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PlainVanilla
·Oh God. What am I even doing?
As the 'ULTIMATE' Seamaster de Ville thread is well under way with all Swiss references listed and all consumables gathered in a single thread, I thought Constellations should be next.
Here, I will list ALL case, end links and bracelet references, consumables like crystals and crowns and talk about the history of that legendary series and more. Welcome to the 'ultimate' thread dedicated to Omega's chronometer graded series of timepieces!
Although the Omega Constellation was introduced in 1952, its story started in 1948 as Omega celebrated its 100th anniversary. That year, Omega made a present to itself by introducing the Seamaster line, an everyday watch made for sea, city and country designed by René Banwart that would change the company for ever. And in parallel, Omega also released a limited edition chronometer graded solid gold timepiece also designed by Banwart and called the Centenary.
But the Centenary was a stepping-stone leading to the introduction of a non-limited series based on the same principles: a high-end luxury case housing a robust chronometer graded movement. This series would bear the name 'Constellation' as a hint to the Kew-Teddington and Geneva observatories that hosted performance trials through which the most prestigious watchmakers would compete on the field of timekeeping accuracy. Its name would be visually represented by a medallion on the watch caseback featuring an observatory and a constellation of eight stars above it. The eight stars symbolize two chronometer records set at the Kew-Teddington Observatory in 1933 and 1936, and six first place awards that Omega earned between 1933 and 1952, the year the Constellation was introduced. The Seamaster line would later earn its own medallion in 1957, representing one of Neptune's hippocampus, a symbol of protection against the hazard of the sea used by the Venetian navy, and still visible on gondolas as a tribute to the past.
Due to an active copyright by Lockheed Constellation at the time, this series was first introduced in the United States under the name 'Globemaster', which was also the name of another American aircraft, the Douglas C-124. As this copyright expired in the mid-fifties, the name 'Globemaster' (that wasn't even always featured on the dial) was progressively dropped in the US and replaced by the name 'Constellation'.
Of course, the name 'Constellation' is indissociable from the name of the legendary designer Gerald Genta. Genta began his career at Universal Genève and is most famous there for designing the Polerouter at the age of 23 in 1954, although other designs from this era clearly bear his signature look. In parallel, Genta worked independently for several case and dial manufacturers working with Omega and although we will never know the full depth of his influence on the design of Seamasters and other series, his most famous alledged creation for Omega during this period is the 'Pie Pan' dial. Introduced in 1952 on Constellation reference 2699 considered at the time as the 'Grand Luxe' version of the chronometer graded series, this 12-sided dial was originally made of solid gold and featured a brushed flat center and polished edges, with diamond-shaped indexes. Its angular shape clearly bears the roots of later Genta designs like the bezel of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus. The 'Pie Pan' dial was later introduced in more Constellation references to become a strong symbol of the series.
At the time, Gerald Genta worked with different case and dial manufacturers working with Omega, designing pieces independently. These pieces were designed to be assembled together in a multitude of possible combinations. In 1964, Omega introduced the C-Cased Constellation reference 168.009, the first Omega watch integrally designed by Genta as a complete and coherent watch.
The era of the C-Cased Constellation lasted until 1978, but Gerald Genta's influence on the Constellation line still lives today with the modern Omega Constellation Globemaster line which features a 'Pie-Pan' dial and a case shaped after the C-Cased Constellation designed by Genta.
Omega Constellation references
Letters preceding or following European serial numbers and their meaning:
- CK/MI: steel (pre-1962),
- OT/OJ: solid gold (pre-1962),
- KO: gold cap (pre-1962),
- PK: gold filled (pre-1962),
- ST: steel (post-1962),
- BA: yellow gold (post-1962),
- BC: white gold (post-1962),
- BG: pink gold (post-1962),
- CD: gold cap (post-1962),
- BCT: bracelet (post-1962),
- SP: strap (post-1962).
For instance, ST 168.009/BCT stands for case reference 168.009 in steel with a matching bracelet.
The meaning of six digit reference numbers:
Omega employed six digit reference codes from 1962 to the mid-1990s. While the last three digits are just factory model numbers, the first three digits give useful information about the watch.
First digit:
1 - Men's watch,
2 - Men's jewelry watch,
3 - Men's bracelet watch,
4 - Men's jewelry bracelet watch,
5 - Lady's watch,
6 - Lady's jewelry watch,
7 - Lady's bracelet watch,
8 - Lady's jewelry bracelet watch.
