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Speedmaster101 price chart update (aug 23)
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pdxleaf
·Pictures help
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Mad Dog
·I sold it to the right guy. But if you scratch it all up or spill coffee on it, Collin, I'm taking it back. 😁
LATE ENTRY BONUS: Sid Phillips…
Edited:
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bananapeanut
·We can't praise William enough for keeping Speedmaster101 up to date. Thank you, Sir ! And thanks @hansaboy for the post 😉
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gbesq
·We can't praise William enough for keeping Speedmaster101 up to date. Thank you, Sir !
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Mad Dog
·Yes…many thanks to @Spacefruit (William) for Speedmaster101 and @hansaboy for the update heads up.
👍 👍
👍 👍
👍 👍
👍 👍
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eugeneandresson
·
Not trying to blow my own trumpet here but if this is the classification standard (and i feel it fair to say it is as Mr Fruit is a force of nature in the Speedmaster world and wrote the instructions) then i am one of the very few (rare!) conservative ones who under-classify my watches on said chart. Its not easy this…ill pat myself on the back and show myself out…
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itsjustausername
·I hear ya - I don’t have a speedy, but suspect I’d struggle to cast a watch in “Very Good” condition if it had no tritium left on the indexes (as appears to be the case in the example?)
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Spacefruit
··Prolific Speedmaster HoarderThe three examples shown each had challenging characteristics, which is why they have double grades.
The GOOD / VERY GOOD 145.022 is a case in point.
It is a together and correct watch, with a lower quality bezel. The rest is very good, with a clean sharp case and a clean dial with good lume coverage - although that lume colour is not to everyone taste, having a greenish hue, typical of some of the stepped dials from the era. The photo as shown is hard to judge, and underlines why I prefer hi res photos to make assessments. Here is the link to hi res photo showing clearly lume is present and covering markers.
Change the bezel on this watch and it would be VERY GOOD - albeit value downgraded (in my opinion) compared to a dial with more attractive (to me!) colouration.
These particular examples may not be the easiest examples to illustrate the system, as they were deliberately chosen to be offered at attractive prices. So they each had a little reason to be cheaper. Apart from the 145.012 which was spectacular all through.
The grading is really arbitrary, but honestly I miss it when I look for instance at Rolex GMT's.
I find my system does two things. Makes me critically go through each part in turn. Second, I arrive at a justifiable value quickly.
Last point:
A "justifiable value" then gives me a jumping off point to raise or lower my idea based on how attractive I find it. I have once over paid by 60% my "Justifiable Value" and never regretted it. By the same logic I underpaid by 20% and still it might have been expensive.
Got to follow your heart
The GOOD / VERY GOOD 145.022 is a case in point.
It is a together and correct watch, with a lower quality bezel. The rest is very good, with a clean sharp case and a clean dial with good lume coverage - although that lume colour is not to everyone taste, having a greenish hue, typical of some of the stepped dials from the era. The photo as shown is hard to judge, and underlines why I prefer hi res photos to make assessments. Here is the link to hi res photo showing clearly lume is present and covering markers.
Change the bezel on this watch and it would be VERY GOOD - albeit value downgraded (in my opinion) compared to a dial with more attractive (to me!) colouration.
These particular examples may not be the easiest examples to illustrate the system, as they were deliberately chosen to be offered at attractive prices. So they each had a little reason to be cheaper. Apart from the 145.012 which was spectacular all through.
The grading is really arbitrary, but honestly I miss it when I look for instance at Rolex GMT's.
I find my system does two things. Makes me critically go through each part in turn. Second, I arrive at a justifiable value quickly.
Last point:
A "justifiable value" then gives me a jumping off point to raise or lower my idea based on how attractive I find it. I have once over paid by 60% my "Justifiable Value" and never regretted it. By the same logic I underpaid by 20% and still it might have been expensive.
Got to follow your heart
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pdxleaf
·The three examples shown each had challenging characteristics, which is why they have double grades.
The GOOD / VERY GOOD 145.022 is a case in point.
It is a together and correct watch, with a lower quality bezel. The rest is very good, with a clean sharp case and a clean dial with good lume coverage - although that lume colour is not to everyone taste, having a greenish hue, typical of some of the stepped dials from the era. The photo as shown is hard to judge, and underlines why I prefer hi res photos to make assessments. Here is the link to hi res photo showing clearly lume is present and covering markers.
Change the bezel on this watch and it would be VERY GOOD - albeit value downgraded (in my opinion) compared to a dial with more attractive (to me!) colouration.
These particular examples may not be the easiest examples to illustrate the system, as they were deliberately chosen to be offered at attractive prices. So they each had a little reason to be cheaper. Apart from the 145.012 which was spectacular all through.
The grading is really arbitrary, but honestly I miss it when I look for instance at Rolex GMT's.
I find my system does two things. Makes me critically go through each part in turn. Second, I arrive at a justifiable value quickly.
