Over the 4th of July long weekend, the whole family got together for a trip in the South San Juan Wilderness in southern Colorado, stretching south nearly to the New Mexico border. This is one of my favorite places, very isolated and obscure, and I've posted reports of my trips before in this thread. I've been trying to get Mrs. S to come with me for a decade, and we finally made it happen.
I generally park along a forest road on the east side of the wilderness and cross the Conejos River, to access a trail that gets me to the plateau quickly. However, this has been a wet spring in Colorado, and we quickly saw that the river was not safe to cross. Unfortunately, I didn’t take any photos, because Max somehow managed to fall in while trying to get a drink and was quickly swept away, and we had a stressful minute chasing him downstream before he managed to pull himself out. Using a trekking pole, we found that the water ranged from waist- to chest-deep at the bank, and was moving quickly.
So we drove across the river on the main road to a nearby trailhead with a campground, which meant a longer approach through the small part of the wilderness that is frequently used by day-hikers and fisherman. This area, called The Meadows, is actually very pretty, but we moved through as quickly as we could on our way to the higher areas. Once leaving The Meadows, we didn’t see any people for the duration of the four-day trip until we returned to the same area on the way out. That's one of the reasons I really love this place.
The trail climbed pretty steeply through various types of forest from roughly 9,000 to 11,000 feet, and eventually we arrived at the plateau. We set up camp at the first pleasant location we found. It actually ended up being a very nice campsite near a small lake.
In the morning, we continued to climb more gently over rolling terrain through wet meadows and forest. I have visited this area about a dozen times and was really enjoying introducing my wife to some of my favorite places. Unfortunately, on the way through, we found that one of my favorite places to camp, Alverjones Lake, was over-run with mosquitos, so that caused us to re-think our plans for the third night.
At one point, we walked along a valley with a herd of about 50 elk that whistled and barked in response to our presence. Opus has a very strong prey drive, so we were busy trying to control him, and neglected to take photos. The high part of the SSJ is infrequently visited and wet, and while there are many “trails” marked on the map, they are mostly just hypothetical lines on the map. Even after many visits, I generally find myself taking slightly different routes from place to place.

Eventually we reached one of my favorite sections of tundra, with the Continental Divide visible as a line of ridges in the distance. In the past, I've sometimes found this area hard to pass in early July. This year there were patches of snow, but nothing that really caused us any trouble. In fact, Max was happy to cool off in the snow, as usual. While I love this part of the wilderness, my wife found this section stark and a bit tedious. While fairly flat, the the ground is uneven and rocky, and the walking is slower than one might expect.
After reaching the CDT, we decided to detour off-trail to a plateau east of Green Lake that I visited last Fall. We set up camp near a very pleasant rocky pond at nearly 12,000′ and enjoyed a relaxing evening. In the morning, Max enjoyed a roll on the tundra, Opus chilled, and we walked over to look at a nearby un-named lake.
We intended to back-track on basically the same route, but I wasn’t paying close enough attention, and we wandered off-track. Instead of heading back toward the top of the canyon to by-pass it, we found ourselves looking down a steep descent to a drainage with our destination being the plateau on the other side. Since we saw a plausible route, we decided to attempt the short-cut, and it worked out nicely. Unfortunately, I forgot to take photos again. After that, we re-traced our steps from the previous day and then took an alternate route past Victoria Lake, again seeing many large groups of elk.
Until that point, the weather had been perfectly clear and sunny, but some clouds began to gather and we heard thunder in the distance.
Ultimately, the storm caught up to us, the temperature plummeted, and we were hit by a violent hailstorm. Max took shelter deep under a tree, and the rest of us huddled up until the storm blew over.
After the storm passed, we were cold so we got moving quickly to warm up. Soon enough the sun emerged and we decided to camp at another off-trail lake (named Hourglass Lake on old maps) that I have visited in the past. We were worried that we might have a lot of mosquitos there, but it turned out to be fine. It’s a lovely place to camp, and full of fish. Around midnight, we were visited by something very large walking through the water near our campsite, but I wasn’t able to get a look for fear that Max would escape if I opened my tent.
In the morning we re-traced our route and descended steeply on loose rocky trails through the dense aspens and then the mixed forest on trails that have not been maintained for a long time. The final photo shows the type of deadfall we frequently encountered.
As we walked out along the meadows, we were chased by another storm, but managed to out-run it to the trailhead. This was a fun trip, and I was especially happy to introduce my wife to this wilderness. On the drive home, she was looking at the map and asking about other parts of the wilderness, so I think she might want to return.