Hot Takes: Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 “Ed White”/“Cernan” in Stainless Steel (2020)

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This isn’t the first Omega in outer space (the Ed White); this watch is the last Speedy on the Moon (the Cernan)

Gene would've preferred the term "most recent" as opposed to "last." He told me as much when I met him. He dislike being known as the "last man on the moon." He believed that phraseology suggested that we'd never go back and he just couldn't stomach it.

A remarkable gentleman.
 
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Gene would've preferred the term "most recent" as opposed to "last." He told me as much when I met him. He dislike being known as the "last man on the moon." He believed that phraseology suggested that we'd never go back and he just couldn't stomach it.

A remarkable gentleman.

As it leaves your lips, I’m an instant convert.

The Cernan 321B is an homage to Cernan’s own watch, “the most recent Omega on the moon” 😉

Now THAT’s a caseback engraving I could get behind 😁
 
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Sapphire Omega Logo = Laser Beams in Your Dreams

Speaking of the sapphire crystal vs hesalite: Omega did not want to lose the tiny, romantic logo that is typically stamped in the center of hesalite crystals, so they used a special laser technique on the sapphire.

Specifically, the laser-sapphire logo found on the Cernan 321B is not laser-etched into the surface of the sapphire as one might expect, but instead the laser is used to etch the logo within the depth of the sapphire (that is, the etch is ‘suspended’ within the center thickness of the sapphire).

In a video by an Omega product manager, there is the suggestion that the Cernan reference is the first time this specific technique has been used on a sapphire Omega. While other sapphire Omega’s in the past have had the tiny logo, the suggestion by this representative – to my ear – was that those priors had been surface etched, while the Cernan used the “latest in laser technology” for a newfangled approach.

In any event, here is a detail and then also microscopic photo of the Cernan laser logo (please someone with a prior model’s sapphire logo provide a comparison microscopic picture!)


Here is a slightly less competent shot of the etched logo on the Trilogy RM crystal. This is etched on the inside. I really should have dusted the crystal but there you go! For the NEW (see what I did there 😉) It looks like Omega have utilised the Rolex crystal trick using focused laser dots at different heights within the crystal to make their coronet logo so its new for Omega but not completely novel.



I am still not fully persuaded by the Cernan connection as a basis for naming. One of the the two models used by him was exactly the same as that immortalised by Ed White so it already has a name, it's just another example of the same. Be aware that Omega have tried to monetise the Cernan 'Last Man on the Moon' thing before and it wasn't universally well received:

Edited:
 
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I’m referring to the 9 and 10 hour markers under macro. They seem to be closer to the 44 and 49 minute markers and to the 46 and 51 minute markers.

Now I follow! Thank you.

For a visual, you’re referring to the difference in gap observable here:



Reminding that in theory the lume indices are the width of three such sub-second markers, as follows:




Very observant, and just the OCD thing for this thread!

As if the dial was rotated 1 to 2 degrees between printing the white portions and printing the cream portions.

Studying it now, though, it’s not as though the dial was rotated as you suggest because the seemingly larger gap is in some areas on the “clockwise” side of the lume plot but in other areas on the “anti-clockwise” side of the lume plot, as follows:





I attempted to see where exactly the chrono stops came to rest in relation to just one of these indices. However, at this magnification there’s really no goof way to make certain the camera is directly parallel and square to the dial (put differently, with the smallest of camera movements I could make the needle appear to be a full needle width in either direction). But for what it’s worth, here’s my best attempt:



I know a guy who might know a thing or two about dial indices minutiae: was it @eugeneandresson or @padders who recently educated me on the subtleties of dial indices as relates to second hand locations on dial?
 
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This is etched on the inside. I really should have dusted the crystal but there you go! For the NEW (see what I did there 😉) It looks like Omega have utilised the Rolex crystal trick using focused laser dots at different heights within the crystal to make their coronet logo so its new for Omega but not completely novel

Thanks for adding this to this thread: that comports with my interpretation of the Omega product manager’s assertion in the hands-on video.

No surprise that a first-to-Omega is communicated with an air of “first ever” 😁

But until we discover otherwise, perhaps the “Cernan”/“NEW” reference takes the tentative “first” on this piece of minutiae

Now if only I could decipher what that Omega rep says about the Cernan dial not being varnish but instead .... (at minute mark 8:52).
 
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Very observant, and just the OCD thing for this thread!

I briefly went to look around at other’s photos of the Cernan, to mixed results. @johnny5 s watch photos above appear to show simplistic but not identical differences in gaps; though at these magnifications, etc., it’s hard to say anything for certain.

