Strategic changes at Longines

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Timex had a massive hit relatively recently with a 34mm mens watch.
Was this a dive watch?
 
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Nope..Marlin dress watch. Still selling. It sold out immediately and then several times after when they first released it.
 
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I prefer Longines because actually their designs are based on original vintage designs, I respect Nomos but their neo vintage aesthetic with no brand heritage to base it on, rubs me the wrong way.
With respect to brand heritage, an analogy is coming to mind. I am imagining a restaurant that has been in the same location for 100 years. For many of those years, the restaurant was reputed to serve incredible food. Recently, a new chef was hired and the food is no longer noteworthy. However, people still go to the restaurant because of its name and former reputation. Next door is another restaurant that opened 5 years ago. Though the staff are young, the food is exceptional. The recipes draw from many influences and are carefully executed. Despite positive reviews, many people are reluctant to try such a new restaurant.

Personally, the food/watch itself matters much more than the reputation/brand heritage, but I understand that this is a subjective matter.
 
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M


Well, that does make sense if indeed a majority of (male) buyers prefer to focus on measurements 😁

Thanks for the info on the silicone hairspring. 👍


Take note of the difference between silicone, and silicon! Two entirely different materials.
 
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Not a brand that would usually be on my radar but saw the Zulu Time watch last week online and thought it was a winner. Called in to my AD to enquire about another watch and saw they stocked Longines so enquired about the ZT. By chance the Longines rep was in demoing the new releases.

Look even better in person (but would prefer the dial without the stars and zulu time wording) so much so that I ordered the green dial.

Chronometer certified, 72 hour power reserve, quick release strap, micro adjustment on the deployment is amazing, not too large sitting on the wrist. This is going to be a massive hit for Longines.

 
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Not a brand that would usually be on my radar but saw the Zulu Time watch last week online and thought it was a winner. Called in to my AD to enquire about another watch and saw they stocked Longines so enquired about the ZT. By chance the Longines rep was in demoing the new releases.

Look even better in person (but would prefer the dial without the stars and zulu time wording) so much so that I ordered the green dial.

Chronometer certified, 72 hour power reserve, quick release strap, micro adjustment on the deployment is amazing, not too large sitting on the wrist. This is going to be a massive hit for Longines.

What size is your wrist? That looks quite smart in person.
 
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Refreshing to come on here and read some Longines news. I love vintage watches, both Omega and Longines, but I'd be willing to spring for some fresh new Longines for the menagerie here.
 
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With respect to brand heritage, an analogy is coming to mind. I am imagining a restaurant that has been in the same location for 100 years. For many of those years, the restaurant was reputed to serve incredible food. Recently, a new chef was hired and the food is no longer noteworthy. However, people still go to the restaurant because of its name and former reputation. Next door is another restaurant that opened 5 years ago. Though the staff are young, the food is exceptional. The recipes draw from many influences and are carefully executed. Despite positive reviews, many people are reluctant to try such a new restaurant.

Personally, the food/watch itself matters much more than the reputation/brand heritage, but I understand that this is a subjective matter.

It’s a cool analogy, however in this particular instance, while it’s too early to tell, it might well be that the new chef at the old restaurant is in fact bringing new inspiration to the kitchen.
 
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That Zulu Time is bang on. Well done Longines.
 
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Not a brand that would usually be on my radar but saw the Zulu Time watch last week online and thought it was a winner. Called in to my AD to enquire about another watch and saw they stocked Longines so enquired about the ZT. By chance the Longines rep was in demoing the new releases.

Look even better in person (but would prefer the dial without the stars and zulu time wording) so much so that I ordered the green dial.

Chronometer certified, 72 hour power reserve, quick release strap, micro adjustment on the deployment is amazing, not too large sitting on the wrist. This is going to be a massive hit for Longines.



That green looks pretty subtle, at least under store lights

did you have a chance to handle the black dial as well?
 
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It’s a cool analogy, however in this particular instance, while it’s too early to tell, it might well be that the new chef at the old restaurant is in fact bringing new inspiration to the kitchen.
Agreed.

