Breaking Story - Omega Caliber 321 Is Back In Production!

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Not so much watchmaker jargon, as marketing jargon. From a watchmaking perspective, there's nothing particularly difficult in this movement for Omega to make, considering that a version of this movement was being made for Breguet up until recently. They are intentionally making this sound much more difficult than it is....and to me that means they have $$$$ in their eyes...
😁 It would be a bit strange if they didn’t have $$$$ in their eyes in the luxury goods business, but I agree, they are probably playing the difficult up ....sounds better that way than, “It was a doddle; our apprentices bashed a few out in their lunch break”.
 
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Just look at the people drooling and slobbering over the prospect of a 321, waving their money in the air begging Omega to take it, Omega knows a good gig when they see it.
 
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😁 It would be a bit strange if they didn’t have $$$$ in their eyes in the luxury goods business, but I agree, they are probably playing the difficult up ....sounds better that way than, “It was a doddle; our apprentices bashed a few out in their lunch break”.

Yes clearly the entire industry does this on a regular basis (Veblen goods and all that), but this IMO is beyond the pale in how much they are playing up the whole "tomography" angle of this. It makes Rolex 904L "precious" stainless claims look positively pedestrian in terms of marketing gibberish...
 
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Limited to 500 pieces from what I have read, so likely either had a few trays left in switzerland of new movements, or they just made a few new ones.

If you don't think trays of movements are lying around, I can say many companies are known to toss old movements by the hundreds or thousands, right in the trash. Breitling threw out all the Lemania 1873's at one point about 15 years ago, after I worked there, and panerai was known to toss movements right into their dumpsters in Neuchatel.
 
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Hi,
I have been lurking on these threads for a while.
I tend to agree that much of the hype is derived from a slick ‘marketing’ department. In 1945 the Russians reversed engineered the Boeing B 29 to a flying plane in two years. This was done without plans, ‘tomography’ and only using four examples (one being crashed). We have also heard the story of how the Zenith El Primero movement was hidden in the attic for safekeeping. But that did not stop Zenith selling a load of movements to Ebel before production re started. Also that Patek Philippe will be able to restore/repair any watch from their back catalogue. ‘You only look after a Patek for the next generation’.

All that being said I am looking forward to the release, however if it retails at £15k there are a lot of watches which would be higher on my ‘wants’ list.
 
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For what its worth : Mr JC Monanchon stated that, they actually wanted (i.e. the plan was) to deliver all Apollo 11 50th watches with a cal 321 (on the side : they scanned (using tomography) the 105.012 for all the 50th watches, so the case has the same shape, and that also explains the pushers). As Archer stated, Breguet has been making these parts for their watches, they have all the necessaries, however when it came time to come up with the numbers and place orders, that could not be met. I.e. Omega wanted 10000 movements from Breguet in a year (or a year and half), and Breguet can only produce 2000 per year, and so could not : thus even though they initially agreed, they eventually said 'no'. They thus came up with another plan to do it in house...hence the tomography, and then correlation with drawings etc. and hence more time required (and thus no 321 in the 50th).

I found it a very interesting part of his talk and that is all I will share on this ... and hope Fratello recorded it and make it available for all to watch.
Edited:
 
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Is this new 321 going to be METAS/master chronometer certified?
 
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Is this new 321 going to be METAS/master chronometer certified?

It was not asked (or stated) however seeing as the 1861 required modification to about half the parts in the movement to meet this certification (and become the 3861) and the 321 will be pretty much as original, I would speculate that it will not. It was stated that the power reserve will increase to 55 hours though...
 
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Omega wanted 10000 movements from Breguet in a year (or a year and half), and Breguet can only produce 2000 per year, and so could not : thus even though they initially agreed, they eventually said 'no'. They thus came up with another plan to do it in house...hence the tomography, and then correlation with drawings etc. and hence more time required (and thus no 321 in the 50th)

That is quite a story, and incredibly puzzling considering that both companies are part of the Swatch group. I would think that the only reason one brand of the Swatch group would say "no" to another brand of the Swatch group, is if the ask was not deemed to be in the best overall financial interests of the Swatch group.

This again seems to me to be more marketing spin on the "difficulties" in producing a rather straightforward movement...

The hook has been set, and they are reeling people in...
 
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That is quite a story, and incredibly puzzling considering that both companies are part of the Swatch group. I would think that the only reason one brand of the Swatch group would say "no" to another brand of the Swatch group, is if the ask was not deemed to be in the best overall financial interests of the Swatch group.

This again seems to me to be more marketing spin on the "difficulties" in producing a rather straightforward movement...

The hook has been set, and they are reeling people in...

I agree. In an interview Thierry Stern said that they produce 80k watches a year. However, Patek Philippe were planning for watches that would be released in 10 years time. I am sure that Omega product development would be at least working four to five years in advance. Also, I am sure that much of the production time differences between Breguet and Omega would be in the finishing rather than anything else.
 
