Opinions on Submariner anyone?

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Always wanted a sub, but have been too cautious, and to be honest a little tight-fisted.
Only three very limited photos I'm afraid, and the usual 'movement currently functioning' statement, but would very much appreciate any observations.
Thanks
 
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What other research have you done?
 
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Have read numerous reviews of the 16610, both this and the newer, post 2010 version, so reasonably well versed re the model. It's listed as about 2000.
What I was asking was if any experts are able, with these limited photos, to spot any obvious problems.
I'm keen, but a long trip for me to view, so trying to avoid a wasted journey.
 
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Not an expert by any means....but it looks good from what you've provided.

* If the seller is advertising it as a model year 2000, I assume it's a K or Y serial? Or I suppose it could be late in the A-serial production run and have 2000 inscribed on the papers?. In which case, the 'T Swiss Made T' dial is correct for a late A-serial and subsequent years/serials (i.e K, Y, etc)
* Holes case is correct for pre-2003.
* Solid endlinks are correct for K serial (year 2000) and later.

Is the seller an individual or a dealer?

If it's a dealer you should push for a timegrapher reading at 52 degrees of lift angle and make sure that the read out has a full line's worth of values for the sec/day readout on the screen. In other words don't let them put the watch on the timegrapher and only have the line half way across the timegrapher screen which shows that they haven't let the watch sit on there for a few seconds to "settle in" and give a better indication of the accuracy and amplitude.
It sounds like this is a local sale? I would ask the Seller if they are comfortable with you/them bringing some pushers to remove the bracelet endlink on the 6:00 side to confirm the serial number is intact. If it's been tampered with, you won't be able to get it serviced by Rolex in the future and you'll have a hard time reselling it if/when the time comes.

Is the bracelet fully linked? Does it still have the diver's extension under the clasp?

Dug Dug
Have read numerous reviews of the 16610, both this and the newer, post 2010 version, so reasonably well versed re the model. It's listed as about 2000.
What I was asking was if any experts are able, with these limited photos, to spot any obvious problems.
 
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169
Not an expert by any means....but it looks good from what you've provided.

* If the seller is advertising it as a model year 2000, I assume it's a K or Y serial? Or I suppose it could be late in the A-serial production run and have 2000 inscribed on the papers?. In which case, the 'T Swiss Made T' dial is correct for a late A-serial and subsequent years/serials (i.e K, Y, etc)
* Holes case is correct for pre-2003.
* Solid endlinks are correct for K serial (year 2000) and later.

Is the seller an individual or a dealer?

If it's a dealer you should push for a timegrapher reading at 52 degrees of lift angle and make sure that the read out has a full line's worth of values for the sec/day readout on the screen. In other words don't let them put the watch on the timegrapher and only have the line half way across the timegrapher screen which shows that they haven't let the watch sit on there for a few seconds to "settle in" and give a better indication of the accuracy and amplitude.
It sounds like this is a local sale? I would ask the Seller if they are comfortable with you/them bringing some pushers to remove the bracelet endlink on the 6:00 side to confirm the serial number is intact. If it's been tampered with, you won't be able to get it serviced by Rolex in the future and you'll have a hard time reselling it if/when the time comes.

Is the bracelet fully linked? Does it still have the diver's extension under the clasp?

Many thanks for taking the time to give this comprehensive advice....all gratefully taken on board!
It's a physical auction listing, and the description would seem to indicate that the movement has not been examined, nor the bracelet removed. Not being critical of the auction house.....I guess it is dependent on the facilities and expertise they have available.
I have decided to undergo the trip see the watch. I guess even if it is a no-go, I an bound to learn from the experience of examining the model 'in the flesh'. Every day's a school day!
Thanks again.
 
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Dear mr go on 14060m ,rehault ,new cal 3130,4 liner up to 2012 last real rolex.

Not quite with you, but am guessing that you are recommending the 14060M in preference to the 16610?
 
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It seeing any obvious problems at first glance. Seems to be a mediocre example, but legit.
 
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Mediocre....because of the general condition?
Picking up @bassem's point, most discussions/opinions on the 14060M vs 16610 seem to centre around the cyclops and bracelet.
Would appreciate hearing your opinion, perhaps from a technical as opposed to aesthetic angle?
Whatever I finish up with it's going to be a daily and forever.
 
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Dug Dug
Not quite with you, but am guessing that you are recommending the 14060M in preference to the 16610?
Dear Mr I have several Sub and for me no date is only real basic Sub to wear it in good health ,good luck with 16610 also count of mainteteing cost,service parts aviability and other .
 
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It’s genuine and the case seems to have seen minimal polishing but does appear to have significant wear.
Personally I don’t like the solid endlink bracelets, they look clumsy. I prefer the 90’s folded Endlinks, ideally with a tritium dial for a bit of character.

Edit, it’s really hard to be sure from those pics, but although the clasp seems relatively unpolished it actually looks like the case has seen a buffing wheel.
Edited:
 
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Dug Dug
Mediocre....because of the general condition?
Picking up @bassem's point, most discussions/opinions on the 14060M vs 16610 seem to centre around the cyclops and bracelet.
Would appreciate hearing your opinion, perhaps from a technical as opposed to aesthetic angle?
Whatever I finish up with it's going to be a daily and forever.
The case isn't so great, IMO, I'm seeing very polished crown guards and some lug hole cratering. I've seen a lot worse, but that's why I said mediocre. Also, I think you need to get a better look at the dial. It could just be bad photos, but the lume plots may be discolored.
 
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it would have to be an amazing price to even seriously consider this, and im talking like below $6k. I agree with the commenters' assessment. Patience and you will certainly find a better example. Take some time to study a mintier piece or even pictures to get a better idea of the actual lines of the case and crown guards. three lazy pictures is hardly a good way to make a sale. Id pass
 
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Dear mr go on 14060m ,rehault ,new cal 3130,4 liner up to 2012 last real rolex.
People actually like the engraved rehault? To me it is a bit taller than the non engraved version so it makes the watch look chunkier.
 
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People actually like the engraved rehault? To me it is a bit taller than the non engraved version so it makes the watch look chunkier.

Stick with your original plan, @Dug . The last real Sub has holes and no dumb engraved rehaut. At the very least. Later references are nice watches but do nothing for me.
.
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Stick with your original plan, @Dug . The last real Sub has holes and no dumb engraved rehaut. At the very least. Later references are nice watches but do nothing for me.
.

Agree. Holes case, folded endlinks, no engraved rehaut and ideally a tritium dial is the sweet spot for 5 digit imo.
Because of that I prefer the 16610 to the 14060 as I wanted the the 31xx movement rather than 30xx, and it’s not possible to get a 14060m with tritium as I believe tritium was phased out in 98 but the M wasn’t released until 99
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Hole case, five digit and rehault and cal 3130 only one man need have it.
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Hole case, five digit and rehault (((and cal 3130))) only one man need have it.

Other mothers also have beautiful daughters. My green Tritium from 1995 😉

 
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it would have to be an amazing price to even seriously consider this, and im talking like below $6k. I agree with the commenters' assessment. Patience and you will certainly find a better example. Take some time to study a mintier piece or even pictures to get a better idea of the actual lines of the case and crown guards. three lazy pictures is hardly a good way to make a sale. Id pass

I believe this auction is in the UK and no publicly sold Submariner is selling here for less than $6k (£4700).
The only sub £6k ($7500) 14060/16610 I’ve seen was £5600 and it had some major condition issues and missing parts.
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