dan7800
·I have a few 2915's laying around. One is my daily beater I wear while grinding stumps.
Well the subject gets more interesting when the question of valuing a flawed watch comes up.
How much for an otherwise correct watch with only ONE of the following:
A questionable bezel
A re lumed dial
Uncertain origin of hands
A degraded case
A true dealer will put a price on them
Some collectors will turn up their noses and dismiss them. I would argue this camp doesn’t have the stones to buy at this level and the dismissiveness is a defense or they are lucky enough to own one.
Some collectors will say, well it’s not worth the price of the last three auction results, but I would pay $X for it, rather than not have on at all
On the contrary, the fewer available, the higher prices are likely to go.
Right. well. people are throwing out numbers like 50 collector grade 2915s. At some point soon they will all have come to market. Then what? how do you keep breaking records with the same watches?
That was my point.
Right. well. people are throwing out numbers like 50 collector grade 2915s. At some point soon they will all have come to market. Then what? how do you keep breaking records with the same watches?
That was my point.
I understand what you're tossing, I share the same problems in other antique hobbies. Very hard to tell the difference once cleaned and restored.
When you change the strings on your Les Paul, does it become less original? If a pick up fails but you replace it with a correct, original part is the geetar now "wrong"? On the other hand, if someone spray painted over the flambe finish ... how fakked up is that?
10-20% of 1000 is 100-200 😉
Well the subject gets more interesting when the question of valuing a flawed watch comes up.
How much for an otherwise correct watch with only ONE of the following:
A questionable bezel
A re lumed dial
Uncertain origin of hands
A degraded case
A true dealer will put a price on them
Some collectors will turn up their noses and dismiss them. I would argue this camp doesn’t have the stones to buy at this level and the dismissiveness is a defense or they are lucky enough to own one.
Some collectors will say, well it’s not worth the price of the last three auction results, but I would pay $X for it, rather than not have on at all
Indeed.
And the question almost becomes - does it matter?
Only the people buying them can say.
Further thought on this:
When people are buying them as an easy to transport (and hard to tax) asset class, which has a publicly set value, and can slip between borders without a blink, rather than as a watch... does it matter to them at all? does it even matter that it's a watch?
Well the subject gets more interesting when the question of valuing a flawed watch comes up.
How much for an otherwise correct watch with only ONE of the following:
A questionable bezel
A re lumed dial
Uncertain origin of hands
A degraded case
A true dealer will put a price on them
Some collectors will turn up their noses and dismiss them. I would argue this camp doesn’t have the stones to buy at this level and the dismissiveness is a defense or they are lucky enough to own one.
Some collectors will say, well it’s not worth the price of the last three auction results, but I would pay $X for it, rather than not have on at all
How do you know that the 2915-1 should have an oval Omega ? the registered design shows a round omega and the adverts in the catalogue show a round o omega ..the latest sale in the USA also shows a round O ...just asking for advice
Thanks in anticipation
How do you know that the 2915-1 should have an oval Omega ? the registered design shows a round omega and the adverts in the catalogue show a round o omega ..the latest sale in the USA also shows a round O ...just asking for advice
Thanks in anticipation
MWO lists three dials that carry the Oval O.
The A1 dial was used on 2915-1 and -2 in 1957-8 with a carry over into 1959.
The A2 dial is correct for 2915-1 -2 and -3. In this version "OMEGA" is positioned slightly lower, beneath the AML and was in use in the same period as the A1 dial.
the A3 dial was in use 1958-1960 and is correct on 2915-2 and -3 as well as the 2998-1. The "OMEGA" text is the same as the A2 but positioned closer to the AML.
To confuse matters, the A4 dial is the first of the round "O" dials and was also in use 1959-60 with a carry over into 61. This is considered incorrect for a 2915 and was used on a 2998-1 and -2.
If the example you are considering fits in with these descriptions, you can be sure that it is correct. That said, if you have something that falls within a few months one way or the other ... I would not be at the front of the queue to call it wrong. MWO is the best, most complete, guide we have. The research that went into it is mind blowing ... but that doesn't mean it is absolutely Gospel.
Firstly thank you so much for the information much
and I have read the MWO but they show 2 Watches not sure how, many they have seen in total but I was looking for something a bit more certain as the adverts etc don’t agree with them with regards to the round O
The transfer plates for the dials were made by Charles Voser in La Chaux de Fonds and they were printed by both Stern and Singer and he would have been the artist to produce the registered design with the round O
This 1957 date is none starter because they weren’t available for sale until 1958 and the first case backs were marked 2915 not 2915 -1
And MWO talk about serial number range 15148xxx. before the generally accepted 15499xxx
So apart from theses inconsistencies I have seen very early versions with a round ‘O high ‘ so has any owner on the forum got the round O in and early version to see if we can get some confirmed