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speedytoronto
·Thanks! Instructions are finally up - sorry for the delay and thanks for your patience!
Thanks!
Forstner bands relaunched
Thanks!
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JwRosenthal
·What size screw drivers are required? Since 2 are required I will definitely need to buy at least one more. Any suggestions for how to hold the bracelet in place while using two screwdrivers at the same time from opposite sides?
Thanks!
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Forstnerbands
·What size screw drivers are required? Since 2 are required I will definitely need to buy at least one more. Any suggestions for how to hold the bracelet in place while using two screwdrivers at the same time from opposite sides?
Thanks!
Any standard mini screw driver should be fine, but you don’t necessarily need one for the “keeper” side. You just need something with a small edge, which you probably have around the house already (I used part of the toothpick thing on a Swiss Army knife once).
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JwRosenthal
·Thanks!
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speedytoronto
·Any standard mini screw driver should be fine, but you don’t necessarily need one for the “keeper” side. You just need something with a small edge, which you probably have around the house already (I used part of the toothpick thing on a Swiss Army knife once).
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speedytoronto
·On a you get one of these you will find you use it all the time for all kinds of stuff. Any of your favorite watch parts resellers will have something like this.
Do you come at the bracelet from the sides or top and bottom when using a vice like this?
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Forstnerbands
·Ok thanks. I read threads where people damaged OEM bracelets because they used the wrong size screwdriver so I didn’t want to do that. Is there any locktite on the screws on your bracelet or is it only held with friction?
Held with friction - the point of doing it this way being that it’s a self-contained system (with the screw going into a tube instead of the link itself), so the screws don’t get loose by the normal rotation of the links. I’ve had problems in the past with bracelets that used a screw that locked directly into the link, as they sometimes would come loose from regular wear, if that all makes sense. So it’s a little more effort up front to adjust the length but without the worry associated with the other type of screw system.
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JwRosenthal
·When I used the vice with my Marathon, I undid the pin on the clasp adjustment
So the bracelet could lay flat. Clamp the vice to a table (the table clamp doesn't open wide enough to mount on my workbench so kitchen table was fine), I put a microfiber towel between the teeth on the sides of the vice clamp and the bracelet to avoid tool marks and approached from the sides with both screwdrivers- it gives better control IMO. The links on my Marathon felt like they were welded in, so I used locking pliers on both screwdrivers to give me more control and torque. Obviously take out of the vice once the screws are loose and remove links/reassemble, then hand turn the screws in before you put it back into the vice to lock them down. It's actually really easy.
So the bracelet could lay flat. Clamp the vice to a table (the table clamp doesn't open wide enough to mount on my workbench so kitchen table was fine), I put a microfiber towel between the teeth on the sides of the vice clamp and the bracelet to avoid tool marks and approached from the sides with both screwdrivers- it gives better control IMO. The links on my Marathon felt like they were welded in, so I used locking pliers on both screwdrivers to give me more control and torque. Obviously take out of the vice once the screws are loose and remove links/reassemble, then hand turn the screws in before you put it back into the vice to lock them down. It's actually really easy.
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SkunkPrince
·The HOL-120.00 tool on this page is approximately what you need...
http://www.ofrei.com/page237.html
http://www.ofrei.com/page237.html
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JwRosenthal
·The HOL-120.00 tool on this page is approximately what you need...
http://www.ofrei.com/page237.html
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speedytoronto
·Held with friction - the point of doing it this way being that it’s a self-contained system (with the screw going into a tube instead of the link itself), so the screws don’t get loose by the normal rotation of the links. I’ve had problems in the past with bracelets that used a screw that locked directly into the link, as they sometimes would come loose from regular wear, if that all makes sense. So it’s a little more effort up front to adjust the length but without the worry associated with the other type of screw system.
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speedytoronto
·The HOL-120.00 tool on this page is approximately what you need...
http://www.ofrei.com/page237.html
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Forstnerbands
·Yes makes sense. I haven’t had an issue with my OEM modern Speedmaster bracelet but could see how it might be an issue.
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SlCKB0Y
·It doesn't really but one "can" understand a change between a US clasp cover to an Omega one.
But, to change a Forstner one is definitely a no go for me.
Hope you get your "issue" with the bracelet resolved quickly.
Thanks, I hope I work it out too. The ways it’s get locked is a bit like a crab trap or a Chinese finger trap. Easy to get into but not possible to reverse the movement. It’s hard to explain.
‘I just know some people were curious earlier. Personally I’m switching the whole clasp out because I just prefer stamped clasps where the folding part tapers inwards instead of being the same width as the cover/bracelet. This avoids instances where the bracelet shifts laterally a bit and the folding section of the clasp becomes visible at the hinge end. Someone posted a pic a little earlier.
100% personal preference and not a criticism of the product.
Edited:
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SlCKB0Y
·Ok, my Forstner Komfit just arrived. I originally purchased this for my Speedy but have decided it goes too well with my Lorier Neptune. There is just something about the smaller size (39mm) and vintage aesthetic of the Neptune that just pairs so well with the Komfit:
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lax101
·My flat link is coming in a few days. So do we need (1) a block and punch pin set (like this:https://www.esslinger.com/watch-band-block-and-pin-punch-set-band-link-removal-and-sizing-kit/) or (2) a pin remover set (like this: https://www.esslinger.com/watch-band-pin-remover-tool-little-giant/), or (3) something different? I have a decent watch repair kit--just wanted to know what tool I should be starting with.
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Forstnerbands
·My flat link is coming in a few days. So do we need (1) a block and punch pin set (like this:https://www.esslinger.com/watch-band-block-and-pin-punch-set-band-link-removal-and-sizing-kit/) or (2) a pin remover set (like this: https://www.esslinger.com/watch-band-pin-remover-tool-little-giant/), or (3) something different? I have a decent watch repair kit--just wanted to know what tool I should be starting with.
Really, you only need a micro screwdriver and something to hold the other screw in place. It could be another screw driver or some other small flat object
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smuggled_sheep
·That particular statement was made in reference to the vintage version, not ours 😀
I guess I just asked myself a $150 question.
Will order soon with another Komfit. Nice bracelets, I even temporarily stopped using straps. Very great products from Forstner.
