Hands-On With The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Platinum Caliber 321

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All of this was quite entertaining, now back to reality: what's the technical edge/benefit of 321 vs. 1861? At such a high price tag, one has to provide a good answer, no?
 
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All of this was quite entertaining, now back to reality: what's the technical edge/benefit of 321 vs. 1861? At such a high price tag, one has to provide a good answer, no?

There is no technical edge, except the use of a column wheel for preciser action of the chronograph. It is not about technical edge either, it is about the use of a much praised and appreciated movement from the past. If that’s not your thing, then you can save yourself some money 😉
 
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Not sure it is better tbh, but that might depend on the definition.

I’ll take a run at that.

1 - why buy a homage when you can have the original for less money?

2 - why gild the 321 lily with all the gratuitous luxury stuff? Truer to the 321 heritage would have been a stainless steel piece.

3 - Yeah, this new watch will always be special, but in a very different way from the watch it’s imitating.

It’s subtle, but I can tell the difference between the new and old movements just by looking at how the parts were finished. To me, the old 321 movements are truly beautiful and the new ones are more like the poster of the masterpiece painting than the painting itself.

But, I haven’t held one in my hand.

Of course, I’d rather have a really nice 2998-1 or -2 for the same money. Who wouldn’t? And that should be my number 4.

Gratuitous watch photo:


You could easily have two of these for the same money as one of the new platinum cuties.
Edited:
 
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I’ll take a run at that.

1 - why buy a homage when you can have the original for less money?

2 - why gild the 321 lily with all the gratuitous luxury stuff? Truer to the 321 heritage would have been a stainless steel piece.

3 - Yeah, this new watch will always be special, but in a very different way from the watch it’s imitating.

It’s subtle, but I can tell the difference between the new and old movements just by looking at how the parts were finished. To me, the old 321 movements are truly beautiful and the new ones are more like the poster of the masterpiece painting than the painting itself.

But, I haven’t held one in my hand.

Of course, I’d rather have a really nice 2998-1 or -2 for the same money. Who wouldn’t? And that should be my number 4.

I can see all that, but still, does it mean it is better? Better in what? Better quality? Better looks? Better investment? If a vintage one is better for you, then that’s a good thing for you. With today’s precision in watchmaking (smaller tolerances), we can debate about built quality. But I think if it is the case, it is very marginal when it comes to the movement.

Anyway, I am curious to see what they will come up with for the steel version. I will give my judgement when I see and hold the new piece (and see its final price tag).
 
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Not sure it is better tbh, but that might depend on the definition.
Let's say a vintage 321 is more collectable 😉
Doubt there'll ever be a SS 321 version...
 
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Let's say a vintage 321 is more collectable 😉
Doubt there'll ever be a SS 321 version...

There will be.
 
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A good well written article. I am curious why they bothered with the 2% gold in the alloy, other than bragging rights I can’t think of anything it brings to the party unless the desire was for a warmth to the metal colour.
 
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There is no technical edge, except the use of a column wheel for preciser action of the chronograph. It is not about technical edge either, it is about the use of a much praised and appreciated movement from the past. If that’s not your thing, then you can save yourself some money 😉

Indeed, I will save myself some money. My worry is the direction Omega is taking with this 321 BS, the RAID BS, or whatever too many LE BS… My advice to Omega management and marketing guys is to take a leave of absence, stop travelling for a while and then go back to the black board. You will probably tell me that I am not forced to buy. True. But meanwhile as a fairly good customer, I also care of the brand value and I truly believe that it is no longer heading to the right direction. Too much short-termism.
 
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A good well written article. I am curious why they bothered with the 2% gold in the alloy, other than bragging rights I can’t think of anything it brings to the party unless the desire was for a warmth to the metal colour.

it is exactly that. The effect on the color.
 
