Do No Harm…Another expensive lesson…

Larry S · Apr 3, 2023

I’m 0 for 2 with sourcing watch parts myself. My watchmaker is much more successful of course. First it was a pricey non returnable oversized gold UG leaf hand that didn’t fit. This time I was offered a flat foot crown for my 2998-6. Wasn’t cheap. Took it to my Omega Certified watchmaker. Nope, threads were bad, not only that, in the process of putting the current service crown back….well, 50 bucks later, I have a new stem and a shiny NEW Omega service crown. (Yes I saw the packaging) While he was working he mentioned that my story was hardly the first. (Yes, I have contacted the seller)

Whats the lesson here? In this latest case, wear parts like crowns and stems are just that. They are meant to be changed out and pitched. Its like trying to buy vintage brake pads for an old car or something to that effect.

In the case of the UG hand, well I may just put it up some day in parts sales or offer it to some of our brethren to see if they have a use. Clearly it didn't fit the caliber it was bought for so process of elimination.

Good thing I didn’t get into this thing of ours to make money!

Evitzee · Apr 3, 2023

Larry S
Whats the lesson here? In this latest case, wear parts like crowns and stems are just that. They are meant to be changed out and pitched. We all know that right? RIGHT?

The lesson here is we shouldn't be so hung up on the 'all original, untouched' idea of vintage watches. Watches were practical items meant to be used and were repaired when they broke down, or needed cleaning. Replacement parts, some refinishing of the case, and often a new/reprinted dial were considered normal and desirable, owners didn't want a shabby looking watch when they got it back from the jewelry store or watch repairer. Now, if a watch has seen too much of a Selvyt cloth it is considered 'polished' and not desirable.

redpcar · Apr 3, 2023

Is the UG hand too big or too small for the post? Or is the physical size wrong?

140dave · Apr 3, 2023

Larry S
Whats the lesson here? In this latest case, wear parts like crowns and stems are just that. They are meant to be changed out and pitched. Its like trying to buy vintage break pads for an old car or something to that effect.

Good thing I didn’t get into this thing of ours to make money!

Yeah, I have had one or two similar experiences. The other thing to remember is the older a part is the more likely it needed to be replaced, not just as a matter of course like many do today to keep to modern standards. (Might have been the old standards too but many more independents in the day that may or may not have done it to factory specs, now they are afraid that Omega will take their parts account away)

..and wait a sec...you're not making a ton of money flipping watches??? I thought watches were a sure fire investment? I read that somewhere.... 😉
lol

Larry S · Apr 3, 2023

140dave
Yeah, I have had one or two similar experiences. The other thing to remember is the older a part is the more likely it needed to be replaced, not just as a matter of course like many do today to keep to modern standards. (Might have been the old standards too but many more independents in the day that may or may not have done it to factory specs, now they are afraid that Omega will take their parts account away)

..and wait a sec...you're not making a ton of money flipping watches??? I thought watches were a sure fire investment? I read that somewhere.... 😉
lol

Its like the old joke about a bike shop…”Want to make a million owning a bike shop?” “Invest 3 million.”

Duracuir1 · Apr 3, 2023

I wear my flightmaster a lot. I am glad I followed the watchmaker’s advice to get new crowns. Less chance of moisture getting in.

Larry S · Apr 3, 2023

redpcar
Is the UG hand too big or too small for the post? Or is the physical size wrong?

Did not fit Cal 287 …Post issue. My watch maker reshaped a UG baton hand for me. Works well.

Archer · Apr 3, 2023

140dave
Might have been the old standards too but many more independents in the day that may or may not have done it to factory specs, now they are afraid that Omega will take their parts account away

Just FYI - Omega doesn't mandate that I change any parts. Omega certified watchmakers can leave a vintage crown on if they want, and not fear the Omega reaper will be at their doorstep that night...

