Ladies Omega Dynamic 684

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-j[/QUOTE]
It is placed onto the movement first. If you look you can see matching indentations. The movement is rotated to lock it in. There is a thread somewhere that details this. I think it is in the watchmaking section. Many of the frontloader cases work this way. I marked the key way in your photograph.


-j

If it's placed on the movement first, then the movement won’t go in the space at the angle required before rotation, surely?
 
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for what its worth I didnt see any such seal on the seamaster cosmic that loads in the same manner, however I also dont know who else had been inside of this watch in the 50 odd years of its life before it came to my bench...

You really do find some strange happenings inside of old watches sometimes.
 
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for what its worth I didnt see any such seal on the seamaster cosmic that loads in the same manner, however I also dont know who else had been inside of this watch in the 50 odd years of its life before it came to my bench...

You really do find some strange happenings inside of old watches sometimes.

I can understand Manufacturers using the same case for different models, but it doesn't help us later with solving the puzzle.
 
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As in I don't think there is any additional half moon shaped part required in this case.
 
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I can understand Manufacturers using the same case for different models, but it doesn't help us later with solving the puzzle.
Not quite sure what the puzzle is. If you mean the seal, I am looking at my spare case, the slot I marked is undercut. Did you search for other threads on this? I am sure there is one somewhere I saw recently that details this exact question.
I remembered the key word 'goop' here is the link to that thread and the images I remembered.
https://omegaforums.net/threads/ome...tem-hands-and-wedge-woes.107773/#post-1415140
-j
 
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interesting, I had never seen these parts, I guess cutting one from a slice of delerin wouldn't be too challenging.
 
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Not quite sure what the puzzle is. If you mean the seal, I am at my spare case, the slot I marked is undercut. Did you search for other threads on this? I am sure there is one somewhere I saw recently that details this exact question.
I remembered the key word 'goop' here is the link to that thread and the images I remembered.
https://omegaforums.net/threads/ome...tem-hands-and-wedge-woes.107773/#post-1415140
-j

I have read the article, but my point is the movement goes in with the stem at 2 o'clock and then rotates to 3 o'clock, that's a given. How does the stem fit in the wedge space with wedge fitted and then rotate. If it can rotate with wedge fitted, then the wedge won't stop the movement moving, will it? Just my logic.

I could certainly see an advantage of fitting a tube over the movement stem which allowed access for the crown stem, but would prevent the movement sliding round when the stems joints are horizontal with the case. When the stems are connected, you can see that when horizontal the movement could clearly slide out of the slot back to the 2 o'clock position.
Edited:
 
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I have read the article, but my point is the movement goes in with the stem at 2 o'clock and then rotates to 3 o'clock, that's a given. How does the stem fit in the wedge space with wedge fitted and then rotate. If it can rotate with wedge fitted, then the wedge won't stop the movement moving, will it? Just my logic.

I could certainly see an advantage of fitting a tube over the movement stem which allowed access for the crown stem, but would prevent the movement sliding round when the stems joints are horizontal with the case. When the stems are connected, you can see that when horizontal the movement could clearly slide out of the slot back to the 2 o'clock position.

The crystal holds the dial and movement in place.

The wedge prevents slop in the crown and stem from causing the two parts of the split stem to slide apart.
 
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The crystal holds the dial and movement in place.

The wedge prevents slop in the crown and stem from causing the two parts of the split stem to slide apart.

Thank you for the confirmation, I had come to that conclusion but only by deduction and logic.
 
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An update for followers:

I addressed the crystal locking ring looking too bulky by making a second one with a 45 degree angle on the face and I think it does look a lot better. Further polishing could even reflect the dial colour. I still think I could make it thinner but not forgetting this dial is quite marked up on the face.

My next issue is that the watch was missing its calendar trigger gear, which I managed to obtain from the bay for not too much cost. But as you can see from the attached photo it does not fully trigger the next date!!! is this a common problem.
 
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Do you have a photo of the calendar works assembled under the dial?
 
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Just enjoying the conversation, and appreciating the skill set / mechanical intuition you all possess.

🍿
 
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Calendar works under the dial:

As you can see one of the screws is not correct, could that be causing the problem?

Also added is the trace from the time grapher, adjusted but no service yet.
Edited:
 
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Just enjoying the conversation, and appreciating the skill set / mechanical intuition you all possess.

🍿
Your welcome, enjoy. This watch should have gone in the bin according to the purists. But I like a challenge, if I can get it functional and useable for next to no money but a little skill, then that's my enjoyment too and I am still learning this craft of watch repairs.
 
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Wow, is this the going rate for a second hand?......something else to make.

It is for what is clearly a Speedmaster hand on the secondary market, that someone is going to use to make a fake Ultraman and possibly dupe someone into paying many thousands of dollars extra for. But that's not the hand you need (wrong colour, wrong movement, wrong length) so making one would be a waste of time and energy. Yours is part number 066TP1413, and it's blue.
 
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It is for what is clearly a Speedmaster hand on the secondary market, that someone is going to use to make a fake Ultraman and possibly dupe someone into paying many thousands of dollars extra for. But that's not the hand you need (wrong colour, wrong movement, wrong length) so making one would be a waste of time and energy. Yours is part number 066TP1413, and it's blue.

Archer
As ever your insight and knowledge is truly enlightening me. I put the bay item on here as I was just shocked at the price, but clearly understand your point now and the reasoning behind it, It's a sad world we live in sometimes. As for my watch, I'm not trying to fool anyone and won't be spending; much-if any, money on making it usable, I just feel sad that old un-loved movements; of good quality, get thrown away because they don't come up to scratch or are uneconomical to restore to the purists standards.
 
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Thinned down the crystal fixing ring so it doesn't look so intrusive. First build up and all good. I'll run it for a day or so and then check timing. Then strip and service and meanwhile I'll sort out the second hand.