For me, the decline of Longines began when they started to outsource movement production in the mid-20th century, but I understand that many factors led to that change. The more I think about it, the more I wonder whether a strong brand heritage dooms a company to repeat itself for fear of messing with a successful formula. I am reminded of Audemars Piguet's CODE 11.59, which was a radical departure from the venerable Royal Oak, that was very poorly received by the online watch world (at least). Maybe there is a hard line between hardcore enthusiasts who will always prefer the original/vintage (a minority of customers), and regular watch buyers who demand less consistency with past iterations of a brand (a majority of customers). I suppose that the ideal outcome would be to appeal to both, and Longines is arguably doing this already.
 
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That green looks pretty subtle, at least under store lights

did you have a chance to handle the black dial as well?

No, didn't see the black dial version
 
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Agreed.

For me, the decline of Longines began when they started to outsource movement production in the mid-20th century, but I understand that many factors led to that change. The more I think about it, the more I wonder whether a strong brand heritage dooms a company to repeat itself for fear of messing with a successful formula. I am reminded of Audemars Piguet's CODE 11.59, which was a radical departure from the venerable Royal Oak, that was very poorly received by the online watch world (at least). Maybe there is a hard line between hardcore enthusiasts who will always prefer the original/vintage (a minority of customers), and regular watch buyers who demand less consistency with past iterations of a brand (a majority of customers). I suppose that the ideal outcome would be to appeal to both, and Longines is arguably doing this already.

1/ outsourcing movement production - wasn’t it more around the 1970s or at least late 60s? The Valjoux 72 chronographs are from the 1970s and there are some 1960s or 1970s Longines conquest chronos still equipped with 30CH.

2/ agree on the fear to mess with a successful formula. That’s clearly what Von Kaenel said to me. Also Longines told me at the time they were the company that sold the most watches worldwide, so clearly they were doing something right.
Edited:
 
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1/ outsourcing movement production - wasn’t it more around the 1970s or at least late 60s? The Valjoux 72 chronographs are from the 1970s and there are some 1960s or 1970s Longines conquest chronos still equipped with 30CH.
Yes, I usually think of the transition from in-house to outsourced movements as occurring in the late 1960s and early 1970s. But I was looking at Patrick Linder's book yesterday and saw that Longines started using movements made by Felsa, Rayville, Piguet, and Cyma in the 1950s. As you mentioned, Longines was still producing its own high-quality movements into the late 1960s but I wonder if the writing was on the wall quite a few years earlier. Here is an 18K gold ref. 1403 Flagship from circa 1960 that used a Cyma cal. 480.


https://www.catawiki.com/en/l/32471...automatic-rose-gold-cal-380-ref-1403-men-1960
 
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📖
Longines started using movements made by Felsa, Rayville, Piguet, and Cyma in the 1950s.

Here is an 18K gold ref. 1403 Flagship from circa 1960 that used a Cyma cal. 480.


https://www.catawiki.com/en/l/32471...automatic-rose-gold-cal-380-ref-1403-men-1960
Wow I never realized! How interesting. You’ve gone much deeper into that book than I have (not surprisingly). 📖

PS come to think of it, that is highly interesting as it is yet another sign of how successful they were.
It must mean that the brand was so strong that it didn’t matter who made the inner parts-
They could delegate that to somebody else so long as the quality was in keeping with the brand name.
 
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PS come to think of it, that is highly interesting as it is yet another sign of how successful they were.
It must mean that the brand was so strong that it didn’t matter who made the inner parts-
They could delegate that to somebody else so long as the quality was in keeping with the brand name.
Agreed. I suppose they did it to keep up with demand? It would be neat to know Longines' cost of a watch like the one above compared to one with an in-house movement that was made concurrently (e.g. cal. 290).
 
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It’s a cool analogy, however in this particular instance, while it’s too early to tell, it might well be that the new chef at the old restaurant is in fact bringing new inspiration to the kitchen.

Let's hope so. But I doubt there are any Michelin stars in that chef's future...like the old place had in the past.
 
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Let's hope so. But I doubt there are any Michelin stars in that chef's future...like the old place had in the past.

That is another very eloquent way to put it and it’s quite possible, still I’m curious to see if there may be exciting items on the new menu.
 
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@Seiji found this very interesting document he posted on the MWR Forum. Aside from the fact it reveals accute world problems were already very clear 30 years ago, I find it very interesting that it too refers to “tradition and innovation”.

So clearly the new CEO is reclaiming a legacy which had somehow gotten lost along the way. I’d be curious what innovation there was at Longines in the 1990s. I wouldn’t be surprised if it weren’t already just marketing lingo back then.