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Dan S
·Not too sure why that would be. I’m just here asking questions of enthusiasts and people with far more knowledge than me - which I thought was the purpose of the forum?
Total beginner - any tips please?
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Dan S
·I missed the fact that you were looking for a watch from 1975.
In that case:
https://www.birthyearwatches.com/
The owner is a collector and a regular poster on another forum. I have bought two watches from Scott. Both have been fairly priced and very fairly described.
EDIT: It's not just me who thinks Scott is fair.
https://www.thewatchforum.co.uk/threads/who-are-the-trusted-vintage-watch-dealers-in-the-uk.176972
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BrokenSkunk
·Be aware that the vast majority of his watches are dated only approximately.
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Dan S
·Sure, take a look at the 1975 watches, and you'll see that virtually none of them are dated explicitly to 1975. For example, many are dated as before or up to 1975. In other cases, the watch was sold in 1975 but not necessarily manufactured/delivered in 1975. I'm not criticizing him, as I mentioned. He explains his methods and does the best he can. But as you know, in very few cases (e.g. Seiko) can one date a watch accurately. In most case, one is going by combined internet research on the basis of serial numbers, and for obscure brands, even that is lacking.
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BrokenSkunk
·Ah, @Dan S you edited your post. Your position is clearer now, and reasonable. 😀
The original one liner that you posted (as I quoted above) came across as you were having a pop. I didn't understand why, since Scott is upfront about what he does and the OP seems sensible enough to read the description for each watch.
I too don't agree with the choice that many make when buying a birth year watch. Someone may, for example buy a Rolex Sub manufactured in 1980 as a 1980 Birth year watch. To me it isn't. The Sub was released in 1953 and has changed in iddy biddy increments since. To me, the Sub is a 1953 watch. Since it isn't representative of 1980, it's a poor choice for a 1980 Birth year watch.
To take the birth year watch silliness to a whole new level, I actually have a Birth day watch. Well I'm calling it that. I've got an Electro-quartz, which was unveiled at Basel on 10th April 1970. The fact that I wasn't born until 1am on the 11th is a minor detail that I'm choosing to ignore. I'm also ignoring the fact that my particular electro-quartz didn't roll off the production line until 1973.
The original one liner that you posted (as I quoted above) came across as you were having a pop. I didn't understand why, since Scott is upfront about what he does and the OP seems sensible enough to read the description for each watch.
I too don't agree with the choice that many make when buying a birth year watch. Someone may, for example buy a Rolex Sub manufactured in 1980 as a 1980 Birth year watch. To me it isn't. The Sub was released in 1953 and has changed in iddy biddy increments since. To me, the Sub is a 1953 watch. Since it isn't representative of 1980, it's a poor choice for a 1980 Birth year watch.
To take the birth year watch silliness to a whole new level, I actually have a Birth day watch. Well I'm calling it that. I've got an Electro-quartz, which was unveiled at Basel on 10th April 1970. The fact that I wasn't born until 1am on the 11th is a minor detail that I'm choosing to ignore. I'm also ignoring the fact that my particular electro-quartz didn't roll off the production line until 1973.
Edited:
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Dan S
·I bought my brother a birth year watch for his 50th. But even as a seasoned watch hunter, I gave myself a year to hunt it down and get it serviced. And I chose a Seiko, because they are dated on the caseback.
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BrokenSkunk
·I bought my brother a birth year watch for his 50th. But even as a seasoned watch hunter, I gave myself a year to hunt it down and get it serviced. And I chose a Seiko, because they are dated on the caseback.
I've also had a GS from Scott in June of this year. It's bloody lovely.
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Peemacgee
··Purrrr-veyor of luxury cat box loungersI don’t necessarily think that wanting a birth year watch is silly in anyway.
But
Setting aside the first release date premise (which I confess I haven’t heard of until today) - dating an Omega accurately is very difficult.
Is it the date the movement was made - by serial number ? - which can be a very movable feast of a couple of years.
Or is it the date on an extract I.e. when it was sent out from Omega? (The only fixed date actually)
Or finally is it the date it was sold? (By date on the papers or receipt) - which again can be a number of years after it was manufactured or sent out by Omega.
But
Setting aside the first release date premise (which I confess I haven’t heard of until today) - dating an Omega accurately is very difficult.
Is it the date the movement was made - by serial number ? - which can be a very movable feast of a couple of years.
Or is it the date on an extract I.e. when it was sent out from Omega? (The only fixed date actually)
Or finally is it the date it was sold? (By date on the papers or receipt) - which again can be a number of years after it was manufactured or sent out by Omega.
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BrokenSkunk
·Setting aside the first release date premise (which I confess I haven’t heard of until today) - dating an Omega accurately is very difficult.
