Maybe this is a stupid question but I know that Patek and other very high end brands have extremely expensive enamel dials. My background is that my family had an import export business when I was growing up where we produced lapel pins in Taiwan and sold there in the US. We sold "genuine cloisonne enamel" lapel pins to promotional product distributors. Most of it was custom logos, but the kind of product would be pins like a pink ribbon for breast cancer or a yellow one for Desert Storm (I'm dating myself here), or an American flag pin in the wake of 9/11, and so on. We had cheaper products too, like silkscreened logos (same process as a t-shirt) with an epoxy on top but I don't remember the cloisonne enamel pins being insanely expensive. I think the bulk of it was the die charge but the factory did lay down brass lines and fill in powder that they fused into glass. What is it that Patek and other brands do that is so different, expensive, time consuming, etc.? Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

 

This is complete noob conjecture:

I think it has to do with it being so thin. If you can lay on a relatively thick coating during the enameling / heating process, it will be far sturdier and easier. But with something 1-2 mm thick, any flaw or unevenness is going to result in a junked dial. Scottish microbrand anOrdain - who specialize in enamel dials - has said something like half of their dials are junked between flaws that show up during the baking process or during the application or printing of indices / logos / etc.

 

Labor intensive. High waste …a perfectly done dial is a thing of beauty.

 

Makes sense. Lapel pins are much thicker

 

Great Video from RGM…..
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwifibTDqNOEAxXVmYQIHSqNARUQtwJ6BAgREAI&url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C87p0EZ1Q8s&usg=AOvVaw2WhUUuc_Bf01ZTGjOogBbE&opi=89978449

 

It’s one of those things that gets me pondering how much “difficulty” matters to me as a value/desire consideration. I’m not attracted to enamel dials, and even understanding why they’re valuable doesn’t make me want one more. It’s the same with technically astounding complications: if it’s not a complication I’d find useful or aesthetically pleasing, I wouldn’t want it, and certainly wouldn’t pay extra for it. But I sense that there are some collectors who do take that into consideration.

 

Enamel dials can have outstanding longevity, assuming that the fragile surfaces are not cracked during a service. The printing remains crisp, colors stay vibrant and don't fade or yellow over time. This might be important for an heirloom watch brand like Patek.