Need help on a 145.022. Any red flags on this Speedy?

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Need to see inside for SN and inside caseback ref no. Its probably 74, 76 or 78 without step dial. Agree its fair, and price for fair in those ref more like 2000. Not very attractive watch IMO I wouldnt rush into this one.
Thanks for the advice. You always want to find the dirty gem and make it shine again. The hunt seems to get in the way sometimes
 
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I think days the days of $2k beater speedy pro’s are past us without really being connected or lucky- particularly running with a tritium dial regardless if how unattractive.

OP needs to math this one for a reality check:

If you can get it for $2.5-2.8k, love the way it looks as-is, wear it occasionally until it stops and be happy with that- then it would be a good score.

But, if you have rose colored glasses and think you can “restore” it then think about the $800 service (provided no major parts are needed), either reluming or replacing the dial ($2-400) replacement DNN bezel ($500) and we don’t know what the condition of the case is at all.

So- this one for around $3k that’s cosmetically compromised and a project (unless you love it) or another of the same era in better shape for $4-5k, possibly with a recent service. Just comes down to if you want a turnkey or a project.
 
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I think days the days of $2k beater speedy pro’s are past us without really being connected or lucky- particularly running with a tritium dial regardless if how unattractive.

OP needs to math this one for a reality check:

If you can get it for $2.5-2.8k, love the way it looks as-is, wear it occasionally until it stops and be happy with that- then it would be a good score.

But, if you have rose colored glasses and think you can “restore” it then think about the $800 service (provided no major parts are needed), either reluming or replacing the dial ($2-400) replacement DNN bezel ($500) and we don’t know what the condition of the case is at all.

So- this one for around $3k that’s cosmetically compromised and a project (unless you love it) or another of the same era in better shape for $4-5k, possibly with a recent service. Just comes down to if you want a turnkey or a project.
Great breakdown honestly but the asking prices are all over the place and the 101 price range is collector to collector if I’m not mistaken. How does one get to enjoy the good range when it says $4000 and it’s listed at $6500. I just figured a project might scratch the itch 🤣
 
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Great breakdown honestly but the asking prices are all over the place and the 101 price range is collector to collector if I’m not mistaken. How does one get to enjoy the good range when it says $4000 and it’s listed at $6500. I just figured a project might scratch the itch 🤣
There are a fair number of Speedys FS on the Private Sales thread- if you take your time and find a nice one for a bit more money, you wont think of what you spent if you are looking at a nice watch. Patience!
 
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There are a fair number of Speedys FS on the Private Sales thread- if you take your time and find a nice one for a bit more money, you wont think of what you spent if you are looking at a nice watch. Patience!

Agreed- we all dream of the diamond in the rough- looked horrible but we knew better. Got it for a steal while everyone turned their nose up. Scrubbed it in the sink with a toothbrush, a little polywatch and voila! - a stunning gem that runs perfectly and gleams like a new penny….but that is usually very far from reality.

Most of the people who have been at this a while have a deep stash of parts, skills to do much of the work themselves (if not all but the full movement service) and the fortitude to take a gamble and lose- but parlay that loss into another project.
Most importantly they know how to identity when it’s worth it and when it’s not.

If you see the watch in the metal tomorrow, it speaks to you and the seller is willing to negotiate (cash is king, have a wad with $2k in one pocket and the other $1k in another pocket so you aren’t removing money from the pot but adding) then enjoy your prize and think about next steps after enjoying it for a few weeks. But if you are already thinking of the “project”, then it may end up being more than care to deal with.
 
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Agreed- we all dream of the diamond in the rough- looked horrible but we knew better. Got it for a steal while everyone turned their nose up. Scrubbed it in the sink with a toothbrush, a little polywatch and voila! - a stunning gem that runs perfectly and gleams like a new penny….but that is usually very far from reality.

Most of the people who have been at this a while have a deep stash of parts, skills to do much of the work themselves (if not all but the full movement service) and the fortitude to take a gamble and lose- but parlay that loss into another project.
Most importantly they know how to identity when it’s worth it and when it’s not.

If you see the watch in the metal tomorrow, it speaks to you and the seller is willing to negotiate (cash is king, have a wad with $2k in one pocket and the other $1k in another pocket so you aren’t removing money from the pot but adding) then enjoy your prize and think about next steps after enjoying it for a few weeks. But if you are already thinking of the “project”, then it may end up being more than care to deal with.
That sounds very rational………..how long before you became so zen? Just a little warm water and the soft bristles of my used toothbrush and this could be………………… but seriously this is good advice that I will hopefully adhere to in the moment of truth tomorrow😔
 
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I can’t see a step dial there so doubt it’s a -71.

This watch isn’t hugely attractive imo and would be perhaps fair+ on the price chart (although we can’t see or assess the case from those pics).

If you’re on a tight budget and just want a cheap vintage Speedy, $3k isn’t bad at all for this and could make a great beater.
However, I strongly agree with @JwRosenthal - don’t be buying this with the idea of spending significant sums trying to restore it. You’d be better simply buying a better one to start with.
 
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If you do decide to get it- resist the impulse to dunk it in the sink to de-cheese it before you gleefully post your “look what I got” pics- it probably won’t go as planned (no clue what condition the seals are in).