Arancio601 · Apr 3, 2023

Larry S
I’m 0 for 2 with sourcing watch parts myself. My watchmaker is much more successful of course. First it was a pricey non returnable oversized gold UG leaf hand that didn’t fit. This time I was offered a flat foot crown for my 2998-6. Wasn’t cheap. Took it to my Omega Certified watchmaker. Nope, threads were bad, not only that, in the process of putting the current service crown back….well, 50 bucks later, I have a new stem and a shiny NEW Omega service crown. (Yes I saw the packaging) While he was working he mentioned that my story was hardly the first. (Yes, I have contacted the seller)

Whats the lesson here? In this latest case, wear parts like crowns and stems are just that. They are meant to be changed out and pitched. Its like trying to buy vintage break pads for an old car or something to that effect.

In the case of the UG hand, well I may just put it up some day in parts sales or offer it to some of our brethren to see if they have a use. Clearly it didn't fit the caliber it was bought for so process of elimination.

Good thing I didn’t get into this thing of ours to make money!

Thanks Larry this was timely for me to read as I try to find original parts for a couple of projects. Particularly when it comes to ‘working’ parts I think I will have a more practical approach. Those pesky flat foot crowns can really break the bank!

So no more looking for secondhand parts that might not be useable, I am going to buy NOS!!!😉

josiahg52 · Apr 3, 2023

I'm ambivalent regarding crowns these days but wish there were a surefire way to recover them. Speedmaster pushers, however, I care much more about. Counting knurls or spotting which logo the crown is signed with is difficult but the pushers are part of the look to me.

Larry S · Apr 3, 2023

Co

Arancio601
Thanks Larry this was timely for me to read as I try to find original parts for a couple of projects. Particularly when it comes to ‘working’ parts I think I will have a more practical approach. Those pesky flat foot crowns can really break the bank!

So no more looking for secondhand parts that might not be useable, I am going to buy NOS!!!😉

Consider it a public service announcement!

sdre · Apr 3, 2023

Wonder if anyone tire from vintage watches in this case? I've done a fair bit of legwork servicing my UG polerouters (from where i am from, almost no one services micro-rotors), stems etc.

Hell even vintage Seiko chronographs are notoriously difficult to service with the certain era/models are more prone to overwinding/wear and tear because of plastic parts....

I got so tired with dealing with vintage watches that I'm almost sticking to modern pieces simply that its far easier to service/maintain.

I don't know how you guys dont suffer fatigue from this.

pdxleaf · Apr 3, 2023

sdre
Wonder if anyone tire from vintage watches in this case? I've done a fair bit of legwork servicing my UG polerouters (from where i am from, almost no one services micro-rotors), stems etc.

Hell even vintage Seiko chronographs are notoriously difficult to service with the certain era/models are more prone to overwinding/wear and tear because of plastic parts....

I got so tired with dealing with vintage watches that I'm almost sticking to modern pieces simply that its far easier to service/maintain.

I don't know how you guys dont suffer fatigue from this.

Pretty sure a lot of people have sworn off vintage watches multiple times.

Larry S · Apr 3, 2023

sdre
Wonder if anyone tire from vintage watches in this case? I've done a fair bit of legwork servicing my UG polerouters (from where i am from, almost no one services micro-rotors), stems etc.

Hell even vintage Seiko chronographs are notoriously difficult to service with the certain era/models are more prone to overwinding/wear and tear because of plastic parts....

I got so tired with dealing with vintage watches that I'm almost sticking to modern pieces simply that its far easier to service/maintain.

I don't know how you guys dont suffer fatigue from this.

See @Evitzee comment. Gotta say, my watchmaker has been heroic with PR issues but basically hates them. Can rebuild a complex antique chronograph, UG, Longines etc. in his sleep.

JwRosenthal · Apr 3, 2023

sdre
Wonder if anyone tire from vintage watches in this case? I've done a fair bit of legwork servicing my UG polerouters (from where i am from, almost no one services micro-rotors), stems etc.

Hell even vintage Seiko chronographs are notoriously difficult to service with the certain era/models are more prone to overwinding/wear and tear because of plastic parts....

I got so tired with dealing with vintage watches that I'm almost sticking to modern pieces simply that its far easier to service/maintain.

I don't know how you guys dont suffer fatigue from this.

