Forums Latest Members

Need advice to adjust bracelet

  1. Deafboy His Holiness Puer Surdus Nov 2, 2020

    Posts
    2,178
    Likes
    6,142
    I have a vintage Hamilton watch that came with a Duchess bracelet (1940's - '50's ?) with a basketweave mesh. It's a bit too long but I'm not sure how to shorten it as all the links seem to be "riveted".

    Any tips?


    IMG_2518.jpg

    IMG_2517.jpg
     
    purplecat likes this.
  2. Pazzo Nov 2, 2020

    Posts
    782
    Likes
    1,150
    Normally you would need a pin extractor tool to be able to pull out those domed pins.
    https://www.uhrmacherwerkzeuge.com/augusta-pliers-for-watch-strap-shorten-pin-extractor-125mm
    Managing to pull out one, you end up with a long pin and its shorter part.
    You then can calculate by how much you need to shorten the band and preferably mark it.
    Pull out the second domed pin. Check if the length you ended up with is okay on your wrist and if so, you then need to insert the longer part of the pin through the links and hammer in the shorter part.
    If you do not have this pin extractor tool, an end cutter should do the trick. Just don't press hard as you'll cut through it.

    It's a five minute job at the watchmakers if this ^ ^ ^ sounds complicated. ... :)
     
    Edited Nov 2, 2020
    Deafboy and Dan S like this.
  3. Deafboy His Holiness Puer Surdus Nov 2, 2020

    Posts
    2,178
    Likes
    6,142
    Thank you for the advice. I didn't realize the domed pins are press-fitted to each other. I'll try it and report back.
     
    Pazzo likes this.
  4. purplecat Dec 28, 2020

    Posts
    90
    Likes
    207
    I just ordered one of these bracelets and had posted the same question recently :rolleyes: Did you manage to shorten it yourself? Any updates?
     
  5. Deafboy His Holiness Puer Surdus Dec 28, 2020

    Posts
    2,178
    Likes
    6,142
    Some news.
    An ebay seller of similar bracelets was kind to send me information on adjusting the length. Have a look at the instructions: a.jpg b.jpg

    Except that it did not work with my bracelet because the end link is different. Also, the "press fit" ends actually appear to be quite permanent so I couldn't take a pin apart as @Pazzo suggested. In the end I had to destroy a pins to shorten the bracelet. One still need a pin to reattach the bracelet together. I had some on hand like the ones shown below to try it out. It works but not right aesthetically so I need to order a better looking pin so I need to order from a supplier (e.g. Esslinger).

    [​IMG]
     
    purplecat likes this.
  6. purplecat Dec 28, 2020

    Posts
    90
    Likes
    207
    Thanks for sharing! Seems I might end up with the same fate. I wonder if the original pin cap can be soldered back on by a jeweler? I'd appreciate if you could update us again if you end up finding a supplier for the correct pins :) *Esslinger's don't seem to match aesthetically
     
  7. Pazzo Dec 28, 2020

    Posts
    782
    Likes
    1,150
    There's a link for a "special" type of pliers in my post above.
    These pliers make the job done quite easily.
     
    purplecat and Deafboy like this.
  8. Deafboy His Holiness Puer Surdus Mar 20, 2022

    Posts
    2,178
    Likes
    6,142
    I grounded the end of the screw-shaped head of a replacement pin so it resembles the ones on the bracelet. I think it looks good. The pin has a smaller diameter (1.2 mm) than the original pin (1.5 mm) so the bracelet will look a little loose at that link. I might purchase a larger diameter pin from Esslinger and modify those.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. sleepyastronaut Mar 21, 2022

    Posts
    963
    Likes
    1,228

    I just combined two of this style here: https://omegaforums.net/threads/sizing-1940s-gold-filled-kreisler-basketweave-bracelet.141794/

    Pins in my Kreisler were closer to 1.4mm. I tried 1.5mm t-bars but they were too wide.

    I used a single 999.020.18 pin, cut to length (~12.5mm):

    https://www.jewelerssupplies.com/wa...fold-clasps-1-20mm-individual-999.020.18.html

    I used the insert from a 906.037.01 to assist in cutting:
    https://www.jewelerssupplies.com/t-bars-906.037.01.html

    The one replacement pin is in the middle of the 12 side of the bracelet, size and shape of the head are very good IMHO:
    [​IMG]

    Let me know if I can provide any additional info, or if you need any parts. I have more of the pins above, a section of basketweave in rose gold plate, and a fold-over (non-deployant) clasp.
     
    PXL_20220322_043919928.jpg
    Edited Mar 21, 2022
    Deafboy likes this.