Learn How To Fish - A Guide - Not For Enquiries

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As a newbie, this was very informative, so thank you. I started to look at eBay for my first vintage watch, but everything I see looks sketchy. Now I have turned to estate sales, but that seems to be hit and miss. Any recommendations on where to buy authentic vintage watches?
I’m only a little further down this road.
Ideally, buy from someone you know who’ll let you try it on, give you a receipt and a guarantee, information about the watch, a sight of or photos of the movement.
Second option would be to buy from a store or dealer, with the above.
Third option (IMO) is to go on a reputable website which gives some financial guarantees. Check that the watch is advertised as 'running well', ‘accurate’, ‘good condition’ (this list is not exhaustive) so that you can return it if faulty or inaccurately described. I’m not keen on 'no returns'.
For the last reason, I prefer to buy from/bid for in the UK, where I live and on the premise that if it goes wrong and the website can’t or won’t help, I can think about turning up and returning it personally.
I also prefer to buy when I have seen a photo of the movement although at the price levels I’ve set myself, this isn’t a deal breaker.
Above all, I only buy to wear so I always ask myself, will I wear it?
I hope this helps.
 
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Probably one of the more significant buying tools I have read since i started collecting (just wish i had seen this before I had bought close to a hundred watches). I do know that re-dialing and/or polishing is a no-no, and I am conscious of those factors when I pull the trigger on a piece. One question on re-dialing: I have watched the process done on a youtube video at a very high level in a factory, and wonder if having the original maker redial you watch is an exception. And, is this a service Omega offers?

So I would have to say that I very much liked that post

I rarely visit this thread, so sorry to those who've asked me about something here and are waiting for my answer 😬

Omega does do redials, but they won't do them themselves. Remember that watches were assembled by Omega, but dials, hands, cases and sometimes movements as well (chronographs) came from other factories, few of them what we'd call "inhouse" today - this approach to specialised production facilities was what made the Swiss watch industry become the worlds leading.

This means that Omega has had no control over their subcontractors and they therefore don't have any "correct" dies/templates to produce a dial from, as the originals would have been thrown out years ago. Any redials offered by Omega as a part of a service will be a third party job. Service dials for some watches exist while NOS dials are pretty much unheard of. Old stock would have been cleared out years ago.
 
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If you see a watch on eBay that might be what you’re looking for, and at a price within your budget, my practice is to spend a little bit of time looking at the strap, particularly if it’s leather (which is my preferred choice).

In my limited experience, the 'professional' eBay seller often puts on a new strap, and frequently adds a faux (Omega) buckle. This, I’ve assumed, is intended to entice the prospective purchaser to look to buy a ready to wear nice looking watch, with a nice strap and buckle and, possibly pay a little less attention to the watch face, case, movement and hands.

Apart from the fact that I like to choose my own strap, nearly all my 'finds', and I only venture into the sub-£400 market on eBay, have come with used (in some cases very worn) old straps.

In fact, the older and more disreputable the strap, I’ve surmised that it’s more likely that the watch hasn’t been the subject of the doubtful cosmetic practices that we read about and may well have been in someone’s sock drawer for the last twenty years.

In both the attached photos (attached to the seller’s particulars) the watches were significantly better than the straps.

 
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Just a further two cents worth after reading many threads in which new collectors seeking guidance are sometimes advised to look at the 'Private Sales' section of this Forum.

All well and good but It’s not entirely straightforward, even there. Posters/sellers on OF always give good descriptions and excellent photos, particularly of the face, case and movement. You can probably rule out the risk of frankenwatches, redials (unless stated) or worse.

As a lower end (financially) collector with a liking for 50s & 60s watches I’ve never spent a great deal but even buying here, adopt the same mindset as you might when you buy on eBay or elsewhere.

In recent years, I’ve bought twice. The first was a 65 year old bumper. It looked as good when I got it as it had in the photos, it ran well and was just what I’d hoped it would be. I had it serviced and cleaned and my repairer confirmed everything that the seller had asserted. It is still running well and I remain a very satisfied customer.

The second purchase was comparatively inexpensive. The seller advertised that the watch hadn’t been serviced recently and that a hand had been changed. He sent the original removed hand with the watch.

It ran beautifully initially but then stopped. My watch repairer advised on parts that were need for this 63 year old timepiece. I sourced original spares from Finland, Poland and Holland. My repairer repaired, restored and serviced it and it now runs perfectly.

I have absolutely no criticism of the seller and I’m certainly not complaining. It is just what can happen when one buys an old watch either on OF or elsewhere. But I spent more on the parts and servicing than I spent on the original purchase. The upside is that I found the parts and that the watch could be, and was, repaired.
 
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I’ve posted about straps previously. Recently I saw this stainless steel/gold indices and hands Seamaster 165.003 as a BIN or offer on eBay. I like this version but wasn’t entirely sure it was genuine. I posted the seller’s poor photos on OF seeking reassurance, which I didn’t get.

