Do any of you size your own Omega bracelets?

schoolboy

Interesting.

I agree, wrist shape can play a big part here. My wrist is shaped so that the watch case kind of tilts to the outside of the wrist. So on my Rolex and Seiko I usually keep the 6 oclock side shorter (if both sides can't be had equal) and it seems like it helps.

I just assumed it would be the same across all brands. That's why your comment about Rolex vs Omega caught me by surprise. Thanks for sharing your perspective.

janice&fred

Even closer if you get to wearing it.

Gruesome

*isn't there a 'no taunting' rule?* 😁

drunkenseamaster

There are indeed differences between the brands on bracelet clasp design. For folding clasps, I think the important thing for comfort is to center the folding "blades" of the clasp, not necessarily the clasp itself. On the older (early 2000s & before pre-Glidelock) Rolex & most Seiko folding clasp bracelets, the blades extend well beyond the clasp (though hidden below the bracelet links), so removing links from the 6 o'clock side may center the blades under the wrist even though the clasp might be off-center. On the Omegas I've had, the clasps & blades are more the same size (making the clasp bigger allows more micro-adjustment holes), so centering the clasp usually works fine.

schoolboy

I keep getting picked on for not wearing the watch. Maybe it’s noob hassing.

who knows.

I’m just happy to be on this forum, talking watches with like minded individuals!

FreelanceWriter

Yes for vintage 1171, 1162, and 1479. Normally, also yes for my wife's Ladies Dynamics, but once ran into difficulty getting a screw fully out or back in (I forget which) and had to take it to my local watchmaker because I didn't want to force it. I just use one of these and one of those plastic bracelet holders that come in the $5.00 kits from China:

Bugbait

The plastic bracelet holders work fine but I would recommend getting a decent set of jeweller/precision screwdrivers. You don't have to spend a lot but the difference between <£5 and around £20 (or more) for a set of a half dozen or so is notable. Found this out when changing the battery on my X-33 which has multiple, very fine, shallow head screws. The cheaper screwdrivers have a thicker, uneven tip which can easily destroy the screw heads since they don't bite into the screw head very well. Better quality ones will have a sharper, even tip. Huge difference when the screw head is very small and shallow.

schoolboy

Is there a specific brand that you would recommend?

Bugbait

If I was to buy today, I'd just spend the money on the right size of Bergeon I needed. In London I would be looking at about £12-15 for each screwdriver. Considering most jewellers would charge about that or more to change the battery without any pressure testing then it's good value. Factor in convenience and you're set.

Just find out what size suits the bracelets you have. For the X-33 case back I use the 1.4mm but I would expect bracelet screws to be smaller (possibly <1mm). You might need a few over time but the quality of the better tools is well worth it given the cost of the watch and more so, the pain from doing it incorrectly.

EDIT: Good tools like Bergeon will come with replacement blades and more can be purchased.

amfalconer

I did my Speedmaster bracelet using the 1.8mm screwdriver from this kit after doing a bit of research.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/wera-kra..._bvD_BwE#product_additional_details_container

The depth and fit was perfect, and got all the screws out without marring and jumping out of the slot.

I didn't need to use any heat, but worth noting those screws were not the easiest to remove without it.

mjb

When I bought my Seamaster from the AD, the girl said, "can you come back in a few hours?" I asked why, and she said that they send it out for sizing. Really? I don't think so. I just took it home.

And then I buggered up a screw and damaged the tip on my cheap screwdrivers, so I broke down and paid some real money for some real tools and got the Bergeon and never looked back. I now have several sizes, as the Rolex is different and my Oris has some kind of microscopic screw heads.

Also useful is using a heat gun to loosen up the loctite first. It doesn't have to be real hot, just hot enough. You'll know.

I remember buying my first Omega, back when the pins were just held in by friction. I couldn't get them out, so I took it to a jeweler. I could hear him beating the crap out of it with a hammer way in the back. After that, I got less intimidated by resizing and sometimes it just takes a bigger hammer. LOL

The screws are so much easier!

amfalconer

I seem to think it was that one anyway, I handily already had the kit. Whichever I used it was a good positive fit.
I'll check when I get in.

Completely agree with you, great tools, I've just treated myself to a set of their VDE drivers too.

janice&fred

With all due respect I think you are making this way more complicated than it is. Your only challenge will be the actual removal of screws. Once you master that then it will be your call on what links to remove from where. Trial and error is the way for everyone. This link removal-reinstallation procedure is not something that has to be done first try and only once. You will be ok. Trust me.