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Should I buy this UG Tri-Compax?

S
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Hi guys,

Been looking to add a vintage watch to my collection and came across the tri-compax and haven’t been interested in anything else. Spent the last few days reading all the great insights of the people in this forum and was hoping to get some help on the attached photos/description and if it’s worth it, and if not where would be a good place to find a decent one. Thank you in advance.
IMG_1538.webp IMG_1539.webp IMG_1540.webp IMG_1541.webp IMG_1542.webp IMG_1543.webp IMG_1544.webp IMG_1545.webp IMG_1546.webp IMG_1547.webp IMG_1548.webp IMG_1549.webp
 
vujen
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No because dial was reprinted, unfortunately.
You can't negotiate on this.
 
Bruce235
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Too bad, cool looking watch.
@vujen what gives it away?
I know zilch about these. Since you say it's a reprint, I see a wonky 4 in the minute subdial and the 0 in the 10 looks odd, but maybe it's supposed to?
Second marks in the subdial look a bit eradic.
 
Mark020
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Different fonts in the subdials. Tri compax print does not follow the rounding well enough. Movement is matching fwiw
 
Carlton-Browne
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I'm always very suspicious if the seller parks one of the hands on top of the A in Universal. Redialers seem to be genetically pre-disposed towards screwing up the flat A.
 
S
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Dang. Thank you guys for the input. It seems pretty difficult to find a decent example of one without a refinished dial or something else. Anyone know where to find an acceptable one at a reasonable price?
 
Bruce235
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S Slim1
Dang. Thank you guys for the input. It seems pretty difficult to find a decent example of one without a refinished dial or something else. Anyone know where to find an acceptable one at a reasonable price?
If we knew that we would likely be buying them.😁
 
Larry S
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I completely sympathize … the Tri is an amazing watch. I certainly came away obsessed when I saw my first. You will need a good watchmaker at your back that won’t bring out the cross, holy water and garlic when you bring it in to service. These are old complex watches. Parts are hard to source now. Regarding finding a good one, patience and perseverance. Reading here. Get a copy of Sala. Make sure you know what good looks like and what compromises you are willing to make. Later service dials (not redials), Service Crowns, Service moons are common. Key here is that UG must have made them but replacement parts do figure into price to varying extent. . Hands must be correct and fit for the dial. Cases must be sharp and intact. Movements clean and complete. Remember that the reference is for the case, not dial.
 
S
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Larry S Larry S
I completely sympathize … the Tri is an amazing watch. I certainly came away obsessed when I saw my first. You will need a good watchmaker at your back that won’t bring out the cross, holy water and garlic when you bring it in to service. These are old complex watches. Parts are hard to source now. Regarding finding a good one, patience and perseverance. Reading here. Get a copy of Sala. Make sure you know what good looks like and what compromises you are willing to make. Later service dials (not redials), Service Crowns, Service moons are common. Key here is that UG must have made them but replacement parts do figure into price to varying extent. . Hands must be correct and fit for the dial. Cases must be sharp and intact. Movements clean and complete. Remember that the reference is for the case, not dial.
This is very helpful. Thank you. Any major tells between a later service dial and a redial, other than what’s been shared by everyone? Also, any thoughts on UG return in 2026 and if they may help make replacement parts more prevalent?
 
Dan S
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S Slim1
Dang. Thank you guys for the input. It seems pretty difficult to find a decent example of one without a refinished dial or something else. Anyone know where to find an acceptable one at a reasonable price?
These are almost always repainted and tampered with, with various replacement parts. You are jumping in at the deep end, and it will require an enormous amount of research on your part to develop the expertise that you will need. It's too simplistic to think that you can memorize two or three "tells." You need to look at every watch you can and know everything about them, the fonts, the hands, the moon disk, the case, the sequence of movements. Everything.

It sounds like you are sensitive to price, which will make it even harder, because you will be up against every other collector competing for the few good examples. If you find a bargain, you can almost guarantee that there's something wrong with it, and it has been floating around for months or years. Even if your budget were unlimited, there is almost nobody that you can trust to be knowledgeable and honest enough as a seller.

