Should I buy this UG Tri-Compax?

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S Slim1
Is this a better example of a dial? Also, what is on the movement at 3 & 6 o’clock positions in the 2nd photo? Is that rust?
This dial is no good, maybe not as bad as the first, but still a redial

(The hour subdial hand looks weird?)

It's also just an ugly watch IMO. Don't lose sight of attractiveness in the search for originality. It needs to be not only correct, but also beautiful !

Anyhow, as others have already said, you have to understand that assessing Tri Compax requires expertise that is not going to happen overnight. Not trying to discourage you at all, just be realistic about the time it takes. And use the forum as a resource in the meantime, but mostly what people will tell you is to start putting in the several hundred hours necessary reviewing original dials.

Good luck !
 
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This dial is no good, maybe not as bad as the first, but still a redial

(The hour subdial hand looks weird?)

It's also just an ugly watch IMO. Don't lose sight of attractiveness in the search for originality. It needs to be not only correct, but also beautiful !

Anyhow, as others have already said, you have to understand that assessing Tri Compax requires expertise that is not going to happen overnight. Not trying to discourage you at all, just be realistic about the time it takes. And use the forum as a resource in the meantime, but mostly what people will tell you is to start putting in the several hundred hours necessary reviewing original dials.

Good luck !
Thank you. I’ve got a lot of work to do, but this certainly helps me get started
 
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In terms of price, it really depends on several factors:

case size (small 33-34mm, medium 35mm, large 36-37mm)
case material (gold plate, chrome, stainless, yellow gold, rose gold, 14K, 18K)
condition and rarity (unusual dial, case, etc)

I haven't bought anything in a while, so I don't have my finger on the market, but I would guess

For 10K with some patience and working with private sales you should be able to get a really nice Tri
For 5K with some luck plus patience you might be able to get a decent/good Tri
 
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I haven't posted my 22543 in a while.....and my only advice to the OP is to start looking for the right watchmaker now and cultivate a good relationship in advance of finally presenting a TRI for service. My wm and I found that UG via Martel were constantly changing the design of their staff in the period of production for mine. The fourth staff was the one!

And.....THAT was the easy part of the service.

 
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I haven't posted my 22543 in a while.....and my only advice to the OP is to start looking for the right watchmaker now and cultivate a good relationship in advance of finally presenting a TRI for service. My wm and I found that UG via Martel were constantly changing the design of their staff in the period of production for mine. The fourth staff was the one!

And.....THAT was the easy part of the service.

That’s a beautiful watch. I guess I need to get on finding a local watchmaker as well.

I did see these will doing research the past week or so, would anyone recommend?

https://watchrepairsusa.com/brands/universal-geneve/

https://www.genevawatchrepair.com/universal-geneve-watch-service/
 
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Washed dial, possibly partially redone/touched up outer track, and the springbar pins are filed off. Movement looks terrible. Case is over polished. Need to know ref and sn, more pics. However good hands and original moon. Fonts correct for a dial with original moon.
Interesting, my initial feeling was that this was certainly refinished, just based on the look of the subdials.
 
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It has an illusion of authenticity to it. There were a lot of variations. It’s prolly refinished though. I haven’t delved further. It’s still an ugly watch.
Edited:
 
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S Slim1
So getting closer on the dial, but definitely a stay away due to the movement?
Another redial, I have to say