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It was not asked (or stated) however seeing as the 1861 required modification to about half the parts in the movement to meet this certification (and become the 3861) and the 321 will be pretty much as original, I would speculate that it will not. It was stated that the power reserve will increase to 55 hours though...
Were the modifications necessary? I would think think a well regulated 1861 could pass METAS. Omega just upped it to Coaxial to be able to charge more and perhaps be cheaper to get through METAS i.e. less human involvement in regulation.
 
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Were the modifications necessary? I would think think a well regulated 1861 could pass METAS. Omega just upped it to Coaxial to be able to charge more and perhaps be cheaper to get through METAS i.e. less human involvement in regulation.

From a timekeeping standpoint, it would depend to an extent what timing standard of the three that Omega currently uses for METAS watches was applied.

The "tightest" standard is an average daily rate of between 0 and 5 seconds, with positional variation of 12 seconds over 6 positions at full wind.

The "middle" one is an average daily rate of between 0 and 6 seconds, with positional variation of 14 seconds over 6 positions at full wind.

The "loosest" one is an average daily rate of between 0 and 7 seconds, with positional variation of 16 seconds over 6 positions at full wind.

Of course since Omega created these three standards, there nothing saying they could not create a fourth one that is even looser. It should be noted that the co-axial escapement isn't what makes these new calibers accurate - it's mostly in the silicon balance spring. In the end the 1861 can be made to be very accurate, and there have been COSC versions of this movement in the past, so for timekeeping this is very doable.

The more difficult part would be the anti-magnetic aspects, and getting there without using the silicon balance spring would be challenging, but not impossible.
 
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That is quite a story, and incredibly puzzling considering that both companies are part of the Swatch group. I would think that the only reason one brand of the Swatch group would say "no" to another brand of the Swatch group, is if the ask was not deemed to be in the best overall financial interests of the Swatch group.

This again seems to me to be more marketing spin on the "difficulties" in producing a rather straightforward movement...

The hook has been set, and they are reeling people in...
Couldn't it be possible that this is the case because Breguet doesn't produce any exact reproductions of the CH27? As far as I know, the Breguet version of the movement is modified extensively and their current versions of the movement do not include the 12-hour recorder in the same style and position of the Omega 321 movement. Could it be the case that part of the difficulty is coming from the manufacturing of tooling for those components?
 
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Couldn't it be possible that this is the case because Breguet doesn't produce any exact reproductions of the CH27? As far as I know, the Breguet version of the movement is modified extensively and their current versions of the movement do not include the 12-hour recorder in the same style and position of the Omega 321 movement. Could it be the case that part of the difficulty is coming from the manufacturing of tooling for those components?

Not sure how this relates, because if tooling has to be made it has to be made. It wouldn't matter if Breguet or Omega need to make it.

If the movements are that different, why (according to this story) would Omega even bother asking Breguet to make them?

None of this seems particularly logical or likely IMO...
 
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I agree that it seems logical that initially they wanted the 321 in the 50th. But at the 7000 unit mark probably ended in a u-turn.

The 861 and 1861 was produced as a cheaper and easier to produce movement.

So a volume production run probably isn’t achievable for the 321 of 7000 units and would therefore cut into profit margins. So the new 3861 can be mass produced and be the base movement going forward and will command a higher ticket price pushing the speedmaster revenue up.

Putting a 321 into the gold watch would potentially hurt sales and create a negative view on the steel/gold piece.

So I suspect there will be an LE and thus modern copy of the moonwatch sometime this year. Limited to 1969 pieces which would make sense if that is roughly the number of units possible.

LE with 1861 is 4.5-5k gbp.

3861 master chrono is probably 5.5k in steel
7k in steel gold (50th)

I therefore assume the extra complexity of the 321 would put a steel watch around the 7-8k mark

Any more and you may just be better buying vintage
 
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Hello Everyone,

*** insert generic sentence about first post- long time lurker***

I have been eyeing the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch for quite some time now. I am prepared to buy one. I am not too picky on how close I can get to original in regards to movement and crystal but I do prefer the look of the standard moonwatch ( i.e. .005 ) I am currently in Japan on work and will be here for a few more months and I have sourced a couple places where the Moonwatch can be purchased for a significantly lower price then back in the states from an OB, AD, and even private sellers. I have waited until I am here to buy it for that specific reason.

