Help identifying correct bracelet/end links for Seamaster 168.022

blacksharpie · Feb 19, 2017

After a long hunt, I finally tracked down a silver radial-dial, orange second hand Seamaster 168.022. The seller's photos had it on a crappy Speidle stretch bracelet but I was after the watch so I didn't really care. I was really happy when I opened the box and found, thrown in, a 1039 bracelet. Now I'm obsessed with getting the original bracelet on this watch.

I'm assuming the 1039 is original to the watch but it's missing the end links and enough extension links to actually make it wearable.

I've exhausted my resources about determining what this watch came on originally. So, before I potentially spin my wheels finding the missing parts to make the 1039 bracelet wearable two questions:

1) Is the 1039 indeed the correct bracelet for this reference/year? (seems to match in terms of serial number 28984xxx vs the 1039 stamp of 2/68
2) If so, what would be the correct 19mm end links?

I've attached photos of the watch and bracelet.

Thanks in advance for all of OF's expertise.

mondodec · Feb 19, 2017

Sadly, it looks to me like a bit of a franken there, as the 168.022 should have a chronometer grade caliber 564 under the bonnet. Whole movement and dial may have been exchanged. The lug size is 19mm, and any accessorising with bracelets, except on the 18k gold version, would have been done at retail end or later. If seeking a stainless bracelet, you need also to be careful with end-pieces so they fit snugly into the curve of the case.

Trail and error methinks.

Cheers

Desmond

blacksharpie · Feb 20, 2017

mondodec
Sadly, it looks to me like a bit of a franken there, as the 168.022 should have a chronometer grade caliber 564 under the bonnet. Whole movement and dial may have been exchanged.

I've seen enough of these around that I'm certain it's not a franken and that both dial and movement are original to the watch. Also, all cal. 564's seem have a signed "chronometer" dial.

Here's an identical one that was sold here.
A fairly recent eBay auction.

Anyway, anyone with any info on bracelet?

TNTwatch · Feb 20, 2017

This is a case with dual references. One is 168.022 for the chronometer variance. The other is 166.028 that can be seen below the CB trade mark on the OP caseback. This is for the none-chronometer variance.

blacksharpie · Feb 20, 2017

TNTwatch
This is a case with dual references. One is 168.022 for the chronometer variance. The other is 166.028 that can be seen below the CB trade mark on the OP caseback. This is for the none-chronometer variance.

So the actual reference for this watch is 166.028? That makes sense. Thanks.

mondodec · Feb 20, 2017

Agreed. OP misidentified the watch as a 168 instead of a 166 non chronometer model. I couldnt see the faint stamp below that of 168.022. This applies also to the eBay item cited. It is a 166.028.

OP I have already suggested to you that there is no correct bracelet for this watch, although one that did fit it and was available at point of sale was bracelet ST 1069/524

TNTwatch
This is a case with dual references. One is 168.022 for the chronometer variance. The other is 166.028 that can be seen below the CB trade mark on the OP caseback. This is for the none-chronometer variance.

blacksharpie · Feb 20, 2017

mondodec
OP I have already suggested to you that there is no correct bracelet for this watch, although one that did fit it and was available at point of sale was bracelet ST 1069/524

Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.

TNTwatch · Feb 20, 2017

Beside the 1069, the 1125 is also commonly equipped on this Seamaster style. 19mm end links 617 and 560 are good for the 1125.

ahsposo · Feb 20, 2017

Here's a similar cased watch: 166.032 with 19mm lugs. I have fitted a 1098 bracelet with 540 end pieces.

Shibata · Feb 20, 2017

Agreed... 166.028 is correct. I have the same one. Here is a thread I started a little while back when I got it.
https://omegaforums.net/threads/my-first-vintage-omega-incoming.50078/

I wish my hands were in as good condition as blacksharpie's.

That 1098 bracelet looks great!!

vintage hab · Jan 28, 2021

I have a 168.022. I'd love to put a BoR bracelet on it. There's a great resource here of official Omega bracelets:
https://omegaforums.net/threads/case-bracelet-endpiece-list.81618/
but none of these are BoR.