If you want to buy a good one in a timely way, accept that you will need to pay a premium and see if you can pry one out of the hands of an experienced collector. This is best done by networking and private communications to show that you are serious, not by a generic post asking for help. Collectors aren't generally looking to sell, but if you contact them and show interest, they can be willing to talk.
Edited:
 
Mark020
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S Slim1
if they may help make replacement parts more prevalent
You can forget about that I think
 
Larry S
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S Slim1
This is very helpful. Thank you. Any major tells between a later service dial and a redial, other than what’s been shared by everyone? Also, any thoughts on UG return in 2026 and if they may help make replacement parts more prevalent?
https://omegaforums.net/threads/ug-tri-compax-dial-evolution-varience-service-dial-redial-referece-guide-read-entire-thread.48137/ Cover Image
Thread 'UG Tri-compax Dial " evolution, varience, service dial & redial referece guide " READ ENTIRE THREAD' ·
This dial looks NOS, great redial ? Let's hear what the experts think ? If it is a redial, it is one of the best I have ever seen ! With the popularity of UG and the increasing value, people...
rolokr ·
 
S
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Dan S Dan S
These are almost always repainted and tampered with, with various replacement parts. You are jumping in at the deep end, and it will require an enormous amount of research on your part to develop the expertise that you will need. It's too simplistic to think that you can memorize two or three "tells." You need to look at every watch you can and know everything about them, the fonts, the hands, the moon disk, the case, the sequence of movements. Everything.

It sounds like you are sensitive to price, which will make it even harder, because you will be up against every other collector competing for the few good examples. If you find a bargain, you can almost guarantee that there's something wrong with it, and it has been floating around for months or years. Even if your budget were unlimited, there is almost nobody that you can trust to be knowledgeable and honest enough as a seller.

If you want to buy a good one in a timely way, accept that you will need to pay a premium and see if you can pry one out of the hands of an experienced collector. This is best done by networking and private communications to show that you are serious, not by a generic post asking for help. Collectors aren't generally looking to sell, but if you contact them and show interest, they can be willing to talk.
Thank you, this is quite helpful. I’ve certainly wandered down the rabbit hole these past two weeks and have a lot more to do. With regards to price, I’m not too sensitive just don’t want to get ripped off. So it was more around what is a fair price range for a good example
 
S
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Is this a better example of a dial? Also, what is on the movement at 3 & 6 o’clock positions in the 2nd photo? Is that rust?
IMG_1550.webp IMG_1551.webp
 
Larry S
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S Slim1
Thank you, this is quite helpful. I’ve certainly wandered down the rabbit hole these past two weeks and have a lot more to do. With regards to price, I’m not too sensitive just don’t want to get ripped off. So it was more around what is a fair price range for a good example
My answer, reflecting on the responses you already have gotten is that the Breitling move has changed the game. A perfect watch is certain to be the subject of multiple bids these days. Watches with good cases, with UG produced service parts a bit more affordable and still great watches. The rest is crapola. One thing you are benefiting from here on OF is the the knowledge data base here has advanced significantly since I jumped into the deep end years ago. The work @Mark020 is doing on movement numbers, and the thread I just referenced for example. Get yourself a copy of Sala. It’s rounding error on the cost of a UG.
 
Larry S
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S Slim1
Is this a better example of a dial? Also, what is on the movement at 3 & 6 o’clock positions in the 2nd photo? Is that rust?
IMG_1550.webp IMG_1551.webp
Washed dial, possibly partially redone/touched up outer track, and the springbar pins are filed off. Movement looks terrible. Case is over polished. Need to know ref and sn, more pics. However good hands and original moon. Fonts correct for a dial with original moon.
Edited:
 
Larry S
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Read my response again.
 
S
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Larry S Larry S
Read my response again.
So getting closer on the dial, but definitely a stay away due to the movement?
 
Mark020
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S Slim1
Is this a better example of a dial? Also, what is on the movement at 3 & 6 o’clock positions in the 2nd photo? Is that rust?
IMG_1550.webp IMG_1551.webp
Also: two tone and probably replated....
 
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