So, entirely down to me. Two things persuaded me to take a chance. First, the seller also lives in the UK and offered a 14 day return. Second, one of the photos showed the face of what I hoped was an original strap buckle.



So, I made an offer and was right about both the watch and the buckle but, if I hadn’t been, I could have returned it.

Hope this helps.

Edited:
 
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Thank you for this,
I still don’t trust myself buying vintage, I just don’t know enough

Have a long look in the depths of the Vintage Omega Watches subforum and read those threads that concern the models you really like and get a feeling of what to look for in the specific references. Some information may be a bit dated, but the groundworks are there 😀
 
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Apologies if this was already covered and I missed it, but does anyone have some good advice and picture examples for what to look for (and look out for) when looking at the movement of the watch? I've been looking at a few vintage Seamasters but finding it difficult to determine if the internal movements are in good enough quality based on putting, scratches, discoloration, etc. Also, is the "amount" of service dates scratched into the case back a good way to judge the condition of the movement, or can that be misleading?

Some watchmakers mark and some don’t and there’s no way of telling. The best practice is to ask the seller and if he says it has been ask who by and for proof by receipt. Some sellers just get their nephews (😉) to waft a can of WD40 near the watch, polish the case and fit a new cheap strap.

If the answer is no, perfectly proper to ask for an additional discount. Be suspicious of ‘no returns’.

And finally …. AFTER you’ve done your own due diligence and think the watch and the price might be okay, but BEFORE you buy post here on OF, with good photos, your assessment and details of the price and some or all of OF will chip in to with views.

Also, as posted earlier, check out the OF Private Sales thread. Good luck.
 
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As stated earlier, a service by a reliable watchmaker if your choice is the best way for you to be sure that the movement has been checked and properly looked after ; he'll tell you exactly what he has found and done. Same when I buy a vintage Harley : my mechanics will systematically change all the engine fluids, the fork oil, and will do a 100% check of the whole bike as this is also safety related.
Back to a watch movement, I personnally avoid the movements whose holding screws are scratched, as it may indicate that the watch hasn't been properly looked after. But then it's down to whether you are hunting the lower or the higher end of the value range of a specific model.
 
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Hi there! I just wanted to share a resource I have been putting together for months, collecting and categorizing pictures of original dials discussed/spotted online
This is a non-commercial public effort, so just pasting the link here in case it is helpful to someone https://www.vintagedial.com/
It is hard to be exhaustive given all the different types of dials, but at least it an organized starting point for reference 😀
 
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Can I ask if this went through re-dial or retouch? I notice that this dial only “swiss” and not “swiss made”. Most of the examples I find on the internet is “swiss made”.

The info you'll see below apply to Constellations. Thus double checking the years of production between your model and the ones in the picture below may help. What i can say, and it's what i remembered having read, is that it is possible for some watches to repost only the "SWISS" text, depending on the year they were produced.

 
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MOVEMENTS

Following is courtesy of @SOG53


As a collector with limited knowledge of watchmaking, when I have 1 or more movement photos, I look for the following:

Does it look clean, or filthy?
Any signs of case corrosion around the perimeter?
Any signs of rust in movement?
Is there a caseback seal present?
Are there any missing screws, jewel holes without a jewel?
Are case clamps present, with screws?
Are the visible wheels intact- any obvious missing teeth?
Are the screwheads damaged, suggesting amateur work?
Is the regulator way off to one side- fast or slow suggesting dire need of service?
Does the automatic rotor show signs of wear on top edges, suggesting rotor rub?
If its a chronometer does it have the correct markings for jewels and temperature adjustment etc to fit the reference?
Do the various bridges have a consistent color?

The movement above would pass most of not all of these questions BTW
While you cant tell how it runs, the above checks will give insight into how the watch has been kept by prior owners.

Im sure others can add to this list.
 
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CANON PINION CHECK

Courtesy @hoipolloi and @TIMElyBehaviour


With the watch running, you can check the cannon pinion by pulling the crown one notch, turn the hands backward.
If second hand jerks backwards or stops, it is good.
If second hand keeps on going like normal, it is bad 😥

Regarding the cannon pinion. When you turn the hands and it feels way too easy the cannon pinion is loose and the hands may not turn with the time. If it is very tight to turn don’t force it. This means the cannon pinion is way too tight and all you will do is strip the teeth off the minute wheel.
 
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This thread has been cleaned up to confine content to education and advice about finding your first, or tenth vintage Omega.

It is not for general enquiries. If you have a watch, or are thinking of buying a watch, create a thread and you will get answers.

Many of the replies that were in this thread were simply in appreciation of the work done by the OP, and their proliferation obscured the actual valuable information presented.

If you do appreciate the posts made by the OP and others, simply indicate this by using the reaction (likes) option and help keep this thread as an educational resource.