1976 Omega Speedmaster

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I don't know if you will succeed opening the case with a ball, be careful!

Having a picture of the inner caseback and the serial number of the movement it is not necessary to open the case IMO


145022-76 ST right?

Seems like you have a correct vintage Speedmaster but wait for confirmation by others.

Is there lumious (yellowish) material on the hour markers?

When a watch case gets polished material is removed and the case starts loosing its original look.

If you enjoy wearing your watch this shouldn't bother you too much 😀

I won't try too hard with the ball as I don't want to damage it and I'm sure a local jeweller would open it for me once lockdown is over.

Yes, 145022-76 ST is correct... the image was taken in the shop 8 years ago using the camera on whatever mobile phone I had at that time. The images of the inside are even worse.

No, there is not even the slightest hint of luminous material on the hour markers. I'm 100% sure that somebody must have wiped this off which is a shame.

I do love wearing this watch and see it as my casual watch and save my Broad Arrow for special occasions.
 
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I've been reading the speedmaster101 website and so far so good. The bezel, face and case back are all correct for 1976. My only issue is the lume on the dial is missing.
 
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I've ordered a "ball" to open the case back and this should arrive on Sunday. However, I'm certain of the movement number because I created a document when I was researching the watch before I even found the one I ended up purchasing and I noted it within that document plus it's noted on the receipts too.

Opening the caseback with a ball is just the first step - there's an iron dust cover inside as well, and you should be very careful opening that. If you already have the serial number, you're fine.
 
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Opening the caseback with a ball is just the first step - there's an iron dust cover inside as well, and you should be very careful opening that. If you already have the serial number, you're fine.
Yeah, I remember the "blank" dust cover but thought this was loose and held in place by the case back. I really don't want to damage the watch so will leave well alone and take to a jeweller after lockdown has ended. I really like some good images of the mechanism. Thanks, CH
 
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If you decide to use the watch regularly you can think about having the dial relumed later, there are specialist for this job

Or you could try to source a vintage dial and replace it
 
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If you decide to use the watch regularly you can think about having the dial relumed later, there are specialist for this job

Or you could try to source a vintage dial and replace it
I've just been reading about replacing parts, etc. I've not noticed it in 8 years and I'm not that fussed tbh so will probably leave it. Looking at some similar watches, the lume seems to have dropped off and is loose between the dial and glass so I'm guessing this was the case with my watch at some point so somebody opened it up and got rid of the whole lot.
Thanks, CH
 
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If you decide to use the watch regularly you can think about having the dial relumed later, there are specialist for this job

Or you could try to source a vintage dial and replace it

That was no recommendation to do that 😉

Of course you can leave it just the way it is right now
 
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I see a late 77 145.022-76 with lume removed from the dial.
 
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Yeah, I remember the "blank" dust cover but thought this was loose and held in place by the case back. I really don't want to damage the watch so will leave well alone and take to a jeweller after lockdown has ended. I really like some good images of the mechanism. Thanks, CH

Sometimes it can be loose and will just drop off if the watch is overturned; you can definitely try that and see what happens. You'll still have to put it back on though, and if you get that wrong you can damage the movement. Usually though in my experience, the friction fit of the dust cover prevents it from coming off without giving it a tiny nudge with a razor blade or watch knife.
 
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I see a late 77 145.022-76 with lume removed from the dial.

What makes you think it’s a late ‘77?
 
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What makes you think it’s a late ‘77?

The length of the "S" in speedmaster - in mid 1977 these switched from the short "S" with a much more noticeable gap to the "long S" where the bottom of it almost touches the PR.

It's possible that whenever it was serviced and the old lume was scraped off, that instead the dial was just swapped.
Edited:
 
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What makes you think it’s a late ‘77?

long story short. I was also born in 76 and purchased a Birthyear Speedy. A few years back the assumption was the “short S “ dial or the S that does not go to the bottom of the P was only found in very early models. After some tools correlating serial number to production month came out ( and sequential serial numbers in this period was proven) it became obvious what was assumed knowledge was wrong. I’ve been collecting serial numbers and verified production dates “extracts” on the -76 and -74 models to track when (or if in the -74) dials changed. My data set heavily implies all -76 made after Aug/Sept of 77 have the later dial and earlier ones all have the earlier dial. There are some outliers in the earlier serial numbers with the later dial but those can be explained by a service up into the mid 80’s which would have received as a part of a service the later dial to refresh the tritium lume.


OK not so short lol.
 
