Is this watch real or fake thread - aka Fake Busters!!

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I bought this Seamaster from good old Amazon. Looks legit enough to me, but there are people with more careful eyes here. I would appreciate some confirmation. Thanks!

 
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S Sheik
Here we go again... real or fake. Have to opportunity to buy it for 1000 US$. It's definitely been worn a lot, but looks pretty good except for one glaring flaw. The lumes at 12 and 3 are missing. If it is genuine, how much would it cost to repair approx?

Looks genuine and a decent price. I think that my watchmaker has a place that could relume the dial for between $100-200. I've seen their work on a Rolex 16800 that had non-working tritium lume that failed to develop a patina, and so the dial and hands were re-lumed to make it functional, and it was very high quality. You can call Tick Tock Shop at 719-475-8585 and ask Jonathan who he uses to relume.

In good condition with working lume, back in 2015 I saw that model from the late 90's sell for between $1300 - $1800, depending on the market and demand at the time.

Right now there are a bunch of them listed for sale on Chrono24.com in the $1800 to $2700 range, which represents a 50% increase in asking price since 2015. Maybe the demand for a low maintenace quartz Omega diver has gone up? https://www.chrono24.com/omega/ref-25418000.htm#gref
 
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Got given a watch, supposedly an old omega. Can any of the experts please tell me if it’s a fake or not

Yes, unfortunately a fake.
 
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I bought this Seamaster from good old Amazon. Looks legit enough to me, but there are people with more careful eyes here. I would appreciate some confirmation. Thanks!


I'm assuming this is a grey market watch with no warranty card, at a lower than MSRP cost. As far as I know, the fakers are not using caseback stickers with matching serial numbers to the movement serial number.

Also, while they are now making an Asian 8800 movement with a black painted balance wheel to mimic the silicone balance of the real deal, their rate adjustment levers don't perfectly match that of the Omega 8800 movement yet (or maybe its a lever to adjust the beat, and the rate adjustment is done by moving set screws on the balance wheel itself). The other details on your movement are harder to see with the sticker in place and with the camera focused on the sticker instead of the movement. However, I'm thinking this watch is real.

Here is a photo of the asian 8800 clone, with the wrong adjustment lever and wrong balance jewel and shock system.
Edited:
 
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So happy to have come across this thread. I just landed my first Omega and I’m excited about it. Though the original papers weren’t available, the seller provided me with paperwork from the most recent servicing with Omega. I’ve noticed many of you are familiar with the negatives of the speedy reduced so I’m hoping you can help me out! First, am I dealing with an authentic watch? I figured the work done at omega answered this for me, but if anything looks out of line I’d love to know! Second, when it’s held close to the ear, the rotor can be heard clearly.. I’ve been told it’s common with the 96’ speedy, but would love to hear opinions! Last, I paid $1,695 all in for this. I thought it felt fair like a fair price seeing that omega just refurbished the watch. Let me know! Thanks everyone!
 
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I have Omega De Ville Dynamic but when I search reference number 166.0163 it looks like Omega Geneve What do you think is this watch real or fake ? You can see picture of the watch
 
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How many threads are you going to do on this watch?
That's three so far, any more to come?
 
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How many threads are you going to do on this watch?
That's three so far, any more to come?
Sorry I am old and I am new with computer
 
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Old is no excuse, I am probably as old or older than you.

But new to computers is an excuse, they can be a pain in the butt, so I excuse and absolve you.
 
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Hey y'all, I found this forum while trying to figure out if a watch I found in my mom's things was real or not. Y'all seem like knowledgable people so I thought I'd give it a go, I can't open the back so these are the only photos I have. I have read some talking about the hand movements and I have a video of it ticking but I don't know how to upload it. TIA for any help.
 
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Hey y'all, I found this forum while trying to figure out if a watch I found in my mom's things was real or not. Y'all seem like knowledgable people so I thought I'd give it a go, I can't open the back so these are the only photos I have. I have read some talking about the hand movements and I have a video of it ticking but I don't know how to upload it. TIA for any help.

From the provided photos the watch appears genuine.
 
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From the provided photos the watch appears genuine.


186mkt.jpg
 
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Apologies for the not so great pictures, but can does anything look out of place with this watch, from what you can see ?

 
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Apologies for the not so great pictures, but can does anything look out of place with this watch, from what you can see ?

Several things. And by several things, I mean every single thing. 100% fake, without a shadow of doubt.
 
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Several things. And by several things, I mean every single thing. 100% fake, without a shadow of doubt.

Thanks for your response. Id love to know what I am missing, and would be really grateful, if you could expand further?
 
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Thanks for your response. Id love to know what I am missing, and would be really grateful, if you could expand further?
I don't think I could expand further than everything is wrong. The dial is the wrong color. The "ceramic" bezel is scratched with an incorrect lume pip. The rotor screw is wrong, and that's without even looking at the completely wrong movement underneath. The endlink is male and has the back flaps, where it's supposed to be female without the flaps. The clasp is the old style from the early 2000's and older. The links use pins, which haven't been used in over 10 years. All this from looking at it for 2 seconds.

LITERALLY. EVERY. SINGLE. THING. IS. WRONG. WITH. IT.
 
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I don't think I could expand further than everything is wrong. The dial is the wrong color. The "ceramic" bezel is scratched with an incorrect lume pip. The rotor screw is wrong, and that's without even looking at the completely wrong movement underneath. The endlink is male and has the back flaps, where it's supposed to be female without the flaps. The clasp is the old style from the early 2000's and older. The links use pins, which haven't been used in over 10 years. All this from looking at it for 2 seconds.

LITERALLY. EVERY. SINGLE. THING. IS. WRONG. WITH. IT.

Like you said first time, everything then !! Really appreciate your response.
 
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I don't think I could expand further than everything is wrong. The dial is the wrong color. The "ceramic" bezel is scratched with an incorrect lume pip. The rotor screw is wrong, and that's without even looking at the completely wrong movement underneath. The endlink is male and has the back flaps, where it's supposed to be female without the flaps. The clasp is the old style from the early 2000's and older. The links use pins, which haven't been used in over 10 years. All this from looking at it for 2 seconds.

LITERALLY. EVERY. SINGLE. THING. IS. WRONG. WITH. IT.

Has anyone else noticed that we used to be able to tell a fake when it had the HeV right at 10 o'clock instead of just above it like the real one (left), and now the new SMP 300 Professional (right) has moved the HeV to 10 o'clock?