Trying to learn... Did chronograph seconds hand only come as black? This is gold so shouldn't the minute be gold? Is it subdial at 6 you're referring to?
That ring at the bottom of the chrono second hand isn't a UG thing. As for the dial, the north and south subdial numerals jumped out at me as imperfect. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Is this legit? Are all UG crown supposed to be signed in the 1940-50's? 18k gold 37,5mm & original dial or very good redial? Price range?
It really should say Universal Geneve somewhere in that dial. And those hour markers obscuring the minute numbers... not good. It looks like a legitimate dial that's been brutally mucked with.
Do any of you have links or photos of legitimate dials & hands for comparison. Wouldn't it be impossible to find legitimate dials (& hands) surviving the 50+ years? In my research I only come across re-dials - better or awful. Actually I think the other/first I posted seems like a very good re-dial compared to others I've seen. I would really like to own a UG cause I think they look charming and with great complications ex. moonphase, chrono & date. What price range would be acceptable for a re-dial as I probably can't afford a legitimate?
I think one should not pay much for redial, if u look hard enough, u can still come by legitimate one at 3-4K usd, just have to be patient. Below is a genuine dial (but whether it comes with the case or not is a matter for debate )
The Swiss at the bottom of the dial looks very low as though it's half covered but the chapter ring. Also i wasn't aware they used prong tool style case backs on early Polarouters as opposed to the spanner octagon style caseback on the early polerouters. Its still a fine looking watch.
I have a few issues about this good looking polarouter: why is the swiss half covered by the ring, the crosshair is off centered with the logo, the case is repolished, the "0" in the reference is curious, the movement is not shown ?..
All good points, indeed. The one that confounds/irks/concerns me the most is the "curious" 0 in the reference as pointed out by @10H10 (p.s. Nice new avatar pic!). As for the caseback type, we know of at least two variants for the Polarouter. Here are a few examples: https://omegaforums.net/threads/pol...vey-with-some-observations.35888/#post-471746 As for the snug "Swiss", likewise, we've seen many Polarouter/Polerouter examples where this is the case. What surprises me, however, is that models without minute markers tend to feature feature Swiss a bit higher north on the dial. For example (s s picture): https://omegaforums.net/threads/pol...-a-brief-survey-with-some-observations.35888/ As for for off-centre logo x crosshair. I've found this to be fairly common. While not ideal, it isn't always a dealbreaker for me given the right watch. Sometimes it is simply a function of the reflection off of a curvy shield (but I don't think that's the case with this example). Anyhow, some seeming contradictions/ambiguity with this otherwise lovely one.
Not at all impossible... but it was a lot easier to find a Tri-Compax with original dial and furniture a few years ago. Here's one from the 40's, showing its age:
@Timmovitz an original dial for sale here and a terrific start to a UG collection: https://omegaforums.net/threads/universal-geneve-polerouter-date.43432/
New Polerouter just come up on ebay. Unusual orange/ brown colour of the chapter ring/ inner bezel, I've never seen this before... Any thoughts on it? Few things I've noticed is the minute markers dont meet up inline with the chapter/bezel. No serial number on the case back. font and crosshairs look a bit thick and fresh. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-U...443838?hash=item1c711768be:g:d98AAOSwzaJX7Ah9Purchases made through these links may earn this site a commission from the eBay Partner Network The text/
Two Compax Dial here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-2-Dial...639812?hash=item1a1ca3b284:g:vCUAAOSw4shX6UAzPurchases made through these links may earn this site a commission from the eBay Partner Network
Very hard to find originals. I am surprised at the number of redials out there. I can accept a lume job if done conscientously but not a redail, no matter how good. As discussed, the value of a redial is the sum of parts which should be in the region of USD2K. Much better off with an original weathered dial than a redial. Value of an original in all respects depends very much on condition USD3-4K will get you a smaller 34mm and with a little more, you should be able to find a very nice example for USD5-6K in the current market. You can easily add USD2-3K to that for oversize tri compax models. here are two sourced from other forum members for reference ... View attachment 286943 View attachment 286944 I am struggling to work this one out. However, one thing is clear, dial is all wrong! Chapter (tachy and minute) are too small. I will go for a redial probably using an original plate/cliche ... Crown is 60's but not a big deal as crowns were unmarked and pretty generic in that era. What is the serial and reference number ?
Pity about the lume. Although I have nothing against reluming if done conscientiously, it does seem that whoever did that dial was a little too generous. Lume was very subtle and minimal on those dials. Original Lume
Any opinions by the experts on this dial would be greatly appreciated, I'm still learning with spotting the redials... Thank you