacing. It’s better to maintain proper service or simply leave it in a drawer unwound to avoid damaging it if you’re wearing something else.
Baz, the watch is back in its box along with my DJ & B-e-M C S XL, until such a time as I get bored with it & decide to wear something else.

Jeeper

Bored with it, should read bored with new purchase.

Jeeper
Edited:
 
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Wearing the watch with servicing it is like driving your car without oil! The gears will grind and wear down and then need replacing. It’s better to maintain proper service or simply leave it in a drawer unwound to avoid damaging it if you’re wearing something else.

Baz 9614
The other point was the cost of Omega service in UK £450 for servicing a 3 hand watch is a tough decision when a) it runs well & keeps good time & b) it is worn seldomly. I know that ultimately this could be a false economy but it is still a chunk of £££.

Jeeper
 
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Baz 9614
The other point was the cost of Omega service in UK £450 for servicing a 3 hand watch is a tough decision when a) it runs well & keeps good time & b) it is worn seldomly. I know that ultimately this could be a false economy but it is still a chunk of £££.

Jeeper
Totally understand! Servicing the collection can be costly for sure!
 
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Back on my wrist today, been sat in the safe for a while. Bought new in 2008 for my 40th, continuous wear for 10 years until a speedy for my 50th, will treat it to an overdue service this year.
 
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2019 PO 39.5mm in traffic jam, a bit of a retro look with leather strap. I have 6.25” wrists.
Edited:
 
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Hint of orange is my everyday wear?
Back on my wrist today, been sat in the safe for a while. Bought new in 2008 for my 40th, continuous wear for 10 years until a speedy for my 50th, will treat it to an overdue service this year.
 
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How have you found the stitching on your strap? I've got a 2017 model of that watch and wear it everyday, however, I am seeing some fraying with the stitching?
 
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PRW PRW
How have you found the stitching on your strap? I've got a 2017 model of that watch and wear it everyday, however, I am seeing some fraying with the stitching?

Stitching is still perfect on mine, bought on bracelet and added the strap a few years later, so probably about 8 years wear.
 
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I have a feeling you like Omegas.... BEAUTIFUL collection you have there
One could say I'm a little biased towards the brand! Great value though - how could you not?
 
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What is the significance of the 2? I'm looking for a good 2200.50
With the "stop dead" syndrome on the C series, OMEGA's answer was to redo the entire escapement, going from a 2 level escapement from the 2500"C" to a 3 level escapement on the new and improved "D" series. (Which are the same level of escapement used on the current 8X00s and 9X00s series minus the thickness) so basically you get the best of both world, a 3 level escapement with an overall thinner watch.
 
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Could anyone enlighten me as to whether this has a Calibre 2500c or 2500d . I have read many articles but cant seem to find a definitive answer,
Watch number begins 8465****.. Photo shows straight 1 & flat top 4.
TIA
Jeeper
easiest way to tell a 2500"C" vs a 2500"D" is the serial number, only watches with the serial number of 8525XXXX+ have the "D" movement. Also the "One" on the date wheel would look like "1" on the "D" series whereas the "C" series would look like " l " (lower case L).
 
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Quick pick of my 8527XXXX D movement, love wearing this thru the week.
 
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No doubts the POLMLE is THE PO to own 😀
This photo hypnotizes me!! Really, what an amazing pic! Thanks for posting it.

Greetings from Zürich. This is mine:
 
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With the "stop dead" syndrome on the C series, OMEGA's answer was to redo the entire escapement, going from a 2 level escapement from the 2500"C" to a 3 level escapement on the new and improved "D" series.

Depends what you mean. Omega doesn't convert a C to a D, but yes the eventual solution to the design issue was to change the design.

For the B and C versions still out there, they are still 2 level but Omega implemented different lubrication procedures to mitigate the "stopping problem" which was caused by a build up of black sticky residue on the intermediate escape wheel teeth and the co-axial wheel teeth. Here it is on the intermediate escape wheel:



easiest way to tell a 2500"C" vs a 2500"D" is the serial number, only watches with the serial number of 8525XXXX+ have the "D" movement. Also the "One" on the date wheel would look like "1" on the "D" series whereas the "C" series would look like " l " (lower case L).

I would be cautious taking this as gospel. The way to be 100% sure is to look at the movement, which will be stamped with the version. The next best method is to use the serial number to look up the movement in the actual watch - only Omega or someone with access to the Omega Extranet can do this.

Note that the date indicator font is not 100% reliable - people have asked me to change the date indicators in the C to the one from the D. I refused, but it's possible others may do it without thinking.

Cheers, Al
 
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No doubts the POLMLE is THE PO to own 😀

It's definitely a nice watch, but I wouldn't call it THE PO. I much prefer the 8900 for all of the modern improvements.