Second digit:
1 - Manual winding without seconds,
2 - Manual winding small seconds,
3 - Manual winding center seconds,
4 - Manual winding chronograph,
5 - Self-winding without seconds,
6 - Self-winding center seconds,
7 - Self-winding chronograph,
8 - Electronic chronograph,
9 - Electronic.
Third digit:
1 - Non-water resistant,
2 - Non-water resistant calendar,
3 - Non-water resistant chronometer,
4 - Non-water resistant chronometer calendar,
5 - Water resistant,
6 - Water resistant calendar,
7 - Water resistant chronometer,
8 - Water resistant chronometer calendar.
Due to the heavy taxes and importation fees imposed by some countries on precious metals, Omega and many other watchmakers had cases made of precious metals manufactured directly in several countries by local manufacturers.
Automatic chronometer Constellation references
Swiss Constellation references:
- 2648: curvy legs,
- 2652: curvy legs,
- 2782,
- 2853,
- 2887,
- 2930,
- 7005: curvy legs, De Luxe, 18K solid gold with 18K solid gold dial, date, on a crocodile strap,
- 67004: Grand Luxe, 18K solid gold with 18K solid gold dial, date, on a 18K gold bracelet,
- 7015: curvy legs, 18K solid gold with onyx markers, date,
- 7017: curvy legs, 14K gold cap, date,
- 7019: curvy legs, steel, date,
- 7025: De Luxe, 18K solid gold with 18K solid gold dial, on a crocodile strap,
- 67024: Grand Luxe, 18K solid gold with 18K solid gold dial on a 18K solid gold bracelet,
- 7035: 18K solid gold on a crocodile strap,
- 7047: 14K gold cap,
- 7055: steel,
- 14382,
- 14394,
- 14355,
- 14395,
- 14396,
- 14777,
- 14778,
- 14900,
- 14902/3,
- 14918,
- 18781,
- 2699: curvy legs, Grand Luxe, 18K solid gold, screwed caseback(1952-1962),
- 2700: curvy legs, Grand Luxe, 18K solid gold, snapped caseback (1952-1962),
- 2852: curvy legs (1952-1962),
- 2943: curvy legs, date (1958-1962),
- 14381: lyre lug (1958-1962),
- 14393: lyre lug, date (1958-1962),
- 168.001,
- 168.002,
- 167.005: dog-leg (1962-1970),
- 167.006: dog-leg, with deluxe gold dial,
- 168.004: hidden crown, date,
- 168.005: dog-leg, date,
- 168.006: dog-leg, De Luxe, 18K solid gold with a 18K solid gold dial on a crocodile strap,
- 168.008: C-Cased, date, 18K solid yellow gold case and 18K solid white gold bezel, 18K solid yellow gold dial, cal. 564,
- 168.016,
- 168.018,
- 167.006: dog-leg, De Luxe, 18K solid gold on a crocodile strap,
- 167.015 : monocoque, flat dial,
- 167.021,
- 167.025: monocoque, Pie-pan dial,
- 168.009: C-Cased, date, cal. 561 (1964-1966),
- 168.010/04: hidden crown, date,
- 168.011: hidden crown, date,
- 168.014: hidden crown, date,
- 168.015: monocoque, date, flat dial,
- 168.017: C-Cased, date, cal. 564 (1966-1972),
- 168.027: C-Cased, date, cal. 564 (1966-1972),
- 168.019: C-Cased, day/date, cal. 751 (1967-1972),
- 168.025: monocoque, date, Pie-pan dial,
- 368.7004: C-Cased, 18K solid gold with a 18K solid gold dial and a 18K solid gold bracelet, date,
- 168.029: C-Cased, day/date, cal. 751 (1967-1972),
- 168.0056: C-Cased, date, cal. 1011 (1972-1978),
- 168.0057: C-Cased, day/date, cal. 1021 (1972-1977).
French Constellation references:
- 168.3004: 18K solid gold,
- 168.3005: 18K solid gold.
English Constellation references:
- 368.802: Grand Luxe, 18K solid gold with a solid gold dial and a 18K solid gold bracelet, date,
- 368.5416: dog-leg, 18K solid gold on a 18K solid gold bracelet, date,
- 168.5004: hidden crown, 18K solid gold on a crocodile strap, date,
- 368.5009: C-Cased, 18K gold with a 18K gold dial on a 18K gold bracelet, date,
- 368.5417: dog-leg, 18K solid gold with a 18K solid gold dial on a 18K solid gold bracelet, date,
- 368.5470/71: 18K solid gold with a 18K solid gold dial with onyx markers on a 18K solid gold integrated bracelet,
- 168.5004: hidden crown, 18K gold with a silvered dial on a crocodile strap, date,
- 168.5415: dog-leg, 18K solid gold with a 18K solid gold dial with onyx markers on a crocodile strap,
- 168.5416: curvy legs, 18K yellow gold with a silvered dial on a crocodile strap, date,
- 168.5417: curvy legs, 18K yellow gold with a gold dial on a crocodile strap, date.
