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I've worn Paul Sebastian since I was in high school.
I have worn the same cologne since the 80's - Obsession for Men, its has been reformulated over the years, lost some of the patchouli base I liked but still a scent I enjoy. Over the years I have tried to discover new scents most of them made me ill, so I would throw in the towel and go back to my tried and true. This thread has prompted me to go back to looking once again. So far I have samples of a few Penhaligons scents (Sartorial, Constantinople, Mr Penhaligon,Endymoin) Aesop Marrakech and Amouage Boundless. I have been rotating these, and so far nothing I am totally on board with. Constantinople is leading the pack but there is a period where the rose scent comes forward and I am not too sure how I feel about that.
Anything with rose makes my nose say "old woman nearing death"... but everyone is different, some like rose some do not.
Glad to read you're enjoying the process though.
The rose hits me with the funeral home vibe, in addition to the making it feel likes more geared towards a women's fragrance. The scent that turns me off more than rose is cedar, and there are so many scents with a heavy cedar base.
I've worn Chanel Pour Monsieur for about 30 years now - I just like the smell!
I have worn the same cologne since the 80's - Obsession for Men, its has been reformulated over the years, lost some of the patchouli base I liked but still a scent I enjoy. Over the years I have tried to discover new scents most of them made me ill, so I would throw in the towel and go back to my tried and true. This thread has prompted me to go back to looking once again. So far I have samples of a few Penhaligons scents (Sartorial, Constantinople, Mr Penhaligon,Endymoin) Aesop Marrakech and Amouage Boundless. I have been rotating these, and so far nothing I am totally on board with. Constantinople is leading the pack but there is a period where the rose scent comes forward and I am not too sure how I feel about that.
Read about where some perfumes derive their essence, and you’ll go back to Varsol.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castoreum
I’ll let Scott speak to his own love affair with BAV, but I ended up buying his Antaeus off of him since he got stuck in a cloud of rose. I still have half a bottle but it’s one of my fav’s so I just bought his so he wouldn’t be stuck with it and I will have another bottle in stock.
BAV is the bee's knees, absolutely love it! But sadly, and as James points out above, the Antaeus flooded me in a cloud of rose my olfactories could not escape so off East it traveled.
Yes, Carlisle and Herod are amazing and on my ever-increasing "To Buy" list. Wanted to love Greenley but apparently it wasn't meant to be -- Layton got adopted by my wife and the others (names escaping me currently) while nice only stayed Nice not Amazing.
Have ordered and am waiting on bottles of Equipage, Eau Sauvage EDP and Amouage Opus XIII Silver Oud (that one's gonna hurt if it isn't love).
The use of glandular secretions in perfumery goes way back. In addition to castoreum, there's civet (civet cat) musk (musk deer), and many others. Another interesting one is ambergris (a sperm whale digestive byproduct) that is used as a base in high-end fragrances. Usage of these "oils" isn't as common anymore, at least in the mainstream, and a lot of them now have been replaced with a synthesized aromachemicals.
Said it before, saying it again... love me some sperm whale digestive byproduct.
I have 2 bottles of Saratorial, I loved it so much when I bought it I bought a second bottle. But after a few months I realized the dry-down just kind of drones, it’s nice but it can get a bit cloying.
Said it before, saying it again... love me some sperm whale digestive byproduct.
I should have called it what it really is...whale phlegm. If we ever have a scent/watch pairing thread, I know what I'm wearing...
I think alot of people don’t really understand how fragrances work. They are oils suspended in alcohol as the vehicle to get them on to your skin. The alcohol evaporates almost immediately leaving the oils to work with your skin’s heat and ph to off-gas a scent. As these oils start to evaporate slowly, they begin to reveal their layers and complexity.
The brightest scents are the ones you smell right out of the bottle usually
citrus or delicate florals and grasses- they tend to fade out in the first hour or so. If a fragrance were simply these oils it wouldn’t last long and would smell like sprayed lemon pledge. Next come woods and tonka- they tend to be more subtle so stay back at first but as the top notes die off they come forward. Last are the bass notes which imo are the most vital, leathers, dark woods and moss. They are the foundation of the fragrance and are the longest lasting.
A well blended fragrance has a progression through the day and dies down to a subtle skin scent- ideally the whole progression should happen over the course of abojt 8-10 hours and not be done in 2.
Many of the vintage fragrances are very much a product of their time and tell a story about the fashions and wonder of the period. The exotic spices of Bay rum speaking to travel and far away places.
The clean baber shop smell of Brut speaking to desire modernity and cleanliness, the aldehydes in Chanel #5 that speak to the future is now- a sharp contrast to the almost Victorian florals of Guerline at the time.
Some can even mimic the smell of something else. Eau de Hermes (1951) was a great example of mimicking smells. The goal was to emulate the smell of an inside of leather Hermes handbag. Think of the notes that would come out in a well loved purse from the 40’s- candy, cosmetics, tobacco, hygiene products etc. it’s not just leather- it’s all the things that come together to make that particular smell (I remember what my mothers purses smelled like inside- very distinctive).
Here is the list of ingredients in Eau de Hermes:
Top notes are Bergamot, Lavender, Lemon, Petitgrain and Sage; middle notes are Cardamom, Cinnamon, Cumin, Bourbon Geranium, Jasmine, Coriander and Cloves; base notes are Leather, Birch, Sandalwood, Tonka Bean, Cedar, Vanilla, Moss and Labdanum.
When you smell it- it smells like the inside of a purse from the mid-20th century…pretty fυcking amazing.
A very good summary - and now I want to go smell Eau de Hermes @JwRosenthal.
For men.I too like Chanel L’Egoiste.
But with all due respect, the mission given by the OP’s wife is ridiculous.
Likes or dislikes when it comes to fragrances is deeply personal and subjective. fragrances fall into several separate categories, and it’s impossible to guess what someone might like if they don’t give you some clues.
Key categories for women include floral fragrances or oriental ones (warm sensual notes including amber, vanilla, musk).
Some are dominated by citrus, wooded or otherwise herbal scents.
If someone cannot pin down what types of scent they like, it’s impossible to figure it out for them.
It’s picking a watch for someone without knowing if they like sports watches or dress watches, what size, etc.
First question is, did this person like a fragrance at one point and what type was it? What were the components?
Then you just have to go to stores and test -
bearing in mind your nose can only take three tests in a day and gets confused after three.