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Indeed, I will save myself some money. My worry is the direction Omega is taking with this 321 BS, the RAID BS, or whatever too many LE BS… My advice to Omega management and marketing guys is to take a leave of absence, stop travelling for a while and then go back to the black board. You will probably tell me that I am not forced to buy. True. But meanwhile as a fairly good customer, I also care of the brand value and I truly believe that it is no longer heading to the right direction. Too much short-termism.

Yes, I agree on all that (although there are also some valid reasons to do LEs). Let’s wait and see what will happen in 2020 ;-)
 
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Flip through the limited edition section of MWO and, honestly, how many designs were outstanding and how many uninspired, to say nothing of the dogs in there. What’s Omega’s real batting average here? Not too good.

We all see this. We love the brand, we love the watch. We want to love the limited editions. But, how many times have we been disappointed?

It feels like it must drive Omega crazy to not have a direct share of the vintage market in their watches. Therefore, “Let’s load this up with precious metals so we can get into the 2998 price range.”

I wonder what Omega’s margin is on each of these pieces. I understand ... development and tooling costs etc etc.
 
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Flip through the limited edition section of MWO and, honestly, how many designs were outstanding and how many uninspired, to say nothing of the dogs in there. What’s Omega’s real batting average here? Not too good.

We all see this. We love the brand, we love the watch. We want to love the limited editions. But, how many times have we been disappointed?

It feels like it must drive Omega crazy to not have a direct share of the vintage market in their watches. Therefore, “Let’s load this up with precious metals so we can get into the 2998 price range.”

I wonder what Omega’s margin is on each of these pieces. I understand ... development and tooling costs etc etc.

not sure to whom you are addressing this. I agree on many points, too many LEs isnt good and not all of them have been a success. But I also understand we are only a (small) portion of their customers. LEs still sell, and that’s what brands have to do. Sell watches. I just hope we will see less LEs in the future, aside from some really good ones and those with real value for collectors.
 
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not sure to whom you are addressing this.

Oh, I was just complaining out loud, not directed at anybody.

I'm a very visual person - that’s what attracted me to my first Speedmaster, a -74, nearly forty years ago. Some of Omega’s limited editions just hurt my eyes.

On the other hand, they’re capable of these two, which are true stunners.


So, they’re capable of being amazing. Just wish it were more frequent.
 
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Oh, I was just complaining out loud, not directed at anybody.

I'm a very visual person - that’s what attracted me to my first Speedmaster, a -74, nearly forty years ago. Some of Omega’s limited editions just hurt my eyes.

On the other hand, they’re capable of these two, which are true stunners.


So, they’re capable of being amazing. Just wish it were more frequent.

Those are beautiful!
 
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All of this was quite entertaining, now back to reality: what's the technical edge/benefit of 321 vs. 1861? At such a high price tag, one has to provide a good answer, no?

Nothing really. The 321 is more “classical” in many ways, but real practical advantages are about zero. I know things like “more precise action” of the chronograph are thrown around, but really what does that mean? No freaking idea...
 
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Omega has played this 321 re-birth like a fine Stradivarius, maximum coverage and enthusiasm for a product that is technically obsolete. This fine fiddle playing is usually done by the likes of Patek Philippe or one of the other crown jewels. It's marketing genius, Nicolas Hayek is smiling from above.
 
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Did anyone on this forum purchase the platinum?

A few of us went the Gold 50th, I put my name down for the 321 platinum before it was shown but turned it down on seeing it (though only in pictures).
 
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Yes, I agree on all that (although there are also some valid reasons to do LEs). Let’s wait and see what will happen in 2020 ;-)

ST3 👍
 
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For all of the criticism given to Omega for too many LE’s and too many models, this Platinum edition should get nothing but praise IMO.

it is absolutely gorgeous, it hits a price point in line with how special it is, and it allows Omega to reap some benefit from the nostalgic love their Moonwatch generates.

What a great Omega alternative to the Platinum Daytona!



photo from HODINKEE:

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