UG serial and reference numbers (US Market)

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Hi all,

It's likely not news to most on this forum that due to mid-century American tariff policy, many a Swiss watch brand (including UG) chose to either case watches in the US, make special movements or cases for the US market, or otherwise non-conform with their ex-US manufacturing and sales patterns.

One result is that many gold UG watches destined for the US market lack the traditional UG serial number or reference number.

Has anyone been able to decifer the serial numbers on UG gold watches for the US market and match a timeline?

Thanks in advance.
 
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Hi all,

It's likely not news to most on this forum that due to mid-century American tariff policy, many a Swiss watch brand (including UG) chose to either case watches in the US, make special movements or cases for the US market, or otherwise non-conform with their ex-US manufacturing and sales patterns.

One result is that many gold UG watches destined for the US market lack the traditional UG serial number or reference number.

Has anyone been able to decifer the serial numbers on UG gold watches for the US market and match a timeline?

Thanks in advance.
Ahh. I have a Compax like that. Ref # with correct fonts .. no S/N. To my knowledge this is a grey zone.
 
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Hi and welcome to the forum. Not sure I really follow. There is no way to know for certain if any particular watch case was intended for US market. You could rely on the import code stamped on the mvmt, if there is one, but even then we can’t be sure that movement was originally paired with that case? But suppose we assume it was, in the vast majority of all examples I’ve ever seen with a US import code on the mvmt, it’s a completely standard UG case. In fact I can’t think of a single example offhand that was not, except obvious Frankens. I can think of what people have been presuming as French cased examples, but not US.
Anyhow perhaps easier to look at specific examples rather than generalizations? Sounds like Larry has one. Or maybe I’m just not understanding the question correctly.
Do you have a specific watch in mind that you are researching?
 
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I was about to comment something similar. Please show us examples
 
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I think the OP might refer to the commonly seen gold filled UGs without reference numbers. Often these come in Star Watch Case Company cases.

Here's a 138SS bumper for example:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/155806150572


I'm not aware of any documentation regarding the serial numbers/case numbers of these watches.
Edited:
 
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But suppose we assume it was, in the vast majority of all examples I’ve ever seen with a US import code on the mvmt, it’s a completely standard UG case. In fact I can’t think of a single example offhand that was not, except obvious Frankens.

There were some U.S. market only Universal Geneve watches, made with gold-filled or 14K cases. They have the import mark “HOX”.

These are usually not “named” models like the Compax series or Polerouters. Generally, they are lower end or ladies’ models for which the customs savings on the jewels and cases would have been significant in a competitive market against other Swiss and American manufacturers.

Here are a couple of examples from a quick internet search for 14K UG’s:

https://empress.cc/products/50s-universal-geneve-gents-classic-vintage-watch

https://www.ebay.com/itm/334650610323
Unfortunately, there is no way to track serial numbers on these watches. Any numbers on the cases had meaning only to the case makers, all of whom are now defunct.

Hope this helps,
gatorcpa
 
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@bgrisso … Been meaning to post my RG Compax as a case study. Will do so once the Covid fog clears and I trust myself with a case knife.
 
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I think the OP might refer to the commonly seen gold filled UGs without reference numbers. Often these come in Star Watch Case Company cases.

Here's a 138SS bumper for example:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/155806150572


I'm not aware of any documentation regarding the serial numbers/case numbers of these watches.

good point, I was inadvertently focused on chronos and forgot about the star cases. I think because they are time only not solid I tend to write them off.
 
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@bgrisso … Been meaning to post my RG Compax as a case study. Will do so once the Covid fog clears and I trust myself with a case knife.

hope you feel better 👍
 
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@Larry S wishing you a swift recovery.

To clarify, I'm not just referring to Star Watch Case Company cases, though those were 10K (and occasionally 14K) gold filled and do lack traditional UG serial numbers.

I'm also referring to solid 14K and 18K gold watches that had 4 or 5 digit numbers on the back and had Universal Geneve stamped on the inside of the case back in either a square or a circle. This includes a range of sizes both men's and women's.

For a reference on this point, see this page on the Polerouter website: https://universalgenevepolerouter.com/identifying-us-market-polerouters/

However this is true of many non-polerouter references, examples below:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/265934486938
https://www.watchuseek.com/threads/i-cant-figure-out-this-universal-geneve-model.5537615/
https://www.blueribbonrarities.com/...ve-14k-yellow-gold-hand-wind-mens-watch-33-mm
https://www.ebay.com/itm/374397270077
https://www.ebay.com/itm/266458244310

Was simply curious if someone else had cracked the code on those caseback numbers or if this was a new rabbit hole to research.
 
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