My polished/brushed Flat Link band arrived today. It was a bit tricky to fit it to my Portugieser Chronograph, even though the end links fit almost perfectly. The lug holes on the IWC are right towards the inner edge of the holes in the end link, so I had to use the spring bars provided with this band. They are more flexible, so it's easier to get the tiny amount of bend that is needed.

Adjusting the length was almost as tricky; even with the band taped down it was very difficult to apply enough torque with two 1.4mm screw drivers. I heated one screw, assuming there was thread locker in there, but that doesn't seem to be the case? Heating helped anyway. On the second screw I heated the same side, but this turned out to be the hollow rod. I applied heat for a good twenty seconds or so, so maybe it got all the way to the threads on the other side....

Fit seems perfect, leaving the band at maximum length (last hole in the clasp) hides all stretchy links under the clasp.
Some pics:

 

Anyone put a "flat link" on a vintage SM300 ?
This is such a handsome bracelet that I want to put it on something appropriate.
Pics would be great

 

There’s a separate thread on here about that

https://omegaforums.net/threads/for...on-a-seamaster-300.120124/page-2#post-1605927

 

I find this very difficult to actually achieve as the screw heads are so small. I’m really liking the bracelet but I must admit, I’m a little put off by the two screw head approach.

I’ve changed a million links on a large variety of bracelets but I could get any of the links on yours to budge. I gave up trying to remove links and put the bracelet back in the box, will tackle again on a rainy day.

 

Forstnerbands, can you confirm there is no thread locker (Loctite or similar) used on the screws in the band? I found the torque needed to break the screws loose higher than what I can apply holding two watch screw drivers with my fingers (i.e. no pliers). I succeeded after applying heat (with the tip of a small soldering iron) for a good 20 seconds.

 

Yeah no loctite or anything like that. Once you make it budge it's very easy to unscrew the rest of the way. If you're having a tough time keeping one screwdriver still, you may want to hold one screwdriver with a towel or glove or something that will give you a better grip.

My personal approach to unscrewing is to rest the bracelet screw on top of a screwdriver pointing up so the weight of the bracelet helps keep the screw locked into the screwdriver. Then I unscrew from the top. It's almost like a vertical clamp. I'll post a video of this approach soon in the hopes that it helps those who are less familiar with this screw system.

 

If you are struggling, you may want to look into a screw jig, like this:

https://www.esslinger.com/bergeon-6730-watch-band-screw-remover-tool/

No affiliation with the seller...

 

Posted a video on the site:

https://forstnerbands.com/pages/using-your-forstner-flat-link

 

I just received my bracelet today, and it seems that there are a couple of issues with it.

First, the clasp must have shimmied out of position when the micro-adjust holes were being stamped, because they don't line up with each other and make the clasp cover sit high and tilted from the rest of the bracelet.



Second, one of the bracelet's end links doesn't let the bracelet articulate around it, which causes it to flare out rather than drop back. I think another member mentioned this in an earlier post.



Also, it seems the end links don't fit on the Railmaster Trilogy either, which is a bit of a shame. It's not exactly an "issue" though because this bracelet was designed for the Speedmaster.

 

please DM me about yours - you may have received a defective bracelet which we would replace. Re #2, we made the tolerance of the end links intentionally tight with the bracelet itself so it would gradually drape around the wrist when using thicker bars. The clasp issue seems abnormal though.

 

This is the method I settled on, but it was difficult finding something to keep a screwdriver pointed upwards with. I did find that some screws were very difficult to budge at first, compared to some which were about standard effort.

 

Looks great and the flexlinks are a unique feature nowadays. Just ordered my flatlink and will try to fit it to my Speedmaster Pro and as well to the Watchco SM 300. Will post fotos asap.

 

I have a 7 in wrist and I think it’s perfect. I always found the oem bracelet too chunky. The bigger wrist bros out there might prefer the oem bracelet though. For reference to those who are getting the flat link in soon is I took off 4 links and put the clasp at the very last notch. I believe two on each side from how it arrived.

also I recommend just investing in another 1.4mm precision flat head. I fiddled with it for about 30 minutes with various household items before giving up and going to Home Depot.

 

Looks great. Is this the Polished/Brushed option of Full Brushed? Asking as I have a FOIS and looking for comparison

 

That’s the polished/brushed

 

I have a polished/brushed bracelet on the way for my FOIS. I was hoping I would get it today, but the USPS tracking hasn't updated in 4 days now. Classic.

 

Feel free to share some snaps when it eventually gets to you

 

+1

 

I think this has been suggested before so apologies if I’m being redundant but if you size the bracelet to the tightest micro adjustment setting possible on the clasp, the elastic links will be mostly hidden and therefore the clasp hinge should stay hidden.

 

It might be that I'm not understanding you correctly so please forgive me if I am.

Don't we usually micro adjust the length on a bracelet from the other end of the clasp, leaving the part where we lift up to open on the furthest outer hole?