Meanwhile in rewatching the Omega brand manager’s hands on presentation, I didn’t seem to find any such difference in gap on the indices visible:



Though, comparing the width of the dial’s step-down which I know to be 0.05mm, I suspect that any observed difference in gap is likely only as much as 0.05mm. I’d expect this little of change to be well within Omega’s view of its tolerances.

As for me, I can’t see it with my 1.5X readers on - and can barely make it out with my readers + a loop. This keeps it within my own tolerances, too 😁
 
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am still not fully persuaded by the Cernan connection as a basis for naming. One of the the two models used by him was exactly the same as that immortalised by Ed White so it already has a name, it's just another example of the same.

Reminding first we’re now squarely in the realm of two dudes just shooting the breeze and with nothing at all at stake here:

My personal tick is that this watch is not an example of an Ed White, insofar as it is neither the same vintage, the same reference number, nor (technically) containing the same caliber. So, there seems to me a factual distinction between what until December 2019 was forever called an “Ed White,” and this new reference.

To say otherwise would be to call the modern FOIS “another example” of a CK 2998.

But despite our differences on the above view, we both seem to agree that it just doesn’t do to call it simply “Ed White,” or “cal.321,” or “new cal.321.” Otherwise, if I say “I just bought an Ed White,” or “just bought a cal.321” or “just bought a new cal.321” we don’t know if I bought a 105.003, a vintage sea master, or even the modern platinum big-body released in 2019.

I suppose “New Ed White” suffices, though to me still lacks a certain distinction or accuracy. I can’t deny it’s an improvement over the current state of affairs.

Whatever naming may be given, I do separately think it helpful to better observe the distinction between the cal.321, 321A, and 321B - the latter being the revived (and differing) incarnation.

Be aware that Omega have tried to monetise the Cernan 'Last Man on the Moon' thing before and it wasn't universally well received:

😵‍💫 Wonder why?

While I finish my third cup of coffee, one last thought experiment:

The ST 105.012’s colloquial nickname is pretty universally the “pre-moon.”

Let’s say that Aldrin’s long lost ST 105.012 was recovered, and in celebration Omega used that watch to create a hologram-magic model of the cal.321 in engineering the movement’s resurrection, as well as magic-modeling of Aldrin’s watch case to create an altogether new homage reference styled after Aldrin’s watch that had been the first on the moon.

Would we call that new, modern reference the “new pre-moon”?

I’m equally unsure we’d call it the “Aldrin.” 😵‍💫

Perhaps we follow the “FOIS” example, and go with “LOOM” (latest Omega on Moon). 😁
 
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Reminding first we’re now squarely in the realm of two dudes just shooting the breeze and with nothing at all at stake here:

My personal tick is that this watch is not an example of an Ed White, insofar as it is neither the same vintage, the same reference number, nor (technically) containing the same caliber. So, there seems to me a factual distinction between what until December 2019 was forever called an “Ed White,” and this new reference.

To say otherwise would be to call the modern FOIS “another example” of a CK 2998.

But despite our differences on the above view, we both seem to agree that it just doesn’t do to call it simply “Ed White,” or “cal.321,” or “new cal.321.” Otherwise, if I say “I just bought an Ed White,” or “just bought a cal.321” or “just bought a new cal.321” we don’t know if I bought a 105.003, a vintage sea master, or even the modern platinum big-body released in 2019.

I suppose “New Ed White” suffices, though to me still lacks a certain distinction or accuracy. I can’t deny it’s an improvement over the current state of affairs.

Whatever naming may be given, I do separately think it helpful to better observe the distinction between the cal.321, 321A, and 321B - the latter being the revived (and differing) incarnation.



😵‍💫 Wonder why?

While I finish my third cup of coffee, one last thought experiment:

The ST 105.012’s colloquial nickname is pretty universally the “pre-moon.”

Let’s say that Aldrin’s long lost ST 105.012 was recovered, and in celebration Omega used that watch to create a hologram-magic model of the cal.321 in engineering the movement’s resurrection, as well as magic-modeling of Aldrin’s watch case to create an altogether new homage reference styled after Aldrin’s watch that had been the first on the moon.

Would we call that new, modern reference the “new pre-moon”?

I’m equally unsure we’d call it the “Aldrin.” 😵‍💫

Perhaps we follow the “FOIS” example, and go with “LOOM” (latest Omega on Moon). 😁

I blame Omega for changing their model nomenclature such that it is unusable for discussion’s sake. Rolex has almost made it impossible, as we now have the 126610 replacing the 116610 replacing the 16610. But those are cognitively feasible to remember and type on a site compared to 311.30.42.30.01.006.
 
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I am still not fully persuaded by the Cernan connection as a basis for naming.

