Replacement Dial Question - how to know if a dial will fit

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In my infinite wisdom I recently purchased a 14701-4 SC.... That's been redialed. The price was good, the photos were marginal but I should have noticed it before clicking the buy-it-now button. The watch has a cal 562 and is gold plated. I actually like the watch and instead of just selling it and recouping my money (probably make a little even disclosing it's a redial) I figured I'd dig myself a deeper hole and see if I can find a replacement dial instead. I have a local watch maker that I trust to do the switch for what I would consider a very reasonable price.

My question is, how do I know what dial will fit? Will any dial with a date window that comes off a cal 562 fit or is there a difference in foot placement? Do I need to have the dial off my watch first to ensure I know where the feet are before trying to find a replacement?

As an example (I'm not looking to purchase this specific dial, I'm more likely to put a WTB thread on the forums) would this dial fit my watch? https://www.ebay.com/itm/124874475110

s-l1600.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

I greatly appreciate the help! If I can figure out how all of this works I'll likely search for a dial for the first Omega I purchased too, it unfortunately has sentimental value now and I can't just ditch it even though it too, is a redial.
 
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First: The dial must fit on the movement.
Second: The dial must fit into the case.
Third: The new dial must match in script and font. That means you cannot use a Seamaster dial with the big rounded S like the one on ebay to replace a Seamaster with a coathanger S.
 
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Finding a proper dial that keeps the watch ‘correct’ will surely be the biggest challenge.

So a dial off a 562 should in theory fit on any 562, and if a 562 fits into the case then swapping a dial should be less complicated than I maybe first imagined? Or is there a scenario where a 562 is used on something like a dynamic (just as an example) where the dial may be shaped differently than the case of a 14071?

Again setting aside finding the dial that keeps the watch ‘correct’.
 
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So a dial off a 562 should in theory fit on any 562, and if a 562 fits into the case then swapping a dial should be less complicated than I maybe first imagined? Or is there a scenario where a 562 is used on something like a dynamic (just as an example) where the dial may be shaped differently than the case of a 14071?

No, not so simple. A dial from a 562 should fit another 562, but case dimensions vary. At the very least you should measure the diameter of your dial carefully and make sure the replacement is the same size. You could still have problems if the dials have different profiles (flat, curved, etc.).
 
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Or is there a scenario where a 562 is used on something like a dynamic (just as an example) where the dial may be shaped differently than the case of a 14071?

Absolutely. To give you an example: A 14381 and a 167.005 Constellation both have cal. 551s. The 14381 has a dial that's 27,5mm in diameter, the 167.005 takes a 29mm dial.
 
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Before I post a WTB thread I'm curious if anyone could weigh in on the dial in the photo below. I've seen a few 14701's with crosshairs but there aren't a ton of images or threads I could find with verifiable examples and the listings on ebay don't give me enough confidence. The hands have their own set of problems but one bad decision at a time 😀

Ref: 14701-4 SC
Case: Gold Plated
Caliber: 562
Dial Size: 27.5mm
Serial number: 1801****

 
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Obviously an angled photo isn’t ideal, straight on is much better for analysis, but if you’re asking if it’s a redial, I’d say not, it looks original to me.
 
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Obviously an angled photo isn’t ideal, straight on is much better for analysis, but if you’re asking if it’s a redial, I’d say not, it looks original to me.
Sorry, I should have included one. At the very least I believe the Omega logo has been reapplied as the crosshair isn't centered.

 
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At the very least I believe the Omega logo has been reapplied as the crosshair isn't centered.


That’s not unheard of on original dials. I still think original.
 
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I'll pop it out of the case again tonight to get a better photo without the damaged crystal obscuring the view. I honestly thought it looked okay in the original photos I saw when I bought it but after spending more time on it the crosshair/logo placement really made me second guess it. I figured it had to at least have had some dial work done. I'll get another photo tonight, maybe that'll tell a better story.
 
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I’m not sure what I’m seeing anymore, from a little distance it looks like the crosshair is centered but up close it looks like it’s touching. Maybe a trick of the light, I don’t know.

 
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I don't think the crosshairs were always perfect from the factory anyway.
 
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I don't think the crosshairs were always perfect from the factory anyway.
This thread has helped me learn a lot. About how to replace a dial but also...
1) I obviously still have no idea what I'm looking at when trying to buy watches, even after 4 years
2) Even if I take a chance on a watch, I should post it after I get it and not be stressed about the eventual "you totally wasted all your money" comments 😀
3) Crosshairs aren't for me, I think a Seamaster 600 w/ black dial and a crosshair that doesn't intersect lettering/logos might be okay for my OCD
 
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Another thing to remember is that some dials are curved and some are flat, some are designed for front fitting movement and some for rear fitting movement, all these can make a difference to the dial and if it will fit or not.

On the last photos you have posted it looks to me like the logo is centered but the right side is bent in