Brazilian Constellation references:
- 168.9005: 18K solid gold.
I am still figuring out all the references so be patient, it will look much cleaner in a couple days.
Inscriptions at the bottom of dials and their meaning
- SWISS MADE: up to the mid-sixties, this inscription indicates that the watch was integrally Swiss made, including the case. Does not apply beyond around 1965 after which even American manufactured case references bear this indication,
- SWISS: up to the mid-sixties, this inscription indicates that the case was not manufactured in Switzerland. This inscription disappeared around 1965,
- T SWISS MADE T: the two 'T' letters indicate the presence of tritium on the dial emitting less than 25 mCi (925 MBq). This inscription appeared in January 1964 after a Swiss interior ruling in October 1963 on radiation from luminous watch dials, and older watches can contain tritium without it being indicated in that fashion,
- SWISS MADE T: indicates the presence of tritium on the dial without specifying its emission levels,
- OM SWISS MADE OM: stands for French 'Or massif' and indicates a solid gold dial. This indication was introduced in 1973 amongst watchmakers who are members of the APRIOR (l'Association pour la Promotion Industrielle de l'Or). Older solid gold dials do not bear this indication,
- σ SWISS MADE σ: on watches made by watchmakers who are members of the APRIOR (l'Association pour la Promotion Industrielle de l'Or) including Omega, indicates that the hands and indexes are made of solid gold. This indication only appeared in 1973 and many Omega watches prior to that date feature solid gold indexes and hands without it being advertised in that fashion.
The case of the100.000 consecutive Omega 561 chronometers
All consecutive cal. 561 serial numbers ranging from 24.410.000 to 24.509.999 achieved 'especially good results' during their testing by the Bureau de Marche between the 5th of October 1964 and the 10th of February 1966, which illustrates Omega's constant attention to detail and quality during this period.
This thread will soon be amended with period catalogues, end links, bracelets and consumables references. For now, I have to post it 'as is' or I will get lost in all that text and pictures.
Thanks for reading!
As the 'ULTIMATE' Seamaster de Ville thread is well under way with all Swiss references listed and all consumables gathered in a single thread, I thought Constellations should be next.
Here, I will list ALL case, end links and bracelet references, consumables like crystals and crowns and talk about the history of that legendary series and more. Welcome to the 'ultimate' thread dedicated to Omega's chronometer graded series of timepieces!
Although the Omega Constellation was introduced in 1952, its story started in 1948 as Omega celebrated its 100th anniversary. That year, Omega made a present to itself by introducing the Seamaster line, an everyday watch made for sea, city and country designed by René Banwart that would change the company for ever. And in parallel, Omega also released a limited edition chronometer graded solid gold timepiece also designed by Banwart and called the Centenary.
But the Centenary was a stepping-stone leading to the introduction of a non-limited series based on the same principles: a high-end luxury case housing a robust chronometer graded movement. This series would bear the name 'Constellation' as a hint to the Kew-Teddington and Geneva observatories that hosted performance trials through which the most prestigious watchmakers would compete on the field of timekeeping accuracy. Its name would be visually represented by a medallion on the watch caseback featuring an observatory and a constellation of eight stars above it. The eight stars symbolize two chronometer records set at the Kew-Teddington Observatory in 1933 and 1936, and six first place awards that Omega earned between 1933 and 1952, the year the Constellation was introduced. The Seamaster line would later earn its own medallion in 1957, representing one of Neptune's hippocampus, a symbol of protection against the hazard of the sea used by the Venetian navy, and still visible on gondolas as a tribute to the past.
Due to an active copyright by Lockheed Constellation at the time, this series was first introduced in the United States under the name 'Globemaster', which was also the name of another American aircraft, the Douglas C-124. As this copyright expired in the mid-fifties, the name 'Globemaster' (that wasn't even always featured on the dial) was progressively dropped in the US and replaced by the name 'Constellation'.