In any event, based on your feedback I’ve edited the thread title so that searches might better hit as intended; because Omega originally flirted with “Ed White” in the press releases (but later recanted), and because it’s at least still a common usage for the SS 321B, there’s utility in editing the thread title 👍
 
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Now I follow! Thank you.

For a visual, you’re referring to the difference in gap observable here:



Reminding that in theory the lume indices are the width of three such sub-second markers, as follows:




Very observant, and just the OCD thing for this thread!



Studying it now, though, it’s not as though the dial was rotated as you suggest because the seemingly larger gap is in some areas on the “clockwise” side of the lume plot but in other areas on the “anti-clockwise” side of the lume plot, as follows:





I attempted to see where exactly the chrono stops came to rest in relation to just one of these indices. However, at this magnification there’s really no goof way to make certain the camera is directly parallel and square to the dial (put differently, with the smallest of camera movements I could make the needle appear to be a full needle width in either direction). But for what it’s worth, here’s my best attempt:



I know a guy who might know a thing or two about dial indices minutiae: was it @eugeneandresson or @padders who recently educated me on the subtleties of dial indices as relates to second hand locations on dial?

Interesting that there seems to be different spacing on the 1 - 5 side of the dial than on the 7 - 11 side of the dial. I'm not saying I have a problem with it. It must just be how the dial is manufactured and how they cut into it and fill the lume. Interesting to see the same thing occurring on a vintage model as well. I would imagine they have the technology to make them all line up today as opposed to with the vintage model but no one ever makes a fuss or notices unless under macro so why bother.
 
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As it leaves your lips, I’m an instant convert.

The Cernan 321B is an homage to Cernan’s own watch, “the most recent Omega on the moon” 😉

Now THAT’s a caseback engraving I could get behind 😁
Now there's an idea!! I dig, man. I dig.
 
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There’s really no good way to make certain the camera is directly parallel and square to the dial (put differently, with the smallest of camera movements I could make the needle appear to be a full needle width in either direction).

The term you were searching for is parallax error. Comes up in aviation a lot.

Just figured I'd throw it out there for ya!
 
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The romantic in me feels that Omega so faithfully recreated the Gene Cernan watch right down to the ever so slight uneven spacing on some of the indices. Originally done unintentionally due to 1960’s manufacturing technology, done on purpose in 2020 to be romantic about a time when brave men went to the moon, and did it without the precision and technology we enjoy today.
Edited:
 
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Great write up. Just stepping away, and impartially looking at the naming issue from the perspective of whether it’s likely to catch on (like the “Buckley” dial), and not at all taking away from Gene’s accomplishments, the “Cernan” has the unfortunate disadvantage of not rolling off the tongue, and for those poor enunciators describing the watch to a non-WIS, may get the response, “You have a certain watch?”
 
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And, whilst (thanks to my British friends for that one...) we are discussing these things in excruciating detail...



I find the new crown too highly polished and chrome-plated appearing, compared to the original, which looks more like stainless steel, and has those joyous, bite-into-your-finger knurls, which pleasantly stimulate the affecting-dense finger tips whilst(!) winding.

Further, the lack of clasp micro-adjustment on the go has to be viewed as a regression. What flat-link wearer hasn’t had the experience of going from an air-conditioned dwelling, and then into the heat, only to find your watch drooping around your wrist like a teenager’s bangle. No worries: a toothpick copped from the dispenser at a restaurant entrance, and you’re back in business.

Do these gripes prevent me from buying one? Probably not. It’s better than wasting the money on my ungrateful child’s college education, who will do nothing more than party, have unlimited hook-ups, and over-sleep class.
 
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And, whilst (thanks to my British friends for that one...) we are discussing these things in excruciating detail...

Oh, please do!

I find the new crown too highly polished and chrome-plated appearing, compared to the original,

Let me take a few more pictures of the crown and pushers. That photo above may amplify the appearance due to depth of field and some adjustments made intended to draw out the bezel and sapphire. I believe the watch still deserves this critique, but that we might get the degree of critique a bit more dialed in.

Overall, though, the watch is very shiny/polished; just a hair too much for my tastes. Because I intend to pass this particular watch on to my youngest son (should he prove worthy in battle), I look forward to collecting many hairline scratches that have the overall affect of toning it down.

That said, I’m a person who otherwise prefers entirely brushed models, so this isn’t really a critique of the watch so much as an expression of preferences.
 
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You want to have clothes on when photographing this watch, because you never know what reflections might pop up 😉



On one hand, @m’bob, it certainly appears less stainless than does yours; on the other hand, I suppose we’d need to give it a few decades of wear before having a totally accurate comparison 😉