The watch has no clear identity. It’s a lazy and inconsistent mix of vintage Connies design cues and modern elements unfitted to the character of the piece. The Constellation star mixed with that awful “Au” printing, dog-leg lugs but no decagonal crown… it all feels arbitrary and designed by committee. It’s only external appeal (the revival) gets tarnished by the incorporation of these unbefitting departures from the original.
Even taken on its own terms, without considering any design heritage, it’s a poorly executed watch in terms of dimensions -something everyone seems to have noticed instantly, except perhaps our dear friends at Fratello. No redesign of the movement means intolerable dimensions for a dress watch: it is thicker (12.23 vs 11.70) than the 300m Hydroconquest released the same day by Longines; it’s has almost the same lug-to-lug as the Speedmaster (47.50 vs 47.20).
Its other supposed selling point, accuracy, has been rendered useless by its own design and the lack of seconds hand -another unfortunate departure from the original. As others have mentioned, what’s exactly the point of a highly precise movement in a watch that can only be set imprecisely?
Finally, the price is simply outrageous. There are many possible comparisons that one could make at this range, but I think one is enough: the Canopus gold version (EUR 43.4k) is nearly 10k more expensive than the 6119R Calatrava (EUR 34.2k), which of course offers far better finishing, character and proportions.
This is specially disheartening when comparing to what other competitors have been doing. Rolex, for example, released the 1908 a few years ago: no faux revival narrative, just an attractive original design, excellent dimensions, a very good bracelet (although that came only last year), as well as an above average movement. That watch is more than EUR 20k cheaper than what Omega presented yesterday (EUR 58k vs EUR 36k in yellow gold with gold bracelet)