Now here is my slight dilemma. With the recent price increases and release/talk of new movements I am wondering if waiting would be a wiser choice. Is it the general consensus that Omega will be replacing the movement in their standard moonwatch? Once the rerun of 321 is on the streets what will happen to the 1861? Will that be discontinued for something newer? And if so, would we expect a large price increase of the moonwatch? I wouldn't want to purchase a new .005 and then have it be outdated in a few months for something better. I do expect people to tell me that it is ultimately my choice and preference and I have to decide which watch I want. I understand that. However, an informed decision is best. What do the kind folks on OmegaForums think? Pick up the .005 for an outstanding price and enjoy my quality watch or wait for who knows how long and get a revamped version of the Moonwatch?

Thank you for your input.

V/r,
Carter
 
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From my understanding / discussion with AD the 321 will be very limited and very expensive. Only precious metal varieties. Think gold and platinum. Be prepared to spend 50-100k for this watch.

This is not something to rival the 3861 and it does not impact the "value" of Apollo 11 50th. Reminiscent of the De Ville Central Tourbillon.
 
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Hello Everyone,

*** insert generic sentence about first post- long time lurker***

I have been eyeing the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch for quite some time now. I am prepared to buy one. I am not too picky on how close I can get to original in regards to movement and crystal but I do prefer the look of the standard moonwatch ( i.e. .005 ) I am currently in Japan on work and will be here for a few more months and I have sourced a couple places where the Moonwatch can be purchased for a significantly lower price then back in the states from an OB, AD, and even private sellers. I have waited until I am here to buy it for that specific reason.

Now here is my slight dilemma. With the recent price increases and release/talk of new movements I am wondering if waiting would be a wiser choice. Is it the general consensus that Omega will be replacing the movement in their standard moonwatch? Once the rerun of 321 is on the streets what will happen to the 1861? Will that be discontinued for something newer? And if so, would we expect a large price increase of the moonwatch? I wouldn't want to purchase a new .005 and then have it be outdated in a few months for something better. I do expect people to tell me that it is ultimately my choice and preference and I have to decide which watch I want. I understand that. However, an informed decision is best. What do the kind folks on OmegaForums think? Pick up the .005 for an outstanding price and enjoy my quality watch or wait for who knows how long and get a revamped version of the Moonwatch?

Thank you for your input.

V/r,
Carter
Hi,
I tend to think that the current 1861 will discontinued around next year, thus the new model (3861) will have an increase in price. The 3861 will be a co-axial (metas) thus the most likely route of servicing will be with Omega directly. A 1861 can be serviced by a good independent watchmaker. Most on the forum would service their watches by the later due to cost and keeping originality. Again my personal opinion, the gain of the 3861 over the 1861 will marginal for us mere mortals. I am not too bothered over a gain or loss of a couple of seconds a day or it will survive an EMP blast. With regular servicing a watch will last for a significant length of time, the first 861’s are still running 50 years on.
Visually (externally) there will be very little difference (if any) between the two. I currently have 1861 on order as I want to have one of the last 1861’s.
The purchase of a luxury watch is a very personal thing, if you are going to keep it for a significant length of time then you must happy with your purchase. Where as when you buy a luxury car you tend to replace every three to five years, so you get the newest model.
Edited:
 
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Hello Everyone,

*** insert generic sentence about first post- long time lurker***

I have been eyeing the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch for quite some time now. I am prepared to buy one. I am not too picky on how close I can get to original in regards to movement and crystal but I do prefer the look of the standard moonwatch ( i.e. .005 ) I am currently in Japan on work and will be here for a few more months and I have sourced a couple places where the Moonwatch can be purchased for a significantly lower price then back in the states from an OB, AD, and even private sellers. I have waited until I am here to buy it for that specific reason.

Now here is my slight dilemma. With the recent price increases and release/talk of new movements I am wondering if waiting would be a wiser choice. Is it the general consensus that Omega will be replacing the movement in their standard moonwatch? Once the rerun of 321 is on the streets what will happen to the 1861? Will that be discontinued for something newer? And if so, would we expect a large price increase of the moonwatch? I wouldn't want to purchase a new .005 and then have it be outdated in a few months for something better. I do expect people to tell me that it is ultimately my choice and preference and I have to decide which watch I want. I understand that. However, an informed decision is best. What do the kind folks on OmegaForums think? Pick up the .005 for an outstanding price and enjoy my quality watch or wait for who knows how long and get a revamped version of the Moonwatch?

Thank you for your input.

V/r,
Carter

Welcome to the forum.

I say get both, then make up your mind based on the day to day realities of living with both.
You may find the .005 punching above it's weight and it will endear itself to you more.

There's too many variables with regard to retail pricing of both models and balanced off against used prices. Only time will tell.
 
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From my understanding / discussion with AD the 321 will be very limited and very expensive. Only precious metal varieties. Think gold and platinum. Be prepared to spend 50-100k for this watch.

This is not something to rival the 3861 and it does not impact the "value" of Apollo 11 50th. Reminiscent of the De Ville Central Tourbillon.

Has anyone heard of a secret 50th Anniversary in steel with a 321 movement about to come out?