Parts availability hasn’t played as much into my choices as much as finding competent watchmakers and weighing the cost of the labor vs the value of the watch or my love for the watch. I was far more cavalier buying projects when I was paying $150 for a service and I would source the parts.
Where buying/living with vintage became an issue for me was when my wife would come to me with a lovely vintage piece I bought for her and it had stopped running. The disappointment in her face crushed me.

sheepdoll · Apr 3, 2023

Larry S
See @Evitzee comment. Gotta say, my watchmaker has been heroic with PR issues but basically hates them. Can rebuild a complex antique chronograph, UG, Longines etc. in his sleep.

Yeah, When you start playing with these things One starts dreaming about them.

In an ideal world the manufactures would supply materials to the distributors so that small independents can do the work. Problem was that such was abused with some building whole watches out of spare parts. In theory the better service providers would would benefit from performing the better job. In practice the cheap cut rate providers tended to undercut or even cheat on the work.

If it takes two years to train a competent service worker, That worker is only going to work on the high end stuff. Probably be really persnickety about what they touch.

There needs to be some sort of middle ground. There are plenty of YT entertainers out there. Like most things the interest is a passing fancy. No one wants to commit to something and miss out on the next big thing. Which is just around the corner. Watchwork takes a certain amount of attention span. Those of us who are empassioned tend to do what it takes to find the needed parts. Or projects.

The sheer numbers of variations are overwhelming. I got caught up with Landeron and A Schild. Mostly because these are cheap and available. Massive amounts of parts were made. If I had my druthers I would rather work on Omega and Lemania. (With a partiality to Valjoux.

There is a bit of irony that most watches are assembled by women. Yet the archetypal watchmaker is usually male. One seems to want one who is older nearing retirement age, with a slight foreign accent. Most of the ones I have met do seem to be immigrants, which seems to get them treated as cheap labor.

What seems to be forgotten, is a good one has to run a business. I collected a lot of trade magazines from the 1950s/1960 through the 1980s. The early ones are full of great technical articles. (well the practices are not up to modern snuff, but they are entertaining.) The later ones have columns like "The jeweler and the law." This makes it almost imperative that in order to run a buisness one has to pretty much have a law degree. Not to mention have deep pockets in which to deal with things like insurance and other such things.

A lot of the old articles in the trades, did address the subjects of comebacks where the repair was not what was expected. On the other hand they did want the customer to visit when the time was right. A delicate balance.

I suspect there are a half dozen or so watch repair places within 10 or 15 miles of here. Most are in hardware stores, the mall or consignment shops. Expand that to 40 miles and one covers the big city as well. Could be 50 to 100 for all I know. I personally have visited 3 of them in the recent years. Usually there is a line. Often there is a person waiting to drop off or pick up a Rolex. Does make one wonder about the reliability of such, If they need constant servicing and repair.

sdre · Apr 4, 2023

Larry S
See @Evitzee comment. Gotta say, my watchmaker has been heroic with PR issues but basically hates them. Can rebuild a complex antique chronograph, UG, Longines etc. in his sleep.

Guess it must be my watch cliche then. Most of them swear by originality / condition / period correctness

Larry S · Apr 4, 2023

sdre
Guess it must be my watch cliche then. Most of them swear by originality / condition / period correctness

My guy brought one of mine back from the dead. It took him the better part of a year to source a new rotor and a few other parts. He does Patek work so he knows micro rotors. He told me that the UG design is not efficient. That said the watch works fine now.

Larry S · Apr 4, 2023

Postscript…. Got a refund from the seller of the crown. Much appreciated.

OllieOnTheRocks · Apr 4, 2023

I generally try to rely on my own measurements using different gauges to ascertain part sizes and careful examination that proportions are correct. Eg, if the hand gauge says I need this size hole, I’ll measure on my dial to see the length I need and then compare the hand for sale with the one in a correct example - and then if all adds up then I purchase it. So far I’ve had good results with this process. But it requires you to have a few tools.

Do No Harm…Another expensive lesson…

Larry S

Evitzee

redpcar

140dave

Larry S

Duracuir1

Larry S

Archer

Arancio601

josiahg52

Larry S

sdre

pdxleaf

Larry S

JwRosenthal

sheepdoll

sdre

Larry S

Larry S

OllieOnTheRocks

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