Of course, the name 'Constellation' is indissociable from the name of the legendary designer Gerald Genta. Genta began his career at Universal Genève and is most famous there for designing the Polerouter at the age of 23 in 1954, although other designs from this era clearly bear his signature look. In parallel, Genta worked independently for several case and dial manufacturers working with Omega and although we will never know the full depth of his influence on the design of Seamasters and other series, his most famous alledged creation for Omega during this period is the 'Pie Pan' dial. Introduced in 1952 on Constellation reference 2699 considered at the time as the 'Grand Luxe' version of the chronometer graded series, this 12-sided dial was originally made of solid gold and featured a brushed flat center and polished edges, with diamond-shaped indexes. Its angular shape clearly bears the roots of later Genta designs like the bezel of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus. The 'Pie Pan' dial was later introduced in more Constellation references to become a strong symbol of the series.
At the time, Gerald Genta worked with different case and dial manufacturers working with Omega, designing pieces independently. These pieces were designed to be assembled together in a multitude of possible combinations. In 1964, Omega introduced the C-Cased Constellation reference 168.009, the first Omega watch integrally designed by Genta as a complete and coherent watch.
The era of the C-Cased Constellation lasted until 1978, but Gerald Genta's influence on the Constellation line still lives today with the modern Omega Constellation Globemaster line which features a 'Pie-Pan' dial and a case shaped after the C-Cased Constellation designed by Genta.
Omega Constellation references
Letters preceding or following European serial numbers and their meaning:
- CK/MI: steel (pre-1962),
- OT/OJ: solid gold (pre-1962),
- KO: gold cap (pre-1962),
- PK: gold filled (pre-1962),
- ST: steel (post-1962),
- BA: yellow gold (post-1962),
- BC: white gold (post-1962),
- BG: pink gold (post-1962),
- CD: gold cap (post-1962),
- BCT: bracelet (post-1962),
- SP: strap (post-1962).
For instance, ST 168.009/BCT stands for case reference 168.009 in steel with a matching bracelet.
The meaning of six digit reference numbers:
Omega employed six digit reference codes from 1962 to the mid-1990s. While the last three digits are just factory model numbers, the first three digits give useful information about the watch.
First digit:
1 - Men's watch,
2 - Men's jewelry watch,
3 - Men's bracelet watch,
4 - Men's jewelry bracelet watch,
5 - Lady's watch,
6 - Lady's jewelry watch,
7 - Lady's bracelet watch,
8 - Lady's jewelry bracelet watch.
Second digit:
1 - Manual winding without seconds,
2 - Manual winding small seconds,
3 - Manual winding center seconds,
4 - Manual winding chronograph,
5 - Self-winding without seconds,
6 - Self-winding center seconds,
7 - Self-winding chronograph,
8 - Electronic chronograph,
9 - Electronic.
Third digit:
1 - Non-water resistant,
2 - Non-water resistant calendar,
3 - Non-water resistant chronometer,
4 - Non-water resistant chronometer calendar,
5 - Water resistant,
6 - Water resistant calendar,
7 - Water resistant chronometer,
8 - Water resistant chronometer calendar.
Due to the heavy taxes and importation fees imposed by some countries on precious metals, Omega and many other watchmakers had cases made of precious metals manufactured directly in several countries by local manufacturers.
Automatic chronometer Constellation references
Swiss Constellation references:
- 2648: curvy legs,
- 2652: curvy legs,
- 2782,
- 2853,
- 2887,
- 2930,
- 7005: curvy legs, De Luxe, 18K solid gold with 18K solid gold dial, date, on a crocodile strap,
- 67004: Grand Luxe, 18K solid gold with 18K solid gold dial, date, on a 18K gold bracelet,
- 7015: curvy legs, 18K solid gold with onyx markers, date,
- 7017: curvy legs, 14K gold cap, date,
- 7019: curvy legs, steel, date,
- 7025: De Luxe, 18K solid gold with 18K solid gold dial, on a crocodile strap,
- 67024: Grand Luxe, 18K solid gold with 18K solid gold dial on a 18K solid gold bracelet,
- 7035: 18K solid gold on a crocodile strap,
- 7047: 14K gold cap,
- 7055: steel,
- 14382,
- 14394,
- 14355,
- 14395,
- 14396,
- 14777,
- 14778,
- 14900,
- 14902/3,
- 14918,
- 18781,
- 2699: curvy legs, Grand Luxe, 18K solid gold, screwed caseback(1952-1962),
- 2700: curvy legs, Grand Luxe, 18K solid gold, snapped caseback (1952-1962),
- 2852: curvy legs (1952-1962),