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long story short. I was also born in 76 and purchased a Birthyear Speedy. A few years back the assumption was the “short S “ dial or the S that does not go to the bottom of the P was only found in very early models. After some tools correlating serial number to production month came out ( and sequential serial numbers in this period was proven) it became obvious what was assumed knowledge was wrong. I’ve been collecting serial numbers and verified production dates “extracts” on the -76 and -74 models to track when (or if in the -74) dials changed. My data set heavily implies all -76 made after Aug/Sept of 77 have the later dial and earlier ones all have the earlier dial. There are some outliers in the earlier serial numbers with the later dial but those can be explained by a service up into the mid 80’s which would have received as a part of a service the later dial to refresh the tritium lume.


OK not so short lol.

I know we discussed this a long time ago with regards to my watch, as it's one of the earliest serials with the long S - Ilovemyspeedmaster these days pegs production to July of 1977 (3992362x).
 
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I know we discussed this a long time ago with regards to my watch, as it's one of the earliest serials with the long S - Ilovemyspeedmaster these days pegs production to July of 1977 (3992362x).
Yours I'm not 100% sure on.. but the Feb 76 extract ones, and the Novemeber 76 ones, I am pretty sure are serviced, as 3 of the ones I have that are out of order all have signs of service and replaced parts.
 
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There are some outliers in the earlier serial numbers with the later dial but those can be explained by a service up into the mid 80’s which would have received as a part of a service the later dial to refresh the tritium lume.

Thanks for sharing this information. The devil really is in the detail in these watches. I’d never have noticed the difference in the “S” had you not pointed it out.

Are you saying there is a possibility that mine could have had a new later dial during a service and there's a chance it is a ‘76? I’m trying to decide if it’s worth me doing an extract from the archive.
 
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Thanks for sharing this information. The devil really is in the detail in these watches. I’d never have noticed the difference in the “S” had you not pointed it out.

Are you saying there is a possibility that mine could have had a new later dial during a service and there's a chance it is a ‘76? I’m trying to decide if it’s worth me doing an extract from the archive.

In my opionion... it’s a 76. 76 is your Birthyear. Good enough for me.

a serial number check on ilovemyspeedmaster is just as good as an extract (within 1-2months)

you need to ask yourself do you want to prove your 76 was a 1977 production or just ok with it?

I choose not to prove it.
 
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In my opionion... it’s a 76. 76 is your Birthyear. Good enough for me.

a serial number check on ilovemyspeedmaster is just as good as an extract (within 1-2months)

you need to ask yourself do you want to prove your 76 was a 1977 production or just ok with it?

I choose not to prove it.
Mmm... for many reasons, I think I'd like to know for sure. I like the idea of having the extract to go with the watch seeing as I don't have the original papers and it may show up something interesting such as the country it was originally sold to or, dare I think it, that this is actually a '76 with an incorrect dial or replaced dial? If the extract confirms it's a '77 it wouldn't make me sell the watch but I may start to look around again for a actual '76, which is kinda fun.
 
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So I just ordered an Extract from the Archives... fingers crossed it's a '76.
 
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My extract just arrived and confirmed the production date as 17 December 1976!! I'm very happy as this confirms as my birth year.

Now I need to decide what my next step is. The consensus, from this thread, is that everything is present and correct apart from the dial which has two issues; 1. There is no lume and; 2. It has the longer "S" dial which may not be period correct. I'm no longer wearing the watch as it needs servicing but when I do have the service carried out I'm considering having the case built up just where the straps sit against it and new lume put on the dial. Bearing in mind I'm planning to keep and wear the watch indefinitely, would this be the right course of action? Equally, I don't want to do something that irreversibly devalues the watch. I would love the opinions of the experts on this forum of how to proceed.
Thanks in advance,
CH
 
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My extract just arrived and confirmed the production date as 17 December 1976!! I'm very happy as this confirms as my birth year.

Now I need to decide what my next step is. The consensus, from this thread, is that everything is present and correct apart from the dial which has two issues; 1. There is no lume and; 2. It has the longer "S" dial which may not be period correct. I'm no longer wearing the watch as it needs servicing but when I do have the service carried out I'm considering having the case built up just where the straps sit against it and new lume put on the dial. Bearing in mind I'm planning to keep and wear the watch indefinitely, would this be the right course of action? Equally, I don't want to do something that irreversibly devalues the watch. I would love the opinions of the experts on this forum of how to proceed.
Thanks in advance,
CH

Having it re-lumed would likely cost a similar amount to sourcing a correct dial, with intact lume.