Last point:
A "justifiable value" then gives me a jumping off point to raise or lower my idea based on how attractive I find it. I have once over paid by 60% my "Justifiable Value" and never regretted it. By the same logic I underpaid by 20% and still it might have been expensive.
Got to follow your heart
Your system has proven to be the best and most useful, as evidenced by how widely it is referenced.
In my mind, your grading system's biggest challenge is in being used by many people. I have experienced some buyers who mention your list and said my very good to excellent watch could only be good at best because excellent is only NOS in their interpretation.
William states clearly that this is his system. If anyone objects to it, fine, create your own list and use it instead. Trouble is, no one that I am aware of has taken him up on this and created a system that comes anywhere near as useful. So I accept that there will be different interpretations. This system allows for a baseline to then use a common language to discuss the various positive and negative elements to reach a consensus between the buyer and seller.
I wonder if it is ever possible to permanently agree on a condition. Even if there were only one person judging. I have changed my mind often on my own watches. I have had excellent watches that I obsessed over tiny elements that made me miss the overall excellence and enjoyment. I have had other watches that were fair to good that I came to value higher simply because the whole watch fit together so well and I grew to appreciate it more as I wore it. Then there's always another watch that comes along to compare to, making you question your own choices. Grass is greener, etc..
It's frustrating when you sell a watch to a buyer who argues that the condition should be lower based on the speedmaster101 chart, only to have that same buyer exclaim how great the watch is after they see it in person. This is still preferable as a seller, as you don't want it reverse. It's also not the fault of the Speedmaster101 system. It's just human nature.
+1 on Got to follow your heart. Plus, a little experience helps.
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SOG53
·The three examples shown each had challenging characteristics, which is why they have double grades.
The GOOD / VERY GOOD 145.022 is a case in point.
It is a together and correct watch, with a lower quality bezel. The rest is very good, with a clean sharp case and a clean dial with good lume coverage - although that lume colour is not to everyone taste, having a greenish hue, typical of some of the stepped dials from the era. The photo as shown is hard to judge, and underlines why I prefer hi res photos to make assessments. Here is the link to hi res photo showing clearly lume is present and covering markers.
Change the bezel on this watch and it would be VERY GOOD - albeit value downgraded (in my opinion) compared to a dial with more attractive (to me!) colouration.
These particular examples may not be the easiest examples to illustrate the system, as they were deliberately chosen to be offered at attractive prices. So they each had a little reason to be cheaper. Apart from the 145.012 which was spectacular all through.
The grading is really arbitrary, but honestly I miss it when I look for instance at Rolex GMT's.
I find my system does two things. Makes me critically go through each part in turn. Second, I arrive at a justifiable value quickly.
Last point:
A "justifiable value" then gives me a jumping off point to raise or lower my idea based on how attractive I find it. I have once over paid by 60% my "Justifiable Value" and never regretted it. By the same logic I underpaid by 20% and still it might have been expensive.
Got to follow your heart
Thanks for the explanation above. Curious if you might share your assessment/thoughts on the recent Ed White sold at auction yesterday?
Full photos on this link
https://omegaforums.net/threads/105-003-auction-feedback.162666/page-2
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rcs914
·Thanks for the explanation above. Curious if you might share your assessment/thoughts on the recent Ed White sold at auction yesterday?
Full photos on this link
https://omegaforums.net/threads/105-003-auction-feedback.162666/page-2
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Spacefruit
··Prolific Speedmaster HoarderSold for $15,600 equivalent
A lot depends on what is going on under the glass. I think the lume is dirty and will look dull when the rest of the watch is serviced and cleaned. The lume may not be original even, cant tell until we see it properly. Photo is over processed so they could be ok with luck - just have to say it / think of it, in case.
The case is good - Very Good, look at the bevels on the case back, and the sides.
Pushers have the original look, which is good.
Bezel is terrible.
Bracelet probably replaced.
Overall I think its ok, and has papers.
Someone knowingly overpaid to get an original, papered watch. However add in the service and it would be interesting to review the serviced watch, clean with papers, an added box, for $16,000. (All depends on the lume!)
And while its not 2018, those may be original No6 endlinks. Although they might be worn, and not measuring the full 19mm.
A lot depends on what is going on under the glass. I think the lume is dirty and will look dull when the rest of the watch is serviced and cleaned. The lume may not be original even, cant tell until we see it properly. Photo is over processed so they could be ok with luck - just have to say it / think of it, in case.
The case is good - Very Good, look at the bevels on the case back, and the sides.
Pushers have the original look, which is good.
Bezel is terrible.
Bracelet probably replaced.
Overall I think its ok, and has papers.
Someone knowingly overpaid to get an original, papered watch. However add in the service and it would be interesting to review the serviced watch, clean with papers, an added box, for $16,000. (All depends on the lume!)
And while its not 2018, those may be original No6 endlinks. Although they might be worn, and not measuring the full 19mm.
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Ron_W
·Thanks @Spacefruit for your effort and great site, learned a lot from it.