1. Anyone know of an Omega BoR 19mm that would fit?
2. Uncle Seiko has a nice 19mm BoR for FOIS, but I don't know if the endlinks will fit properly. Is there a resource with actual dimensions of the endlinks so that I could compare?

masteroftime · Jan 28, 2021

vintage hab
I have a 168.022. I'd love to put a BoR bracelet on it. There's a great resource here of official Omega bracelets:
https://omegaforums.net/threads/case-bracelet-endpiece-list.81618/
but none of these are BoR.

1. Anyone know of an Omega BoR 19mm that would fit?
2. Uncle Seiko has a nice 19mm BoR for FOIS, but I don't know if the endlinks will fit properly. Is there a resource with actual dimensions of the endlinks so that I could compare?

I've actually been thinking about this recently after seeing a few 168.022/166.028's on Omega 9-row BOR bracelets. That is definitely possible and looks good, but I'm unsure of the proper endlinks. Are you only looking for a 7-row BOR? if not, I'll check if any of my 9 row endlinks fit.

vintage hab · Jan 29, 2021

masteroftime
I've actually been thinking about this recently after seeing a few 168.022/166.028's on Omega 9-row BOR bracelets. That is definitely possible and looks good, but I'm unsure of the proper endlinks. Are you only looking for a 7-row BOR? if not, I'll check if any of my 9 row endlinks fit.

I prefer the 7-row, but beggars can't be choosers, so any info you may have on the 9-row would be appreciated.

Wlcutter · Jan 29, 2021

vintage hab
I prefer the 7-row, but beggars can't be choosers, so any info you may have on the 9-row would be appreciated.

The 555 end link is for 9-row BOR bracelets and is 19mm; presumably they'd fit.

masteroftime · Jan 29, 2021

vintage hab
I prefer the 7-row, but beggars can't be choosers, so any info you may have on the 9-row would be appreciated.

Unfortunately, the endlinks that I had were for flatter cases and didn't fit that well. The endlinks that I found that actually fit best (of the three types that I have), are the aftermarket 19mm endlinks that come with the fake BOR bracelets from China (About $20 with bracelet from Aliexpress). They worked with my real BOR and fit alright. They would be better if you're crafty and willing to bend them to shape/lug curve. Might be something to consider if you have or can get a BOR and are searching for endlinks.

SkunkPrince · Jan 29, 2021

1067/532
1069/524
1098//540
1125/538

Since none of these are BOR, might try an Uncle Seiko and see if it fits?

shatterstate · Jan 29, 2021

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1H5aOPD8jKNy8oNPBVyONGb-thVc8l2Qa/view

Reposting this from member Passover. This helped me match up the bracelet and end links that correspond to your watch ref.

vintage hab · Apr 8, 2021

I finally was able to get everything together: I found an affordable 1068 BoR bracelet on eBay and purchased the 19mm endlinks from Omega. Thanks to @Lucasssssss and @zoohannover for their advice. Here are pics of before and after.

I do find the bracelet is stretched and doesn't look as good. I may try to find a link or two to add, but then it may be too loose. Anyone have thoughts on this? Thx.

MtV · Apr 8, 2021

You can micro-adjust the length in the clasp. The steps in the clasp are smaller than a full link, so get another link and if it’s too loose just attach the bracelet not to the last position in the clasp but the one before.

By the way, which endlinks are these, 517? 😀

vintage hab · Apr 8, 2021

I understand the micro adjustment on the clasp, but I’m concerned that if I add a link to make all the links “close together” (have less stretch), that the bracelet can stretch back open and be loose. Not sure if I explained it correctly... but does that make sense?

endlinks are 556

Help identifying correct bracelet/end links for Seamaster 168.022

blacksharpie

mondodec

blacksharpie

TNTwatch

blacksharpie

mondodec

blacksharpie

TNTwatch

ahsposo

Shibata

vintage hab

masteroftime

vintage hab

Wlcutter

masteroftime

SkunkPrince

shatterstate

vintage hab

MtV

vintage hab

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