I agree it would be different - there would be zero access to parts. No dealer selling watches is going to want to be involved in ordering and shipping tens of thousands of small parts per year to people asking to buy them. This is why watch material suppliers existed, to coordinate that activity through one place.
There was a time when watch companies would send watchmakers parts they wrote in asking for, free of charge. But it was apparent that the Swiss industry in particular employed monopolistic practices, and by 1960 they and the industry associations were considered a cartel by the US government, and a consent decree was imposed.
Back in 2006, Rolex applied to have this consent decree removed - information here:
https://www.justice.gov/atr/case-do...-motion-rolex-watch-usa-inc-order-terminating
The final agreement has Rolex paying $750,000 to cover costs. Essentially, this removed the restrictions on Rolex to limit the supply of parts.
Curiously, the AWCI (originally the AWA back in 1960) - the trade organization representing watchmakers in the US, agreed to this. This seems rather strange considering that this group represents watchmakers, and to be honest the membership were not pleased. However, the AWCI was working with Rolex to develop the CW21 at this time, and not long after the consent decree was removed in 2007, Rolex announced that all watchmakers with a parts account had to become CW21 certified by the end of 2010, or they would lose their accounts.
If it strikes you as maybe a bit strange that the AWCI agreed to this against the wishes of the membership, then benefitted from it, you are not alone. Everyone was required to take the 4 day long test, and these were held at AWCI headquarters near Cincinnati - you had to pay for the test, pay for the travel and lodging, and you lost a week of income. They also ran refresher courses to prepare watchmakers for the exams. I was in many of those classes, and all the watchmakers with parts accounts were shitting bricks because they knew they would likely be out of business if they lost their accounts. They were also very bitter that their own organization was involved in the removal of the consent decree.
The AWCI said that other brands were going to adopt this standard, but none other than Rolex ever did. When I was at Swatch in NJ for training on servicing the co-axial escapement in 2012, someone in the class asked the instructor about Swatch adopting the CW21. I'll not forget the response:
"That's got nothing to do with us. That's a Rolex thing."
When everyone who was going to take the test had taken it, revenue started drying up, and the AWCI implemented (tried to anyway) continuing education requirements to retain your certification, that were not originally there when the process started. Most people just ignored them.
More recently, Rolex has started closing all these accounts. In all Rolex agreements, there is this clause:
"Both the parts account and Rolex are free, at any time and for any reason, to discontinue their business relationship, without cause and without prior notice."
So Rolex played the long game, and the AWCI got played, and US watchmakers paid the price for it.
Subsequent to the removal of the consent decree, Cartier was sued by a watchmaker in California...
https://www.plainsite.org/dockets/i...t/fleury-et-al-v-cartier-international-et-al/
This time the AWCI officially stayed "neutral" however one of the past presidents took Cartier's side. There was a settlement, and Cartier was ordered to provide parts accounts, but they ended up having very onerous requirements - pages and pages of requirements that went above and beyond anything any brand has ever required previously. Only 9 parts accounts were ever granted...
Anyone who thinks these brands don't play hardball on this stuff, is being very naïve.
Cheers, Al