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Need advice on authenticity of a Seamaster 166.010, cal. 565

Lotus_Eater8815
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ChrisN ChrisN
The 565 quick sets by pumping the crown from position 2 (time set) to position 3. Your watch probably has a 562 - the same as the 166010 I sold here. It (semi) quick sets by cycling between 9pm and midnight as the seller says. There is a link in my sales listing to the service document I made for that watch and you can compare the movements. Your one is desperately in need of a service but, it might come up okay. I think those are jewels that your seeing next to the "24 jewels" writing - they are just very, very dirty.

If the BOR is in good condition, $600 doesn't seem too unreasonable (a bit high but the BOR could be worth $150 on its own) although, expect to add at least half that for a service/parts. Depends on the dial really as if it is spotted badly then I'd steer clear. The problem is these sort of watches with dirty/neglected movements can be real money pits so, you're taking a big chance...

Cheers, Chris
Wow thanks for the resource, I will check that out!
 
Lotus_Eater8815
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Passover Passover
I have an incoming crosshair like the one in the thread but I took a gamble on it - hope it turns out to be a good one...
I am sure it will turn out okay. Please post pics when you get it. As added “inspiration” 😁
 
Shabbaz
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I would save a bit longer and wait for a better one.
 
Passover
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Some thoughts on the BOR of the OPs watch:

I think a full length 5 row BOR has 22 elements (without end links)

9 elements are south at 6 (2 with holes)

13 elements are north at 12 (3 with holes)

When buying a watch with a BOR make shure that full length is displayed in pictures. You should have at least 20 left!

On the OPs watch the short side of the BOR only has 6 links (instead of 9), none of them has a small hole.

The north side isn't displayed at all in full length.

So it could be that the bracelet is too short,

I think it has been messed with at the short side in a way




upload_2019-5-2_20-25-18.png
 
ChrisN
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Good point. I have a BOR on at the moment and it's 8 & 12 - pretty sure I have two spare links in the parts box so, the one on the OPs watch does appear short and without any holes for the removable link as shown on the short side.

Definitely need better photos of the BOR as well - vintage watches are a minefield!

Cheers, Chris
 
Shabbaz
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OP imo should pass on this one. After he's done with this one he's in it for at least $ 900. Not a good idea... Especially with a mediocre dial...
 
Lotus_Eater8815
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Hey guys, sorry for the late reply. Was out of town with sketchy signal.

The seller says there are 18 links on the BoR, 7 down, 11 up. It is fine for my small wrists but, with the dial being in the condition it is in, i think it would be better for me to wait (and pay) a little more for a better specimen.

Thanks for all the help guys, especially the input on the BoR. Very much appreciated. I am glad to be here 😀
 
Lotus_Eater8815
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Hi, all. I thought i’d post an update on this. Finally got my hands on a 60s Seamaster, and it is not the 166.010 cal. 562/565, but the chronometer 168.024 cal. 564.

I’ve been observing it for a little over a week and it is consistently running +/-2 a day after a full overhaul. Date quicksets by pulling the crown to the 3rd position. No bubbling on the dial (unlike the one in the original post). There appears to be a little smudging on the far border of the framed date window but I don’t mind it too much. The watch came with a beat up signed crystal with cyclops but my guy had it replaced with another signed crystal. Would’ve preferred one with the cyclops, but eh. The edges look sharp and the case is unpolished: it has a vertical brushed finish on the sides (I’ve read from another post here that these were original?) The inner caseback is imperfect but looks correct.

And, of course, the BoR: 7 down, 10 up, with 3 links sitting in the (AM) box. With my 6.5 wrists, I really don’t mind just having 20 links. Unless the last links attached to the clasp are counted, then this watch has 22 links. 1036 clasp, No. 12, #511 endlinks.

Conclusion: I am happy that I took OF members’ advice to wait and pay a bit more for a better example. It was a hard wait, but everyone’s advice was gold and I think this was worth it.

Thanks a lot, guys and OF! 😀

I was thinking about a Reduced or a Speedy Mk. 40 for my next Omega.
 
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Lotus_Eater8815
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Thanks. The difference came to almost $300 but that included shipping, a new crystal, and a complete overhaul. And it’s the chronometer version, too.

Then there is the intangible stuff, like building a relationship with someone who has a good watchmaker, who can give me good leads on future buys, and who can source original parts for me. 😀
 
JwRosenthal
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You are a perfect example of the perfect newbie. You listened, you leaned, you waited, and you bought the best. Welcome and congrats on not paying the newbie tax that so many of us have.
You just bought one of my list pieces....you know the list....I’m sure you already started one.
 
Lotus_Eater8815
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JwRosenthal JwRosenthal
You are a perfect example of the perfect newbie. You listened, you leaned, you waited, and you bought the best. Welcome and congrats on not paying the newbie tax that so many of us have.
You just bought one of my list pieces....you know the list....I’m sure you already started one.
Thank you. I consider that high praise. Yes, the list. Speedy Reduced or Mk. 40, then a Pie Pan Connie, then a Seamaster 166.024, then...

By the way, I think my taxes went to Seiko!
 
JwRosenthal
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That’s a good list and many threads on here about all the above. And the classified’s here are a safe hunting ground so make surfing them part of your morning coffee ritual.
 
snunez
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Agreed. I've got a couple of that reference, and yours is an especially nice example. Just make sure you are careful around water. A couple of mine failed the water test.
 
Lotus_Eater8815
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snunez snunez
Agreed. I've got a couple of that reference, and yours is an especially nice example. Just make sure you are careful around water. A couple of mine failed the water test.
Thanks. I always make it a habit to take off my watch if I’m doing something that involves water on the hands. Just to be safe, though, will a few specks, say from a light drizzle, lawn sprinkler, or even sweaty wrists compromise the watch?
 
snunez
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Well, for me, it has not been a problem. However I was warned by the watch maker (serviceman) to avoid all water. Perhaps that was just a CYA statement on his part, but it did put me off a bit on getting near water. Hand washing is especially problematic.
 
Lotus_Eater8815
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snunez snunez
Hand washing is especially problematic.
Where the real problem is actually forgetting to put the watch back on. Had that happen to a friend. It was his Seiko 5 beater but he loved that thing to bits.
 
JwRosenthal
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If the rear seal and crown seal are fresh, there is no reason these couldn’t take a splash or even a quick dunk in the sink, they were designed for it.
Earlier watches with the press-on backs are the ones with which you need to be careful around water

I don’t believe your crown is original (which is no big deal), but if it’s a factory service crown you may have a fresh(ish) gasket in it (gaskets are not replaceable, whole crown has to be replaced).
If you really want to be sure, have a watchmaker do a pressure test- that will tell you for sure.
Of course, don’t go swimming with it.
 
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