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·Here's the video. Sorry that it's sideways and not very bright!
It's weird - when it jumps forward at the beginning by, say, 1/2 of a second, it freezes for the same amount of time it jumped forward (or so it seems), so I think it actually is keeping accurate time.
When I get home, I'll film a slow motion video with the iPhone and attach it!
I'll just go ahead and say what we're probably all thinking; when you place this one for sale please please please fully disclose the whole scotch Brite polishing, time loosing/gaining.adjusting back and forth by an AD and eventually by you It's perfectly OK to play doctor with your watch, it's your watch after all, but don't pass the final bill to a random buyer.
No scotchbrite on side of case by you ( your first post in this thread ) and no opened 3 times since service.
Add sounds very EBay but you admit this thread as being to the watch so not that bad....
Followed by a quick post on the sales thread...
The case was opened twice, not three times. Both were for quick regulations.
All I can say, as testament to the noble and educated members of this forum, none of us added the above mentioned points to the sales thread. And congratulations on your sale. In my view, I would not have understood the extent of the tinkering on this watch based on the sales posting. As I mentioned before you actually list around 4 different adjustments and time variations and you openly say you have the tools and the will and the confidence to perform all these adjustments yourself (of course why would you even have the tools otherwise?) As somebody also mentioned the Service is pretty much void once you yourself open the case after it to regulate it. You did mention the polishing of the bracelet (only) and you did admit this thread is about the watch so any buyer could do their own research...if they're so inclined. I for one definitely stayed away from posting because I thought it would be an aggressive compromise to your sale, and some time ago I was given the Nobel Prize monicker for a reason, and I don't want another prize for taking on causes that are not my own.
The lesson, to me, is respect. Respect for yourself, for the watches and, most importantly, for the buyers. One thing I know for sure, should you buy this watch at top $ and then find out everything that is attached to it you would freak out and, most likely, sell it or return it. The expectation that others may not is a considerable and conscious one on your part.
Hey Sergio,
I totally get it. As far as the tools go, I had bought them over a year ago when I was getting into watches. I bought an old, broken Waltham, which is what I was tinkering with. Honest to God - and again, you guys are free to believe whatever you like - I never opened the case myself. Whether you and/or anyone else thinks I did or did not is not a discussion that I am going to or willing to get into. I've done nothing to have my credibility and honesty questioned in the past, so I'm a little disappointed that some members won't just take my word that I didn't personally open the case. I understand where the doubt comes from, but it's still frustrating. Regardless, that horse is long dead and is still being beaten.
As far as the sales thread goes, I tried to list all of the history, any known issues, and any work that I had personally done (refinishing and taking it to have it regulated a couple times). That's another reason why I linked to this thread. In addition to that, I went over VERY clearly with the buyer about the known history of the watch, the refinishing, the regulations, and the chrono second jump issue. He knows all of that, and he still willingly chose to purchase it.
I do appreciate all of you taking your time to offer your advice and criticisms, because all of it is valuable insight into how seasoned watch collectors feel about sales such as this.
With all of that said, I'm done participating in this thread. As I've said, this is a dead horse that no longer needs beating. If anyone would like to talk to me about this, please just PM me. Public debates (for me at least) are uncomfortable to say the least.
Thanks again for all the help you guys have been.
Cheers,
Jeff
If you need a chronograph which is supposed to give you accuracy to 1/100s of a second,then you need a 3 or 4 register Quartz chronograph. But by the time you introduce the human factor (i. e. reflex time), I imagine your Speedmaster will be accurate enough. There has to be a bit of "lash" in the gear train of a mechanical chronograph to enable it to function. A lot of stuff happens in that gear train when you operate it, and if everything was tight enough to prevent lash, the thing wouldn't work.