Yeah OK, they've all been tweaked. The modern Oyster looks nothing like it's great Grand daddy. So if a significant tweak was released in your birth year, then I guess...
But what I was trying to get at was 70's watches had a very distinctive 70's style. Pierre Cardin's Espace range (for example) is eponymous with the early 70's in a way that a 1970's Oyster just isn't. What's the point of a "Birth year watch" if it doesn't evoke the era?
But yes, I also agree with all your other points. My "Birth day" electroquartz was made three years after I was. It will have been sold 6 months to a year after that (I have an archive extract somewhere, it came with one, last seen under a pile of car parts in my garage.) But it screams April 10th 1970 (cough - Apollo 13 - cough) in a way that few other watches can.
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SOG53
·My "Birth day" electroquartz was made three years after I was.
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ilikecakes
·Last one and then I’ll go away: would be very grateful for opinions on the following. From what others have said, it might be overpriced (£895) however there is some negotiation room and it’s from a seller with good reviews, gene verified etc. Aware also that I will suffer by overpaying when up against a tight deadline…..
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BrokenSkunk
·I'm a relative newbie compared to the guys here. The only thing that jumps out at me is that the hour battens appear to be tarnished, whilst the dial is as clean as a whistle.
Generally if the battens are tarnished, I wouldn't expect to see perfect paint.
The case looks OK, here's a more sensibly priced one (to compare it to). 200 Yen to the £ at the moment.
https://www.jauce.com/auction/e1208588766
Generally if the battens are tarnished, I wouldn't expect to see perfect paint.
The case looks OK, here's a more sensibly priced one (to compare it to). 200 Yen to the £ at the moment.
https://www.jauce.com/auction/e1208588766
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Dan S
·Are you sure that you like that watch?
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ilikecakes
·Are you sure that you like that watch?
However, I’ve done my own research now from a variety of sources. Thank you to the majority of posters who were thoughtful and helpful here. I’ve made my choice, done my research and got something I’m happy with and which has been verified - as far as is possible - by helpful people both on the internet and in person. It might limit your choices trying to find things in a hurry, but it’s not at all impossible!
Thanks again.
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Dan S
·Second time now that you’ve posted a very abrupt and slightly odd response to a post I’ve put up. Last time you edited it after I called you out on it so I expect you may do the same this time (as you did to another poster too who had posted on this thread). Yes, I was sure that I liked that watch, which I why I posted it.
However, I’ve done my own research now from a variety of sources. Thank you to the majority of posters who were thoughtful and helpful here. I’ve made my choice, done my research and got something I’m happy with and which has been verified - as far as is possible - by helpful people both on the internet and in person. It might limit your choices trying to find things in a hurry, but it’s not at all impossible!
Thanks again.
You may not appreciate honesty and candor, but some people do. I would say that you are choosing watches that many people find unappealing, in a misplaced effort to pick something from a particular year. Over time I’ve seen many people do a similar thing and later regret it. So I made a couple of posts in the hope that you might at least give this issue some consideration.
You’re welcome to ignore my posts.
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Porteroso
·I think the latest is quite clean. I don't like the lugs, but the style is a very basic, very clean style, and you might like that. If you do, dont overpay. (I know you might have to) $350 should be more than enough for this. There is a Geneve on an ebay auction right now I expect to sell for under 350.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/236466451474
https://www.ebay.com/itm/236466451474
This website may earn commission from Ebay sales.
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Killwolf
·Thank you and I had seen this post - super helpful. Any ideas on my Chrono 24 questions please?
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SOG53
·Chrono24 is just a selling platform, and don't expect any certifications or guarantees from them. Like with any platform you need to do your own research before buying.
Dealers on Chrono24 tend to be quite overpriced, but again nothing replaces your own diligence and knowledge of market for watch you are considering. I believe there is some return option if you buy from dealer.
Buying from Private Sellers has no actual return guarantee- but there is an escrow system by which they hold payment until buyer indicates they are satisfied, or after 7 days post delivery. They generally stay out of disputes and encourage parties to resolve, but in my experience they are quite reasonable. Their fees are 6%, lower than ebay 15%.
I have bought and sold on Chrono as a private seller with no significant issues.
Dealers on Chrono24 tend to be quite overpriced, but again nothing replaces your own diligence and knowledge of market for watch you are considering. I believe there is some return option if you buy from dealer.
Buying from Private Sellers has no actual return guarantee- but there is an escrow system by which they hold payment until buyer indicates they are satisfied, or after 7 days post delivery. They generally stay out of disputes and encourage parties to resolve, but in my experience they are quite reasonable. Their fees are 6%, lower than ebay 15%.
I have bought and sold on Chrono as a private seller with no significant issues.
