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Kay995
·????Where is the Daytona????
Rolex GMT master
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southtexas
·I asked about the Daytona it seems it’s getting serviced at her jewelers at the moment.
Oh hell, you should try to intervene.
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Kay995
·It's a C&I USA-made Rolex bracelet IMO. They have integrated end-links without numbers, and they don't really fit very well unless you put a lot of work into tweaking them. The clasp should be signed C&I, but the photos don't show that part of the clasp. It's the least desirable type of bracelet, but legit, and possibly original.
I see, what reference is this watch Is it a 1675?
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southtexas
·I see, what reference is this watch Is it a 1675?
Yes most likely a late 1960’s 1675. Case looks to be very nice with great, even crown guards. A clear, focused, shot of the dial would be very helpful to tell if it’s original Lume. In any case, even if a relume (and the aforementioned service parts), it still has good value and lovely eye appeal. $6k for that watch is a great price all day, every day even with a relumed dial and service insert.
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Kay995
·Yes most likely a late 1960’s 1675. Case looks to be very nice with great, even crown guards. A clear, focused, shot of the dial would be very helpful to tell if it’s original Lume. In any case, even if a relume (and the aforementioned service parts), it still has good value and lovely eye appeal. $6k for that watch is a great price all day, every day even with a relumed dial and service insert.
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Kay995
·
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Bakertime
·The Daytona looks pretty good. Are you going to pursue it?
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Kay995
·So I ended up getting that GMT master For $5500... The bracelet is really stretched and doesn’t fit is it possible to adjust them at all?she gifted me a old 18kt gold Exactus chronograph and a handmade lizard strap. Also met up with @southtexas buddie from L.A. he ended up getting a couple Watches from her too. Pretty happy with it over all got to get a nice rubber Strap or bracelet.
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Scarecrow Boat
·The bracelet is really stretched and doesn’t fit is it possible to adjust them at all?
https://www.rolliworks.com/bookings-checkout/bracelet-repair
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southtexas
·
Yes, Mike at Rolliworks does a good job and he’s reasonable. Turn around time varies but it’s always faster than Michael Young in HK.
Edit: I just looked closer. That bracelet doesn’t need to be rebuilt. It’s a rivet and they just feel very clanky. He might need to get a few links taken out, which isn’t too difficult for a competent old-school watchmaker.
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Kay995
·
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t_swiss_t
·Looks relumed, and poorly. Would find a fat font insert and get someone to relume it in a way that looks pleasing to the eye.
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Scarecrow Boat
·If you have any suggestions?
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southtexas
·Michael Young in HK might do relumes? I know they do “restorations”.
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Kay995
·Reach out to Greg, here. He’s great at color matching and you can see he posts videos of his work under “color matching.” He’s great at answering direct messages on Instagram. (This is assuming you are in the US. Greg is in the US as well).
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Dan S
·The links of the C&I bracelet could be stretched out and may need to be rebuilt and resized. Michael Hui at Rolliworks can do that for a cost.
Getting the end-links to fit a 1675 is a separate issue entirely, and takes some tweaking. I have done it successfully, but it's not something I can really explain completely in a short post. I suggest taking a really good look at the way the spring-bar fits into the integrated loop of metal that connects the last link and the end-link. If you understand the way it works, and have some fine pliers, you can make some adjustments to improve things. You may also need to open or close the end-links themselves. Make sure to carefully protect the jaws of any pliers you use, if you use pliers on the exposed parts of the end-links (I don't). Finally, if all else fails, you can use a small strip of gray gaffers tape to cover the reference/serial numbers, filling some of the gap between the end-links and case, which will make them less loose.
Overall, still a good purchase IMO. You could restore the bracelet, relume the hands, buy a good insert, and you'd still have only $9k into it. The photos don't show the necessary angles, but from what I can see, the case looks ok.
Getting the end-links to fit a 1675 is a separate issue entirely, and takes some tweaking. I have done it successfully, but it's not something I can really explain completely in a short post. I suggest taking a really good look at the way the spring-bar fits into the integrated loop of metal that connects the last link and the end-link. If you understand the way it works, and have some fine pliers, you can make some adjustments to improve things. You may also need to open or close the end-links themselves. Make sure to carefully protect the jaws of any pliers you use, if you use pliers on the exposed parts of the end-links (I don't). Finally, if all else fails, you can use a small strip of gray gaffers tape to cover the reference/serial numbers, filling some of the gap between the end-links and case, which will make them less loose.
Overall, still a good purchase IMO. You could restore the bracelet, relume the hands, buy a good insert, and you'd still have only $9k into it. The photos don't show the necessary angles, but from what I can see, the case looks ok.
Edited:
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Kay995
·The links of the C&I bracelet could be stretched out and may need to be rebuilt and resized. Michael Hui at Rolliworks can do that for a cost.
Getting the end-links to fit a 1675 is a separate issue entirely, and takes some tweaking. I have done it successfully, but it's not something I can really explain completely in a short post. I suggest taking a really good look at the way the spring-bar fits into the integrated loop of metal that connects the last link and the end-link. If you understand the way it works, and have some fine pliers, you can make some adjustments to improve things. You may also need to open or close the end-links themselves. Make sure to carefully protect the jaws of any pliers you use, if you use pliers on the exposed parts of the end-links (I don't). Finally, if all else fails, you can use a small strip of gray gaffers tape to cover the reference/serial numbers, filling some of the gap between the end-links and case, which will make them less loose.
Overall, still a good purchase IMO. You could restore the bracelet, relume the hands, buy a good insert, and you'd still have only $9k into it. The photos don't show the necessary angles, but from what I can see, the case looks ok.
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Dan S
·That insert looks extremely questionable. It's definitely not period-correct, and maybe not authentic Rolex. I think you need to do a lot more research. You should expect to spend about $2k USD for a half decent one, more for a really nice one. There's one in a no-reserve auction right now that's pretty beat up, and it's already over $1200.
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Dan S
·Did you ever tell us the serial number so we know when the watch was made? I can't find it. It's a bit hard to recommend bezel inserts if we don't know the year of the watch.
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