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How to evaluate a watchmaker?

TDBK
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I'm meeting with a watchmaker this week as a possible new place to send my watches. What suggestions do you have on how to evaluate a watchmaker for skills, competence, and the other criteria which make them a good or a bad watchmaker? What questions should I ask, what things should I look for, etc.?

Some of my initial thoughts:
  • A general assessment of shop cleanliness, organization, etc.
  • Ask around experience: years of watch repair, training (I don't know how to evaluate this, though)
  • For what brands they have a parts account or access to same
  • Do they have ability to source parts for watches which are no longer in the supply chain
  • Cost and time for various repairs
  • Do they seem willing to take instruction (e.g. "no polish") or do they give an air of not wanting customer direction
What else would you ask or look for? What are good vs. bad answers to these? What are your horror stories of failing to identify a bad watchmaker experience until it's too late?

I'm sure that in the end, there's no comparison for practical experience, but I'd like a faster and cheaper way to evaluate than "send them a few watches and see what you think of the results".

Thanks!
 
staristheanswer
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I don't know how to evaluate a watchmaker...my comment is about the picture of your avatar...
Once upon in America?
 
BlackTalon
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Your initial criteria is good. And if you get a good feeling from the watchmaker during your visit, then post on OF, WUS, etc. and ask if anyone has personal experience with that person/ shop.
 
ICONO
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Just have a friendly conversation…& show respect

Be as open & honest, as you would hope he is

Ask for references from regular clients…someone to verify Workmanship or complexity …if he is offended…red Flag !

Trust your judgement…Do you have confidence in this Man ?
 
Syrte
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The two criteria I would deem relevant are 1/ are they recommended by people you trust and do they work with many like minded collectors 2/ whether he’s responsive to requests such as « do not polish ». Another critical factoe is how transparent they are with what needs to be done, willing to give you an early estimate of how much work needs to be done on your watch based on an initial inspection.
Also if he’s willing to inspect watches and not necessarily push you to service them (that depends on the watch of course), you know he’s not out to fleece you and that’s a very good step toward building trust.
Some well known watchmakers take a long time - and that’s a matter of personal choice if you can put up with it.

As for shop orderliness, mine has a shop which looks like a bazaar, as a matter of fact he even lost a gasket of mine somewhere in there- but he’s still such a terrific guy I forgave him.
You need to be able to trust he didn’t cut corners in doing what you’re paying him for.
 
Braindrain
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As others said, your initial criteria is a good starting point.

Talk to the guy. Ask him about some challenging repairs, most interesting mvmt, etc.

Lastly, as for training, ideal would be Swiss/British Horological Institute trained.
 
S.H.
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Syrte Syrte
As for shop orderliness, mine has a shop which looks like a bazaar, as a matter of fact he even lost a gasket of mine somewhere in there- but he’s still such a terrific guy I forgave him.
You need to be able to trust he didn’t cut corners in doing what you’re paying him for.

Yes shop orderliness is not a reliable indicator. A colleague of mine does a constantly good job in a seemingly very disorganized mess. Another guy I know has a really nice workshop, you could eat on the floor. And I would not give him anything to repair, he fucks up on a regular basis (wrong gasket, hands that touch the dial, broken parts, he even tried to persuade somebody that his watch was not missing its regulator arm assembly : of course it did, he ended up cutting the hairspring to regulate the watch; unbelievable but true).

Speak to the guy, good things happen when the customer trust the repairman, and vice versa. Give him a basic thing to do first.
 
Larry S
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Good list ... yelps and google reviews are also instructive. Ask for references. Source and fabricate is a key skill. Ask if he has experience with pocket watches, antique watches and UG chronographs.
 
Oku
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TDBK TDBK
Some of my initial thoughts:
  • Ask around experience: years of watch repair, training (I don't know how to evaluate this, though)
  • For what brands they have a parts account or access to same
  • Do they have ability to source parts for watches which are no longer in the supply chain
  • Cost and time for various repairs
  • Do they seem willing to take instruction (e.g. "no polish") or do they give an air of not wanting customer direction
I could name you a watchmaker who would answer all these questions perfectly to your satisfaction.
Unfortunately, he could destroy your watch as his talking abilities are much higher than his professional ones...

Just ask him if he services fly back chronos (or other complicated stuff like tourbillons, rattrapantes etc.) as well as big clocks. Usually, a good watchmaker won't unless you are a good friend.
 
michael22
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Syrte Syrte
The two criteria I would deem relevant are 1/ are they recommended by people you trust and do they work with many like minded collectors 2/ whether he’s responsive to requests such as « do not polish ». Another critical factoe is how transparent they are with what needs to be done, willing to give you an early estimate of how much work needs to be done on your watch based on an initial inspection.
Also if he’s willing to inspect watches and not necessarily push you to service them (that depends on the watch of course), you know he’s not out to fleece you and that’s a very good step toward building trust.
Some well known watchmakers take a long time - and that’s a matter of personal choice if you can put up with it.

As for shop orderliness, mine has a shop which looks like a bazaar, as a matter of fact he even lost a gasket of mine somewhere in there- but he’s still such a terrific guy I forgave him.
You need to be able to trust he didn’t cut corners in doing what you’re paying him for.
I picked one like this. A husband & wife business, without extra employees to stuff things up. He rings up to confirm what I do & don't want.
I decided to avoid larger ops, with an arrogant front man & nameless workers out the back with high overheads.
 
perks713
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My method was to find the most respected watch maker on the forum and send him an email every few months until he had time in his busy work load to take on my sad excuse for a collectible watch 😉

Honestly though, the only thing I'd add to your original list is asking about their vintage watch work. Finding out if they appreciate vintage pieces, to me, it's a lot easier to trust someone not to try and clean up a piece more then you want if you know they have a love for the original craftsmanship. Even if you're sending them something you don't consider vintage. I think it's worth knowing that they aren't going to polish a case so that it looks clean because they would prefer to see the piece kept original.
 
sdre
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I've began sourcing for other watchmakers to take care of my watches. My usual one, well, I think its better to have 1 watchmaker just in case.

Found a couple, but yeah usually its by word of mouth, and by friend's referral. Also what they have done before and how direct/honest they are.

There are some watchmakers I heard, that they swap out parts from yours to sell on open market. That's crazy.
 
dsio
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My method is in general ask around other collectors and even other watchmakers, I found my best guy because I took a Cal 320 with some destroyed inner pushers that was basically a basket case to 3-4 different guys and each of them saw it and just realised it wasn't an economically viable or realistic job for them to take on due to its age and unavailability of parts, and two said there's a guy that has a dumpy little hole in the wall shop in a basement nearby that handles all of the basket case, part manufacturing required and overflow work for the major players because they know he's the best.
 
STANDY
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Treat him like any other tradesman you deal with. And do the same due diligence you would with any other tradesman.

As above ask around.

Third degree any tradesman and watch the "This guys gunna be a pain in the arse" look you get 😉
 
Edward53
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This thread has started a song in my head. Blast you, OP!

 
many
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S.H. S.H.
of course it did, he ended up cutting the hairspring to regulate the watch; unbelievable but true).

Holy crap... that is insane.
 
arturo7
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Just went through this thread, plenty of good advice here. But there isn't much said about equipment and tools.

Assuming you can see the work area, are there certain pieces of gear that you would expect a qualified repair shop to have available?
 
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