Strategic changes at Longines

Syrte

PS a number of Longines watch enthusiasts have resented Swatch group for turning Omega into a luxury brand and relegating the historically more prestigious Longines brand to a lower marketing range.
However for an objective observer, you can’t argue with the choice to pick as a flagship the brand that went to the Moon.

This partnership again highlights that the Moon history is probably the most valuable asset in the Swatch group.

dsio

It’s a very valid point really but I think there is potential for that to change. Omega in the 90s was making almost all ETA powered watches in a price range not too far off where Longines is now but since going to in-house movements, ceramics and stepping up their finishing dramatically the price range is much higher (especially with the Speedmaster Pro getting a co-axial refresh).

There’s room for Longines to fill that large void that was left by the Omega of the 90s and 2000s, and let Tissot fill it’s current place.

If they just went the way of high end chronometer rated ETA movements across their range with better finishing it could do better justice to the brand and make it a really compelling choice.

Syrte

I think Longines is already moving in that direction by using some ETA movements which they say have been made or modified exclusively for Longines.

Also, there’s been a change of the guard at the helm of Longines, its marketing department and even its « Brand Heritage » department which was renamed « Branding and Heritage » department - a seemingly tiny but telling change.

Finally and significantly, the new CEO took his post talking about « innovation and tradition ». To me the word « innovation » is a huge change in vocabulary.

Longines’ motto is « elegance and tradition ». Longines was a powerhouse of technology in the 20th century, but as far as I know, there hasn’t been any « innovation » involved since 1967 or 1969- which is the year Longines filed a patent for the first ever quartz movement (the Longines Ultra Quartz) which they weren’t able to turn into a mass market.


Clearly the Swatch group chose Omega to innovate, and clearly assigned Longines to just replicate:

In 2018 Longines invited me to Basel World and I met then longtime CEO Walter Von Kaenel. i was very struck that he bristled when I asked him this very simple question: « what new things do you have cooking on the horizon for Longines ». He replied their clientele is a clientele that buys tradition, and that it would be out of the question for Longines to disturb its existing clientele and risk alienating them by changing things around and doing new things.
The depth of his conservatism stunned me— but it was consistent with the fact Omega was the Moon watch, the Longines brand was heavily focused on history as evidenced by its staffing.
History, not innovation, were at the core of the brand’s marketing and communication.


I also asked Von Kaenel tongue in cheek if they could make a 36mm green skin diver, again he bristled that green wasn’t a traditional color for the brand.

So to see suddenly « innovation » mentioned as a brand objective, together with THREE green watches being released (Legend Diver bronze), Hydroconquest, and Longines spirit) to me signals a major change.

here’s an excerpt from an interview Matthias Breschan gave after joining Longines:

« As already mentioned, our brand’s history is an invaluable asset. Our brand has always been based in the Swiss village of Saint-Imier and all its successive leaders were committed to preserve its heritage. Of course it’s not a question of limiting ourselves to our history, but of using it as a springboard to ensure the pursuit of innovation, both technical and aesthetical, which has always been the driving force of the brand. »

dsio

a much younger bloke, with a great deal of ambition

Syrte

Exactly. But Iet’s not get into ageism, your very own Rupert Murdoch is a powerful 80 year old, eand so are others in that age group. 😜

I don’t think it’s necessarily a matter of age- I think it’s also a matter of shift in strategy at the very top of the group. I think Swatch Group until now made innovation a no go zone for Longines because they wanted Omega to get the limelight.

Syrte

Reposting here a discussion which started in the Omega Moonswatch thread- it was a bit of a thread drift there but the eelease clearly involves an entire group strategy.
https://omegaforums.net/threads/what’s-happening-on-march-26th-then.143522/page-56

Syrte

I’m curious to know more about the technical superiority of the silicone hairspring Longines’ CEO is referring to.

DirtyDozen12

in contrast to most mainstream Swiss brands that emphasize power reserve and COSC certification. It is difficult to imagine Longines becoming more like Nomos in either of these two areas as their current strategy seems to be working/

Syrte

Well, that does make sense if indeed a majority of (male) buyers prefer to focus on measurements

cvalue13

Their newest offerings caught my attention for the first time I can remember, especially that Zulu

Their prior “heritage” models felt stuck in early-2000’s aesthetics, whereas the newer offerings feel like a leap forward

Syrte

I’’m glad they also seem to be making smaller watches with a new Longines spirit at 37mm although that’s still too big for a woman - at least for me I would much prefer 34mm.

Syrte

I’’m glad they also seem to be making smaller watches with a new Longines spirit at 37mm although that’s still too big for a woman - at least for me I would much prefer 34mm.