- 2943: curvy legs, date (1958-1962),
- 14381: lyre lug (1958-1962),
- 14393: lyre lug, date (1958-1962),
- 168.001,
- 168.002,
- 167.005: dog-leg (1962-1970),
- 167.006: dog-leg, with deluxe gold dial,
- 168.004: hidden crown, date,
- 168.005: dog-leg, date,
- 168.006: dog-leg, De Luxe, 18K solid gold with a 18K solid gold dial on a crocodile strap,
- 168.008: C-Cased, date, 18K solid yellow gold case and 18K solid white gold bezel, 18K solid yellow gold dial, cal. 564,
- 168.016,
- 168.018,
- 167.006: dog-leg, De Luxe, 18K solid gold on a crocodile strap,
- 167.015 : monocoque, flat dial,
- 167.021,
- 167.025: monocoque, Pie-pan dial,
- 168.009: C-Cased, date, cal. 561 (1964-1966),
- 168.010/04: hidden crown, date,
- 168.011: hidden crown, date,
- 168.014: hidden crown, date,
- 168.015: monocoque, date, flat dial,
- 168.017: C-Cased, date, cal. 564 (1966-1972),
- 168.027: C-Cased, date, cal. 564 (1966-1972),
- 168.019: C-Cased, day/date, cal. 751 (1967-1972),
- 168.025: monocoque, date, Pie-pan dial,
- 368.7004: C-Cased, 18K solid gold with a 18K solid gold dial and a 18K solid gold bracelet, date,
- 168.029: C-Cased, day/date, cal. 751 (1967-1972),
- 168.0056: C-Cased, date, cal. 1011 (1972-1978),
- 168.0057: C-Cased, day/date, cal. 1021 (1972-1977).
French Constellation references:
- 168.3004: 18K solid gold,
- 168.3005: 18K solid gold.
English Constellation references:
- 368.802: Grand Luxe, 18K solid gold with a solid gold dial and a 18K solid gold bracelet, date,
- 368.5416: dog-leg, 18K solid gold on a 18K solid gold bracelet, date,
- 168.5004: hidden crown, 18K solid gold on a crocodile strap, date,
- 368.5009: C-Cased, 18K gold with a 18K gold dial on a 18K gold bracelet, date,
- 368.5417: dog-leg, 18K solid gold with a 18K solid gold dial on a 18K solid gold bracelet, date,
- 368.5470/71: 18K solid gold with a 18K solid gold dial with onyx markers on a 18K solid gold integrated bracelet,
- 168.5004: hidden crown, 18K gold with a silvered dial on a crocodile strap, date,
- 168.5415: dog-leg, 18K solid gold with a 18K solid gold dial with onyx markers on a crocodile strap,
- 168.5416: curvy legs, 18K yellow gold with a silvered dial on a crocodile strap, date,
- 168.5417: curvy legs, 18K yellow gold with a gold dial on a crocodile strap, date.
Brazilian Constellation references:
- 168.9005: 18K solid gold.
I am still figuring out all the references so be patient, it will look much cleaner in a couple days.
Inscriptions at the bottom of dials and their meaning
- SWISS MADE: up to the mid-sixties, this inscription indicates that the watch was integrally Swiss made, including the case. Does not apply beyond around 1965 after which even American manufactured case references bear this indication,
- SWISS: up to the mid-sixties, this inscription indicates that the case was not manufactured in Switzerland. This inscription disappeared around 1965,
- T SWISS MADE T: the two 'T' letters indicate the presence of tritium on the dial emitting less than 25 mCi (925 MBq). This inscription appeared in January 1964 after a Swiss interior ruling in October 1963 on radiation from luminous watch dials, and older watches can contain tritium without it being indicated in that fashion,
- SWISS MADE T: indicates the presence of tritium on the dial without specifying its emission levels,
- OM SWISS MADE OM: stands for French 'Or massif' and indicates a solid gold dial. This indication was introduced in 1973 amongst watchmakers who are members of the APRIOR (l'Association pour la Promotion Industrielle de l'Or). Older solid gold dials do not bear this indication,
- σ SWISS MADE σ: on watches made by watchmakers who are members of the APRIOR (l'Association pour la Promotion Industrielle de l'Or) including Omega, indicates that the hands and indexes are made of solid gold. This indication only appeared in 1973 and many Omega watches prior to that date feature solid gold indexes and hands without it being advertised in that fashion.
The case of the100.000 consecutive Omega 561 chronometers
All consecutive cal. 561 serial numbers ranging from 24.410.000 to 24.509.999 achieved 'especially good results' during their testing by the Bureau de Marche between the 5th of October 1964 and the 10th of February 1966, which illustrates Omega's constant attention to detail and quality during this period.
This thread will soon be amended with period catalogues, end links, bracelets and consumables references. For now, I have to post it 'as is' or I will get lost in all that text and pictures.
Thanks for reading!
Edited:
