'67 Speedy ref. 145.012 - Advice and thoughts on first luxury watch

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if you’ve not checked out spacefruit’s site Speedmaster101.com, I believe you should do a deep dive into that before your visit to the seller this weekend
Thanks for the tip!
 
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Same thoughts here. That bezel in these pictures looks not aged, but chemical bleached. All original Omega Parts= looks like it. All Original as it left the factory = No. Most things mentioned here would not bother me. All easy to fix. The Bezel is the problem. They age naturally much darker in circumference next to the crystal. Therefore: take a good loupe to the viewing. Evaluate in silence. Don't answer comments during evaluation. Comment on the things mentioned here. Deduct $ 500 for crown and hand replacements by a watchmaker. That brings itdown to $10000. Tell him (he will know anyway), that the bezel is altered and is not right for an all original Speedy. Tell him, that a used and correct DON bezel is over $ 2000. Offer him $8000 cash and he can keep his original bezel and you source yourself a correct one. If he refuses, offer $9000 and stick to it. Showing cash in the end makes things easier.....good luck ! Kind regards. Achim
 
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My memory is that some people seem to believe that there was a transition from one to the other throughout the production of the 145.012 reference, but I don't think that's absolutely clear.
From personal experience, 145.012-67 in this serial range and with the "SP on top" case back would more commonly have the earlier "Tear Drop" chrono hand.
That aside, you can tell the chrono hand on the OP watch is a service part as it is slightly shorter (we're talking about ~1.5mm).
It was probably changed during service at the same time the crown was replaced.
 
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Hi all,

I am new to this forum and also to watch collecting.
I wanted my first luxury timepiece to be of both historical and sentimental importance, and therefore started looking for a ref. 145.012 speedy from 1967 (preferably as this is the year in which both my parents were born).

If you want a first luxury timepiece, my personal opinion is to buy one new, if there is one you like.

Vintage is fine, but you've picked the one most expensive and likely to be overpriced and even with the best advisors here (and these guys are pretty sharp), you never know what you might be getting into.

I like Omega too, and my latest was a brand-new limited Railmaster.

That said, I have a couple I could sell you for less than $600, and some of these guys could also do the same.

Start small and work your way up.

Tom
 
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Tell him (he will know anyway), that the bezel is altered and is not right for an all original Speedy.

I agree that the bezel looks like a massive red flag, and if altered calls for a solid discount (or avoid). But possibly the seller brought this upon themselves with some very creative filtering on the photos? Look at the blurring and greyscale on the dial as well...

I'm sure a lot of experts here would be able to tell you more if you asked the seller to take the watch out into open sunlight and take a few unadulterated shots with his phone. Failing that, take some yourself at the meeting and post them up! 👍
 
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@DennyDane - have you looked on ilovemyspeedmaster.com about the information concerning the serial number?? There are very usefull information about the price range too.
In this price range I would expect an extract from Omega, if you have to do this and it turns out some problems, you should have the possibility to give it back. The bracelet add some worth, may be correct 4/67 for a 2/68 watch
...... see the dial in the flesh and evaluate your price
@DennyDane - if you’ve not checked out spacefruit’s site Speedmaster101.com, I believe you should do a deep dive into that before your visit to the seller this weekend. You can learn a lot about this particular reference, as well as other more general “things to look for” when it comes to speedmasters.
 
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I agree that the bezel looks like a massive red flag, and if altered calls for a solid discount (or avoid). But possibly the seller brought this upon themselves with some very creative filtering on the photos? Look at the blurring and greyscale on the dial as well...

I'm sure a lot of experts here would be able to tell you more if you asked the seller to take the watch out into open sunlight and take a few unadulterated shots with his phone. Failing that, take some yourself at the meeting and post them up! 👍
I'll be sure to do that if he'll let me!
 
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have you looked on ilovemyspeedmaster.com about the information concerning the serial number
Will check it out, thanks!
 
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Same thoughts here. That bezel in these pictures looks not aged, but chemical bleached. All original Omega Parts= looks like it. All Original as it left the factory = No. Most things mentioned here would not bother me. All easy to fix. The Bezel is the problem. They age naturally much darker in circumference next to the crystal. Therefore: take a good loupe to the viewing. Evaluate in silence. Don't answer comments during evaluation. Comment on the things mentioned here. Deduct $ 500 for crown and hand replacements by a watchmaker. That brings itdown to $10000. Tell him (he will know anyway), that the bezel is altered and is not right for an all original Speedy. Tell him, that a used and correct DON bezel is over $ 2000. Offer him $8000 cash and he can keep his original bezel and you source yourself a correct one. If he refuses, offer $9000 and stick to it. Showing cash in the end makes things easier.....good luck ! Kind regards. Achim
This is profound! Thank you very much for providing some tangible advice!
 
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That said, I have a couple I could sell you for less than $600, and some of these guys could also do the same.
Thanks for the input and the offer, although I am not interested in the latter 😉
 
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With Speedmasters a faded bezel is worth less than a black bezel so I can’t really see why a dealer would chemically age it especially when it looks to be in fairly good shape to begin with (ie. no flaking of the paint, just a ding or two.) Bezels can age over time for all kinds of reasons so can produce different effects. It’s a personal choice so decide if you find it attractive when you view it in person.
 
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It seems everyone is very interested in the bezel so I will let you guys know once I've seen it in person!👍
 
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From personal experience, 145.012-67 in this serial range and with the "SP on top" case back would more commonly have the earlier "Tear Drop" chrono hand.
That aside, you can tell the chrono hand on the OP watch is a service part as it is slightly shorter (we're talking about ~1.5mm).
It was probably changed during service at the same time the crown was replaced.

@ndgal what do other -67 or -68 inner case backs have if not "SP"?
 
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@ndgal what do other -67 or -68 inner case backs have if not "SP"?
I understand the SP is either printed above or below the reference number.
 
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I understand the SP is either printed above or below the reference number.

above is tear drop chrono and below is flat bottom chrono? Is this referenced in MWO?
 
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above is tear drop chrono and below is flat bottom chrono? Is this referenced in MWO?

It's not in MWO 1st Edition & I haven't heard of that as a cut off point. SP refers to changes in the case and gaskets/pushers/crown, rather than hands.

That's not to say that there definitely isn't a relationship between SP and the hands, though. Maybe someone who with the latest MWO will know ?