I have to say that the people you reference or have spoken to seem incredibly insecure and hyper focused on what other people think. To go out of their way to, as you said, "actively avoid any chance of appearance as a “watch guy” - proudly seeking out g-shocks, etc., to *emphasize* (almost in protest) that they're not “watch guys.'" is incredibly insecure and a bit immature or impish at best--not to mention, in trying to not be something, they are being something and something I personally find distasteful. Wear what you like is something we say to often in this community, but its very true. I'd add that we should have the courage to like what we like and not worry if we will appear to be anything "watch guy" or otherwise.
This is an un-generous and silly take in a thread comprised entirely of people - including yourself - discussing essentially what is or isn’t “cool” (insert whatever word you want for what’s is obviously being discussed).
To suggest that it’s “shallow” for people to make fashion and style choices based in part on social signaling is disingenuous.
After all, you then go on to basically say “Brand is critical because it communicates with the consumer, it makes them feel something or allows them to experience something and, after all, that is the entire point of most luxury goods.”
Either everyone is equally “shallow” (because we all do it), or no one is (because we all do it).
Here, I’d be cautious to point your fingers because it just makes you sound like you’re one of the people from whom others are wanting to distance their own personal “brand,” and can smell of sour grapes.
that is why you don't see a Louis Vuitton and Kirkland collaboration; or Channel making a bag in collaboration with Coach; and so on.
This leaves you hanging your arse out a bit, because if anything so-called high-low collaborations are rampant and in danger of being old news.
Versace, Balmain, Lanvin, Karl Lagerfeld, etc etc etc (there are dozens) seemed to have benefited from the exposure of their respective H&M partnerships over the past 15+ years.
Gucci X The North Face was a net positive for both companies.
Yeezy (street luxury) X The Gap is doing alright, if you’re in to luxury streetwear.
Dior x Nike created a 5 million person waitlist
BMW X Kith (NYC streetwear brand) went nuts
Jil Sander X Uniqlo
Louis Vuitton X NBA signed a multi-year collaboration contract
Off-White X Ikea
Balenciaga X Crocs
Hermès x Apple Watch
Could go on and on here, but one last one to mention on the point of this being entirely
not new:
Target’s just celebrated 20 years of its “Design for all” collaborations in 2020, where items from collections were Missoni, Lilly Pulitzer, Michael Graves, Hunter, and John Derian all sold out in a matter of hours - and over the past 20 years managed to introduce large portions of the U.S. market to high-end European designers and lesser-known but equally luxurious (in Europe) fashion houses.
In all the above examples, the so-called high-low collaborations helped cement the luxury brands and designers in the minds of the broader popular culture. It is about assigning meaning and relevance to a brand by building up and shaping the awareness and context around them, creating an environment of cultural associations and connections to help the brand grow beyond a core market.
Not that it can’t go wrong (maybe Omega X Swatch will go wrong), but there are a lot of examples of it going very right both the collaborating brands.
The now late Virgil Abloh (artistic director of Louis Vuitton's and CEO of Off-White) said these high-low collaborations “need to engage both the tourist and the purist,” and that “expressing wealth isn’t the coolest thing right now. It’s expressing your knowledge.”
Abloh, who arguably reinvented and perfected the high-low collaboration over the past 10 years, also said of these high-low collaborations, “My internal tool for digesting the word ‘luxury’ is to determine whether or not something is ‘coveted.’ If you covet it, it’s luxurious to you.”
And here we are, on probably the most stodgy (in a good way) of horological nerd forums, with a critical mass of people either planning to line up in front of a
Swatch store or disappointed that we can’t.
And conversely, there’s a universe of people who either can’t or wouldn’t put down a $13,000 deposit to wait 2+ years for a re-hashed Ed White 321, but who are about to have their Instagram and TikTok feeds peppered with the words “Omega” and “Moon” and “Mars” and “Speedmaster.”
I’m not saying this collab is an ensured hit, but I am saying it’s past silly to suggest this collab is somehow out of step with the luxury market. if anything, sich a collab is in danger of being possibly late to the game (no surprise for Swiss watchmaking). that’s why, earlier in this thread, I was cringing at the Swatch Group CEO’s comments about “collaborations are so hot right now” - they were at their peak in the 2010’s, and they do best when you act like they aren’t an intentional marketing ploy (cognitive dissonance the key).
Which brings back why I mention the feedback I’m seeing
from people in the luxury goods and retail space. Call them shallow if you like, but these are the people who are arbitrating and internalizing the successes or failures of trends in design, luxury retail, etc. - and they (the point was) are responding positively to this collaboration,
despite such high-low collabs waining in effectiveness (RIP Virgil) and
despite the luxury wristwatch segment being viewed as the nexus of hype-beast tasteless self-seriousness.
These days, the increasingly hotter collab segment is the “Competitor collaboration” (eg this year’s Gucci X Balenciaga “hack” collection).
Now, imagine an Omega X Rolex watch…