Bracelet in a dish of dawn for a bit while you damp napkin with tooth pics and your fingernails to clean the crevices (don’t go at the bezel too hard, that paint is looking a little iffy). Naptha (lighter fluid) for any pesky funk- fast drying and will remove sticky shit. Dental floss (tie a single loop and Run it back and forth) around the pushers and crown with a little Naptha and wipe off the floss regularly- I’m getting nauseas thinking about it already.

Pro tip- if want to give the crystal a buf - put 2” blue painters tape over the top of the watch, score around the crystal edge with your finger nail (or tooth pic) right at the base where it meets the bezel and peel off the center round- now you can go to town without accidentally buffing your brushed finishes or bezel. And if you aren’t going to wet sand and are out of polywatch, toothpaste and a cotton ball works a charm.

Then toothbrush and bracelet in the soapy water (more nausea) and be mindful to pull the spring bars and endlinks off prior so they don’t go down the disposal (ask me how I know).

Best of luck.
Edited:
 
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Curious to hear your impressions after seeing the watch in real life. It's definitely not a -71 with a step dial... I do like the bezel and dial font from the late 70s/early 80s though, step dial or not.

There is a similar watch for sale in the private sales section right now that you can use as a point of comparison.
 
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Curious to hear your impressions after seeing the watch in real life. It's definitely not a -71 with a step dial... I do like the bezel and dial font from the late 70s/early 80s though, step dial or not.

There is a similar watch for sale in the private sales section right now that you can use as a point of comparison.
I am curious to see what it really is after opening it up. I honestly want a decent everyday watch that is vintage and thought this might fit the bill for the money. I wear the titanium sword hand peter blake era smp while working as a firefighter and never concern myself with new scratches or dings. This might be a watch I will enjoy wearing without a care like my seamaster.
 
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I am curious to see what it really is after opening it up. I honestly want a decent everyday watch that is vintage and thought this might fit the bill for the money. I wear the titanium sword hand peter blake era smp while working as a firefighter and never concern myself with new scratches or dings. This might be a watch I will enjoy wearing without a care like my seamaster.
You're on the right track. These 145.022s from the 80s and the 3590.50s are amazing watches for the money. But as others have said, no reason not to wait for a very good example, there are plenty out there.
 
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I am curious to see what it really is after opening it up. I honestly want a decent everyday watch that is vintage and thought this might fit the bill for the money. I wear the titanium sword hand peter blake era smp while working as a firefighter and never concern myself with new scratches or dings. This might be a watch I will enjoy wearing without a care like my seamaster.

Fire fighting is fine- just don’t wear it in the pool or while mowing the lawn.
 
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Fire fighting is fine- just don’t wear it in the pool or while mowing the lawn.

Fire fighting is fine- just don’t wear it in the pool or while mowing the lawn.
Wear it every shift without worries and because it’s not shiny no one even notices that it’s a decent watch. I even mowed the lawn once or twice!!

 
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I wear the titanium sword hand peter blake era smp while working as a firefighter and never concern myself with new scratches or dings. This might be a watch I will enjoy wearing without a care like my seamaster.
I understand this, and I have a vintage Sub that I use with the same philosophy. However, it has a great dial and a beat-up case with a few scratches on the bezel insert. Ugly dials don't give me any joy, they just annoy me more and more as I look at them.

 
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I understand this, and I have a vintage Sub that I use with the same philosophy. However, it has a great dial and a beat-up case with a few scratches on the bezel insert. Ugly dials don't give me any joy, they just annoy me more and more as I look at them.

It’s because of you Dan, that I have become paranoid about the pip in my 14060. I wear it regularly and don’t care about wear and tear (I admit to taking it off when I was trying to work between blocks of rough stone and felt the initial scrape on the clasp) but I find myself checking to see if the pip is still there when it takes a whack or I’m doing rough work.

I used to not care about my 16750 as it was just an “old watch” when I got it but admit I have worn it less and less for any hard labor as I watched the values climb over the last decade. Funny how that happens.
 
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Just tag me in on the -70’s

This presents as a -74 or -76 model made through Sept 77. There is a chance it’s earlier with a replacement dial put in from 1974 through 77. Need to see the case back but with that bezel the odds are low the dial was replaced in that time period.

Dial lume is not attractive and hurts value.


1171 bracelet unable to verify if original or the one currently available from Omega.
 
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This is the same watch based on the dial variant. This is the best condition lume color and presentation for this dial. Some go mossy(black) or brown but brown tends to get flakey.

Modern 1171-633 bracelet. 145.022-76 model with early 1977 production.
 
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It’s because of you Dan, that I have become paranoid about the pip in my 14060. I wear it regularly and don’t care about wear and tear (I admit to taking it off when I was trying to work between blocks of rough stone and felt the initial scrape on the clasp) but I find myself checking to see if the pip is still there when it takes a whack or I’m doing rough work.

I used to not care about my 16750 as it was just an “old watch” when I got it but admit I have worn it less and less for any hard labor as I watched the values climb over the last decade. Funny how that happens.
That's an old photo, I have a period-correct pip in there now. I buy them whenever I see them.

 
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That's an old photo, I have a period-correct pip in there now. I buy them whenever I see them.

Amazing how much of a difference that makes. Like a missing incisor.
 
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This is the same watch based on the dial variant. This is the best condition lume color and presentation for this dial. Some go mossy(black) or brown but brown tends to get flakey.

Modern 1171-633 bracelet. 145.022-76 model with early 1977 production.
You are spot on with your assessment my friend……..145.022-74ST